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Tacey

Gasoline Cap Causing Stalling..A Survey

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Tacey
I'm wondering how many of us have experienced a plugged gas cap causing a tractor to quit running. This can be for any year or model of tractor. I'm currently trying to resolve a 'stalling tractor' problem. Before I replace the gas cap, I wondered if this was a common problem. Thanks. Tacey

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Kent
I've had this problem on my Big Ten... Additionally, I've had problems trying to use aftermarket clear fuel filters on both the Big Ten and HB-216... they're too restrictive and will starve the engine. I went back to the red and black "lawnmower" type, and haven't had any more problems.

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nrallen
I have had this happen also. When the plastic on the top of the cap got broken I put a piece of duct tape on it to keep snow out while I was blowing snow. and guess what, it doesn't run very long on a full tank with the vent plugged. What was I thinking!! Neil

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Kent
My Big Ten vapor-locked in the middle of a tractor parade at the Orange MA show a couple years ago. I later determined it was the fuel filter.... I think Lady Ann, Maynard's missus, captured that embarassing Kodak moment....

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alanscott
Vapor lock is most common in the spring due to the way the refineries manufacture the gasoline. During the winter months, the RVP (Reed Vapor Pressure) is higher to allow better atomization of the fuel at lower temps. The RVP drops in the summer to help prevent needless evaporation. If your caught with a tank of high RVP when the temp gets higher, that's when vapor lock will most likely become an issue. You can cut your winter stock with around 1-3% #2 diesel fuel to drop the RVP for use in higher temps. Old hot rodders trick, save winter fuel for use in the middle of the summer. If you can run it without vapor locking, the higher atomization rate will create a better flame front in the cylinder, and crank out more horse power.

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Tacey
Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm gonna spring for a new cap today. If that fails to correct the problem, I guess I'll hafta take the tractor to the dealer ([:0]) to fix it. This problem is on my '97 Landlord. It started acting up last fall, and I gave up trying to fix it out of frustration. Besides, my (relatively) old Broadmoor, was able to snowplow the driveway all winter, without a peep of trouble. It's funny how that old Broadmoor with the primitive air-cooled Briggs single, is more reliable than the new-fangled Kawasaki liquid-cooled twin. The newer Landlord does an awesome job when running right, but I've mostly used it as a towel rack to air-out the workrags after wiping off the "old faithful" Broadmoor. Tacey

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Tacey
quote:
Originally posted by UCD
THe cheap and simple thing to do if you think it is the cap is to remove it and run the tractor to see if you still have the problem.
I tried that. Didn't seem to make any difference. I replaced a coil and plug caps. I changed the fuel filter. I tested the fuel pump (squirts like a firehose). The puzzling thing is that the engine runs like a top for 5 to 10 minutes, then just dies out. If I jiggle with the choke, I can keep it running long enuf to get back into the garage. I'm trying the new cap as a last resort before loading the tractor onto the truck for a ride to the dealer. Tacey

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TomSchmit
Sounds like it could be a bad ignition coil. At least 2 times I have had the problem where it malfuntions after getting hot (After running a few minutes). Tacey knows a good thing (Broadmoor) when he sees it! Tom

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BigSix
As mentioned, failing coils can fail after they get warmed up, be they on cars, tractors or whatever else has them in a location that gets hot. Hey--note the color of the spark, when engine is cold, in the shade. Should be blue and fat. Run it and endeavor to have it die in the same lighting conditions as when you first checked the spark. Now check it and see if it's still blue and fat, or if it's pink/red/yellow, and thin, thus indicating a weaker spark. To me, this would indicate a coil failing when hot. Just thought this test up, so perhaps someone with real knowledge could comment? I don't think it's fuel related, by here's something on gas cap venting: my Honda 300 4-Trax will run a good 40 minutes with the tank cap vent in the "Off" position, before stopping like a stone. I had the unbelievable good fortune (while deep behind "enemy lines"--riding where I shouldn't have been) to have a cycle tech come walking up the road, in the middle of nowhere. He solved my problem and I skedaddled home, never to forget. But if leaving the cap off didn't fix it, and the spark isn't changing appearance when hot, have you tried bypassing whatever fuel filter you may have? How about a clogged tank screen/filter? Could try back flushing it with spray carb or brake cleaner (but make sure you don't "melt" it) if you can remove the screen. Let us know. Peter Peter

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Charlieson
I agree with Big Six. Coils will break down after they get hot. Ive seen spark plugs do the same thing. Runs great till engine warms up then nothing. Let it cool down and starts right back up.

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Allis_B12
Vapor lock is the problem Tacey is describing, right? If not, I thought it was when the tank was nearly full, poorly vented, and gas vapors would be locked inside the tank. That's what I meant. Perhaps I used a technical term where I shouldn't have.:o)

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D-17_Dave
Sounds to me if you can make it run on by fidaling with the choke, you may have a piece of trash blocking the hole inside the carb. elbow where the gas passage turns to a small hole to go to the seat for the float. Moer than one time I've had old gas line or something clog this up. When you turn the engine off it may let go and pass fuel, or only pass a small amount. Thereby allowing the engine to crank and run good till the bowl runs out of fuel. just another thing to go wrong.

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Tacey
I dropped it off at the dealer today. I tried about everything to get it going, but with the grass starting to grow, I don't want to fool with it anymore. I'm just glad to have a good dealer nearby.I will let y'all know what they come up with. The fellow at the dealership had mentioned a crimped fuel line had caused the described problem on another machine not long ago. He admitted it was an unusual problem. Thanks for all the feedback. Tacey

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Tacey
Well I got it back today. It seems there was dirt plugging a jet on the carb. I couldn't try it out 'cause we were getting rain and snow this afternoon. It seemed to run good, though. BTW, is there any set # of hours of labor needed to remove, dis-assemble, clean, and re-install a Kawasaki carb? No parts were replaced. Tacey

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andy gartner
Tacey For future reference, Al Eden, I think, has a little, 'carb primer' quick-tune-up article here at the site. Got me up and running, when it was a clogged jet problem. A

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