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Electric Lift Failure


Kokomo

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Two months ago I bought a NOS Electric Lift Kit, part #1690392 (202.50 plus shipping) and it worked very well about a dozen or so times I tried it in the garage. There is no doubt in my mind that this lift was new. I decided to roto-till today with this tractor, a 7117H and everything worked just fine for about 10ft. I made several up and down adjustments when I appeared to hit something and then the lift would not come up. Several teeth had worn off of the plastic/fiber gear, part #1704924. The grease in the housing had hardened somewhat and was all to one side and none was on the gears; however, I do not think this was the problem as the rest of the teeth on the affected gear were ok. Dutch’s post of 4/17/04 suggests this part is still available for about 15 dollars. However, I assume that there is likely another problem that caused this failure. I will try to order the part next week. Can someone tell me if there is something I could have done to cause this problem? The linkages all seem free and have full motion as far as I can tell. Is it possible the clutch assembly is froze? It is my understanding that these units are very dependable and long lasting; 10ft is not to good, if would take a lot of gears to do a whole garden. HELP PLEASE Bob in Kokomo
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The slip clutch on the elec. lift makes an loud clicking sound when the cyl. bottoms out at the end of the stoke. If you heard that anytime during your useage it is'nt stuck. If however you have never heard this then the clutch may indeed be stuck and be the cause of the sheared teeth problem. Ive never seen a clutch stick ad wouldn't thinkl it would.
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Does the linkage to your rear lift use a cable or a rod. If its a rod, its my understanding with elictric lift it has be slotted, so the attachment can raise up freely, not being held down by the lift. If you have a solid connection, and your tiller caught something wantting to make jump outta the ground, pretty sure that would take the gears out, likely the weakest link in the system.
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I have the slip clutch gears on hand if yours has failed and one of the nylon gears i replaced with a steel one.
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quote:
Originally posted by Kokomo
Two months ago I bought a NOS Electric Lift Kit, part #1690392 (202.50 plus shipping) and it worked very well about a dozen or so times I tried it in the garage. There is no doubt in my mind that this lift was new. I decided to roto-till today with this tractor, a 7117H and everything worked just fine for about 10ft. I made several up and down adjustments when I appeared to hit something and then the lift would not come up. Several teeth had worn off of the plastic/fiber gear, part #1704924. The grease in the housing had hardened somewhat and was all to one side and none was on the gears; however, I do not think this was the problem as the rest of the teeth on the affected gear were ok. Dutch’s post of 4/17/04 suggests this part is still available for about 15 dollars. However, I assume that there is likely another problem that caused this failure. I will try to order the part next week. Can someone tell me if there is something I could have done to cause this problem? The linkages all seem free and have full motion as far as I can tell. Is it possible the clutch assembly is froze? It is my understanding that these units are very dependable and long lasting; 10ft is not to good, if would take a lot of gears to do a whole garden.
I don't recall making that post. Could be my recurring CRS affliction. Anyway, I'm not that familiar with the workings of the electric lifts. I have a couple but they've never given me any touble. I assume you have this mounted on a 700/7100 series with cable lift. If you have a rod lift that can cause a problem (like Marty stated). Is the clutch making a "clicking" sound when the lift is full up or full down? That "clicking" sound is to prevent over working the lift and makes it fairly bullet proof. If you don't hear that "clicking" sound that could be the problem. I assume you have a 36" tiller. If you have a 38" tiller, special gears are/were available for the lift due to the extremely heavy weight of the 38" tiller. All I can suggest is to replace the damaged gear(s) and test the travel and clutch before using it again.
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Dutch, This is the topic address of where I found your post about electric lift parts. Something is strange as the day of the post has been changing to the current day. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=5960&SearchTerms=electric,lift,gear Reply author: dutch Replied on: 04/20/2004 15:54:48 Message: According to my Simplicity parts book, there are 2 gears listed. 1) Gear assy. #1704924 (from the motor) still available about $15. 2) Output gear & slip clutch #1704925 (driven by above) still available about $120 The ball screw assy. (#1664759) is no longer available. Don't know if this is a Saginaw, or if more than one type electric lift was used. Check with your Simplicity dealer. Bob
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According to my info part# 1704924 GEAR ASMY-INTERM MSRP $14.40 was still available as of 11/2003. Part# 1704295 OUTPUT GEAR & SLIP CLUTCH was supperceeded to part# 1704922 ACTUATOR ASMY-PW MSRP $554.28 (complete)
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I did not heard the clicking sound that the clutch is supposed to make; therefore I assume that the clutch must be stuck. I did not hear that sound at the end of the extension stroke or at the end of the retraction stroke. At age 56 I some hearing loss, 20 percent loss in one ear and 40 percent loss in the other. However, I should have heard a distinct sound as I remember listening for anything unusual when I first installed the lift. The linkage to my rear lift is a cable, assume that this is the original setup on a 7117, produced in 1979/80. The tiller that I was using is model #990684, and measures 37 and 3/4 inches outside to outside. I assume that this is a 36-inch tiller. I am not sure how to test the clutch, other than install a new plastic gear and take the chance of ruining it also. I don’t think I have a way of applying 750 lbs. of pressure to the clutch, I think this is the load limit of my lift. Does anyone have any thoughts on freeing the slip clutch gear, part #1704925? I was thinking of either soaking or spraying penetrating oil on the slip clutch gear. If the clutch face is metal I would not think it would damage the surface of the clutch. The numbers for the lift gears that I have are: #1704924 for the plastic gear and #1704925 for the slip clutch gear. Does anyone have the numbers for the conversion to the special gears that Dutch mentioned? I assume that the special gears would take twice as long to move through the cycle, but lift 1500 lbs. if I remember right. RedbarnRick, I’m interested in the gears that you have, I assume that these gears are part #1704925. Are these the ones that were an e-bay this month? Do you have the plastic gears, part #1704924, or any of the metal replacements that you mentioned? I would have to think about the metal gears, as I assume they would work fine unless the slip clutch failed, this must be why the plastic gear was designed. What price are you wanting for your gears and are they new? Bob in Kokomo
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Robert Are you sure of the MFG# 990684 for your tiller. All of my info says 990684 is a front light kit. Part #1704924 is still available. Part# 1704925 is NLA and supereeded to Part# 1704922

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UCD, I checked the number on my tiller it is #990694, which I believe to be a 36 inch tiller and in the weight range of the electric lift. Do you agree? Thank you for the diagrams defining the part numbers. I need advice on getting the slip clutch gear out of the unit. I just tried again to remove it and it would not come out. I took out the CAPSCREW, part #1605773 and still no luck. My diagram shows that PIN, drive, part #1605778 should be behind the CAPSCREW; however, I do not see this part. I looked in the hole where the CAPSCREW was, with a flashlight and all I can see is a shaft that is perpendicular to the hole. Can anyone help? Bob in Kokomo
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I looked again at the CAPSCREW hole and I assume that the PIN is pressed into the lift housing. Bob in Kokomo
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