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16HP Kohler no power


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While mowing today my 916H would almost die on every patch of grass that was just a little thick. I immediately disengaged the pto and the tractor would still sputter. I had to back all the way off the throttle to get it to run smooth again. When running it back up, the engine smoked and sputtered for a couple seconds then ran fine - until the next patch of thick grass. The thickness of the grass has not been a problem before. I have mowed it dozens of times before without trouble. It got so bad it would hardly mow. There are no problems with the deck. I engaged the pto several times in the driveway without loss of power. What is going on here? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Brent
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FiremanRon
Brent I will throw a few things your way and see what others have to say after. How is your air cleaner-dirty-clean?? What about the fuel filter-clean-dirty?? Now what about water in the gas?? How does the engine start whether it be cold or hot?? Also does the engine run better when you first start it like when the engine is cold and then get worse the longer the engine runs or is the problem the same whether it is hot or cold?? Did you just get gas for the tractor and it started acting up?? Just a few questions so that we all have more to go by even if they seem like "dumb" ones. Please get back with us or maybe someone else can give you a clue with the enformation you gave. Thanks, >>->happyjack<-,,
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jas_57032
I had troubles with my 10 HP Kohler a few years ago and found that the valves needed adjustment.
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I had the same trouble and eventually traced it to the bevel gear box which I am rebuilding. That was the only thing still connected to the engine while it waqs acting up. Phil
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dlcentral
It could be one of many things as Jack stated.I would say ignition,head gasket problems.16's are known to cook head gasks. on occasion.Listen for a chirping sound when increasing eng. speed.Also did you see if the airflow over the head was plugged with a mouse nest or grass debris ?? dlc
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Brent, my 12 horse Kohler is doing the same thing. After going through the carb and new fuel lines, I put a new coil on and it ran longer so I replaced the condenser too. Dont know if that cured it yet or not. If you buy parts, try NAPA, a lot cheaper. I have ran Briggs engines all my life, never had this kind of problem, this is my first and only Kohler, hopefully my last!
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I am now leaning toward the head gasget like dlc suggest. With the engine running just above idle take and spray WD-40 around the head where it meets the engine block and see if the engine rpm changes but make sure you don't spray it where the air cleaner can suck it in. If the head gasget is bad the WD-40 will be sucked in where the head gasget is bad if it is. The knocking noise could be the head gasget leaking and it can if bad make some weard sounds like you are discribing in some cases. Sense you ruled out the simple things you now have a better chance of hopefully finding the problem. I don't think its valves or the engine wouldn't of started running the way it is so quick at least the way it sounds. This is all my opinion and I hope others can add or correct me. Hopefully its the head gasget and you might just be lucky "hopefully" Good Luck, >>->happyjack<-<<
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Hi, If this knock is loud and only when really hot on a load, it may be pre-ignition.[PING in a car] I have had to fix several older kohler 16s, though none in the last 2 or 3 years because of this. We just cut about .030 out of the top of the chamber. It was always with the early 16s and when the gas went to "hell". Trying a different brand of gas may afect this problem A lean mixture will contribute to this, as will early timing. Kohlers and Briggs get out of time when the lobe on the camshaft wears where the point plunger rides. On a Kohler you can compensate by setting the points using a timing light and adjusting the points so they fire on the S mark on the flywheel. On the Briggs you have to adjust them by going in and out till it you can hear it just STARTS to degrade the running then set it about 1/2 way between. If it runs OK they should be set at the required gap. Use this method if the cam is worn and it doesn't run right with normal gap. I have also had briggs that would not idle that the main brgs had so much wear that the spark was intermittant from the air gap change to the coil. I would look at the timing and the carb first. If the carb is too lean, you nmight have some dirt in a passage. When it is running wide open can you set the main jet so it degrades both lean and rich, then set it where it runs the best coming out to the point where it is just ready to degrade, It should always be on the rich side of peak performance, not so rich you can tell it. Watching the throttle shaft for the sdeadiest point will help you get there. Good luuck, AL
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dlcentral
I have eliminated the air and fuel filters, gas and mouse nests as possible causes. The problem started last week when I was nearly finished mowing. I attributed it to too thick of grass and forgot about it until yesterday. It starts and runs fine except under load. I put the deck on my 3416H and finished mowing with it so the deck is not the problem. Just to make sure I tried pulling around a very large water filled roller, which I also have done numerous other times, and after about 5 min. from a cold start, it started the problem again. The only difference was that I think it was knocking when it started to die. Out of fear, I have not tried to continually duplicate the problem, I just put her away and came here. It did get worse yesterday the longer the engine ran, but it doesn't take long to start acting up from a cold start. Now what? That knock sure didn't sound good, but can't here it at all at idle, and only faintly- unless I'm imagining it - at full throttle, except when it is about to die. Then it is loud. ???
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