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Points/Condensor Wiring of a B&S 23D


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Does anyone know where to find the diagrams on how to hook up the points and condensor on a B&S 23D which is out of a 101 Simplicity? Below is an initial diagram of what I envision, but I have some pieces missing. Note, I am getting a spark across my points and I am thinking that might be due to the condensor being bad, but it could be because I am not sure how this is to be wired. I am also guessing that this engine has the points normally closed and opens them when a spark should occur. Thank you in advance for any help.

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The points are normally open. Being operated by the camshaft, the operate only on the compression stroke. They close at roughly 25 degrees BTDC, then open to to create spark. Are you trying to wire for the standard magneto ignition or converting to battery ignition? Pat
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PatRarick, I am trying to restore the original ignition at this point. I need to order the manual on these older engines, for now I only have the easily found manual on the more modern B&S engines. I was hoping to get this machine running in the next day or two using what I have. Thanks, tomorrow in bright day light I'll work at getting this running.
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ignition switch is normally used to ground out the points to stop the spark on 23D's connenting on an insulted piece on the points cover.
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Ok, that explains better what I am missing. Thanks! I'm going to update the diagram, let me know if I am closer to having this correct.
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The primary wire from the engine armature (coil), goes to the points. Condenser connects to the same spot, as does the ignition switch ground wire. There is supposed to be a small insulator board, with a terminal screw, about 3/4" X 1". This mounts to the top of the breaker cover, attached by the upper breaker cover screw. A short wire is attached to the points/condenser terminal. This wire, the armature primary wire, and ignition ground wire all connect to the terminal on the insulator board. The insulator board is not required. It is just a more convenient connection for the armature primary wire and the ignition ground wire. You need to ground this ignition to cut it off. You will destroy the armature if you connect power to the points. The secondary (spark plug wire) is self explanatory. Pat
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PatRarick, thanks I think I can fix the diagram based on what you explained. The diagram above may be correct, but I am going to add some of your comments. It's midnight over here and I'll pick this up tomorrow. One last question, should I be getting a spark on the points? Or is that saying my condensor is bad? So to summarize all the wires really get connected at the one connection on the condensor screw; the insulator board (which I can make but was broken) is only a easy place to connect the engine to the external connections so the points cover doesn't need to be opened when connecting the ignition wire. Again thanks.
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You didn't mention whether or not you are cranking the engine when you have spark in the points. With the magneto ignition system, you will have spark in the points only when the engine is cranking and the ignition switch is open ("on" position). Spark is generated as the flywheel magnet passes the armature. With a battery ignition system, you will have spark at the points with the ignition switch closed (on position), but the engine does not have to be cranking. If you have spark in the points on a magneto engine that is NOT cranking, chances are that you have wired 12 volts to the ignition ground terminal and you may have fried the coil. I should also point out that a magneto ignition switch is closed in the "off" position, as you need to ground the points to kill the ignition. A battery igntion switch is OPEN in the "off" position, as you need to cut battery power to kill the ignition. Pat
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Maynard & PatRarick thank you. I went out and gapped the points to 0.020 and no more spark at the points. Does that tell me the magneto/coil is OK or is there a way to test the coil? I am not getting a spark at the plug and I tried two plugs.
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Mike Read Pats replies again and if you don't understand it read it again. Don't read into it what isn't there. He explains it better than any manual.
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Pat, RE: 8:09 post(I was typing the other post at the same time). I was seeing the spark as I was cranking the engine. The wiring is as I received the tractor and I'm tracing it out and looking for problems. I don't believe the battery was ever connected to the points/coil. I've tested that the points ground when they are closed without the condensor or coil hooked up. I've gapped both the points and plug (Champion J8C) to 0.020" (is that the right spark plug and gap for this engine?). I see there is a resistance across the coil between the spark plug and the primary wire telling me the coil does not have an open. I've temporarily taken out the ignition switch so that I can eliminate that as a problem (I also saw it had resistance and did not give a good closing/short). I've reconnected this and saw no spark in either the points or the plug. Originally I dialed the points until I saw a spark, but I was not sure that was correct. Now again, there are no sparks across the points. Also when I was measuring the resistance at the points connection screw, I was having trouble determining that the points were working correctly.
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