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990503 - 36" Tiller - Belt Stop for tractor?

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Guest
Does anyone know what other parts goes with the "BJ 167032 STOP BELT 188WI"? (Jacks has this for $1.22), but the picture in the operators manual does not show BJ or the other capscrew and such other needed parts. It does explain to install this in the "Attaching Tiller to Tractor" section of the manual. I've recently painted, fixed the grease fitting and reassembled this tiller. I'd like to get the belt to stop scratching up the finish of the tiller and it would be nice to stop this tiller as I am driving around.

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UCD
The Item # is BE Part# 167032 Nothing else comes with it just the Beltstop/guide. The attaching parts are a common bolt & nut and might all ready be a part of tractor. THE 188 = diameter WI = wire = .188" wire

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Guest
Maynard, Thank you. Are you reading into this from experience or is your copy of the manual different? My copy (the PDF from Simplicity) lists this as BJ and BE is a lock washer. I couldn't find BE either on this photo, so I assumed this photo was missing some parts. I am going to try a 106707 until I can get the right part with some washers. Is proper installation of this to gently rub on the belt under load or be no where in contact under load and when set free to touch the belt stop?

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Guest
BTW: The 106707 is a Belt guide for the front PTO. It is also a 0.188" Wire. Thanks for all this info!

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Kent
Typical belt stop clearances are between 1/16" and 1/8" under load. You don't want them to rub, but you don't want them too far away either, or they won't serve their intended function...

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Guest
It looks like BE should mount in the picture as shown below. Though I would think this should actually be below the pulley on the outside of the belt. This photo looks like it would be on the inside of the belt: (comments?)

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UCD
Don't Know what to tell you. I just downloaded the parts manual for the 990503 tiller and it is the same diagram as the one I posted above. BE is just the Item identification/reference letters in the diagram. Part# 167032 is the correct part#. It is also a belt stop/guide for the tiller PTO. This belt stop is used on 30 different MFG#s. As far as nuts bolts and washers they are common hardware store items and are shown in the diagrams for reference only. The dealer will take them out of his bolt bins.

These diagrams and instructions are out of the same PDF file you have. If you look at the diagram it is at the bottom of the pulley and outside of the belt The reference letters in the Parts# list are incorrect another Simplicity mistake

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Guest
I was not able to get a 106707 Belt stop to fit right, so I'll have to wait to get the correct one (it was too close or too far). Does it seem reasonable that a belt can be stretched out or can my clutch spring be too worn out? The instruction "The tension should be correct when there is about 1/4" clearance between the collar and the bracket of the rod guide assembly when the tiller clutch lever is engaged." was not operating correctly. The tiller was not keeping power like it had been until I tightened and made this about 3/4". I am going to order a new belt to have on hand and compare the size. I am trying to get the idler arm pulley "D - 106206" to stop dragging on the tiller housing. Without the belt stop this just spins and sparks scratching off the paint.

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Kent
Michael, Not only do belts stretch a little (these Simplicity belts don't stretch as bad as automotive belts because they have many more cords in them) but the wear on the edges of the belt from contacting the pulley allows them to ride down in the pulleys much farther -- producing the same effect as would a longer belt. I just replaced the drive belt on my Big Ten over the weekend because it was worn so bad that it had started slipping....

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Guest
Kent, thanks good tip. One other thing, I only see one hole which makes sense for a belt stop, though after I get the right one I may stand corrected, anyway does it make sense that an owner when changing implements might have to switch the mid-PTO belt stop to the rear-PTO/tiller idler arm belt stop? The only hole which makes sense is where the mid-PTO belt stop goes. That is a slot so that you can adjust the belt stop. (Kent keep the Big Ten)

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Kent
Typically, belt stops are not adjusted with slots. They are L shaped, and you simply rotate them on the mounting bolt to adjust the distance they clear the belt. In your picture above, the belt stop is below and outside the belt. It likely bolts on down below the pulley, but by rotating the L-shaped belt stop on that bolt, the "finger" that sticks out is moved back farther toward the rear of the tractor.

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Guest
Ok... Persistance=Success. I found another hole covered over with grease about 4" back low. I put the 106707 front PTO pulley guides/belt stops in this hole built out with an extra nut. This perfectly aligned about 1/2" behind the pulley. I increased the tension on the belt so it ran straighter and then adjusted the belt stop about 1/8" off the belt when under tension/load. Started the tractor up, no load... wha-la no Tiller movement. The belt wanted to still go a little, tighted and adjusted some more... Perfect. The only problem is I still need to grind the "D - Pulley" into the tiller cover for about 1 second to stop the tiller. Perhaps if I stop it as I am still in dirt, that will prevent much of the grinding. Anyways, I am 98% where I wanted to be. I am just going to be curious what the proper belt stop will look like; I can't see it doing any better. Thanks. Note: The only remaining problem is this 3012 variable speed drive is really wacked. So the goal is to get another tractor ready to accept this tiller and then it's going to be tear down city.

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Guest
If anyone who has this model tiller can confirm they don't have to grind that pulley ("D") into the shroud (sp?), I'd like to know I'm not wasting my time trying to stop that.

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KenK
I just worked on a HB212 with a 36"tiller at work for a customer that was doing the same thing yours was.I adjusted the belt stop and it cured it.The pulley on the shroud grinds a little before it stops as does the one on my HB-112 at home.The only way that I can see around the problem,would be to try a little longer belt.You would have to adjust the engagement tighter.That way when disengaged that pulley should be farther from the shroud.Hope this makes sense,I can see it plain as day in my head,but when I try to explain it might be confusing.

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Guest
KenK, Maynard, and everyone else; thanks for the help... Funny thing, today I demonstrated my tiller to my friend who's restoring his tiller and ugh... the clutch stopped working after the demo. Hopefully the correct belt stop and some persistance, I'll get this resolved once and for all.

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