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Condensor Question


LesH

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I have a Briggs model 23D on an AC B10. Will the engine run without a condensor hooked up?? Also, what would the part numbers be that I would need?? The prefereed plug p/n is?? Thanks.
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I would say it would not run without the condenser because it would not have as much of a spark. I run Champion J8C plugs in my B/S. Parts numbers should be on the B/S website. You can view a PDF and get most of the parts numbers for that engine that you need.
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Below is a list of parts I received from a member in one of these posts: http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30250&SearchTerms=23d http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=29869&SearchTerms=23d http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=29470&SearchTerms=23d http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=29803&SearchTerms=23d 68768 - Plunger seal - $3.15 93516 - seal retainer - $1.10 221873 - seal retainer - $2.55 690295 - screw (need 2, lockwashers are attached to screw) - $2.05 each 692913 - points cover gasket - $1.40 690277 - lock washer, points cover screw (need 2) - $1.10 each 692836 - screw, points cover (need 2) - $1.10 each 211327 - points cover - $8.72 298060 - condenser - $6.15 298185 - points - $19.70 66895 - insulator - $1.15 90200 - screw - $1.15 691077 - lockwasher (need 2) - $1.10 691612 - nut - $1.45
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My understanding is the condenser is partially there to prevent severe arcing of the points under control.
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Some engines will run without a condenser, but they usually will not run smoothly. The condenser is used to help slow down the burning of the points. It also helps to stabilize the arc across the points and keep it consistent. Most any automotive condenser will also work. I have wired them on the outside or on the coil in an emergency, when I can't get to a parts store and need the machine. The condenser is usually in the .15 - .25 ufd range.
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Sorry Guys, I have to interject here. The typical range for a Kettering Ignition system condenser value should be in the 0.015uF to 0.030uF range, and not 1.5-2.5uF. If the condenser were that previous range, it would be 2" in diameter and 3" long! See the link below for some further info. http://www.fluke.com/Application_Notes/ElectricalPower/B0271b_u.pdf Tom(PK)
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Sorry! Tom, you are correct. I changed my post. I had the decimal point in the wrong place. This is what happens when an ME talks from memory of what he once knew, back before electronic ignitions were invented. Worked with some EEs about twenty years ago and developed a method of measuring the ignition of an automobile to determine the exact value of a capacitor that would neutralize the spark. I had one set of points and condenser that lasted nearly 30,000 miles, when you were supposed to replace them at 3000.
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A condenser is easy to figure out if you look at your wiring for ignition like plumbing. The wire/s are the pipes and the current is the water flow That leaves the points equiling a shut off valve. But the trouble with points is that the valve is either wide open or closed and there is little or no time between the 2 states . Ok, Points closed and current flows ( valve open ) Andmost of us know what happens if you go from wide open water to shut off very fast... You get a water hammer. This is becasue the water, once it starts moving has mass in motion and don't want to stop. And if the valve isn't stron enough, the hammer will blow the valve off the end of the pipe. Ok, Its the same with the current in your ignition system. It starts moving and then the points open. The current don't want to stop and "Pressure" builds up till the current jumps the gap of the points. So how can you cure a water hammer ? Lets say you have a water hose and your washing your car. But every time you let off on the handle of the sprayer your using it pops off the end of the hose.. One way to fix this problem would be to put a "Y" on the end of the hose, hook the sprayer to one side and a ballon on the other. The ballon has to be strong enough that it don't inflate when you turn the water on slowly, But when you use the spray and let off quickly The extra pressure swells the ballon and keeps the extra pressure from popping the sprayer off the hose. Thats an over simple view of what a condenser does.. If you use to strong a condenser, the current will be to weak.. If the condenser goes bad, all the water/current goes out through it/ to ground. If you have a condenser thats to weak, the current arcs across the points and the engine will miss. So, to answer the question, Most engines will run with out a condenser but will pop and miss as the current jumps the gap.
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I've been thinking about putting a 1 farad cap on my 716H sometime. Bet it'd run like an electric motor then. [this has been a joke]
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