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Can anyone figure out this problem?????


deerhunter

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16hp briggs on a 7116. It did not want to idle especially at high RPM. I rebuit carb and re installed, and had the samE probleM. I then removed the newly installed points & condensor and cleaned the contact points and it started and ran fine. It will run fine for a short period and then begin missing after about 5 to 10 minuets of mowing. It seems to start the missing when going up a hill. Going up hill does have a direct effect on it but not until it warms up. I know I have some type of electrical problem that is heat related, or a fuel problem related to gravity, but it's driving me nuts and I cant get it. I've also replaced the plug. Could it be the magneto? Could I possibly rigg up the coil from off of my 716H with kohler to eliminate the magneto? ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED, I'M CLOSE TO TAKING IT TO A DEALER, PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!
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Wow lots of possibilities. I want to say that it is a heat related problem from what you describe. I would start playing the game of replacing parts till its fixxed. It can be expensive but it eliminates problems as you go along. I would replace, the points, spark plug, fuel line, fuel filter, check the cooling fins, check the flywheel key kinds of things first. Then start with the coil and work from there. Good luck, Ryan
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quote:
Originally posted by deerhunter
I then removed the newly installed points & condensor and cleaned the contact points and it started and ran fine.
You might have answered your own question. It is not unheard of for a new Set of points and or new condensor to be bad. I would change at least the condensor. The best thing would be to replace both with new. I once went though 3 new sets before I got an engine to run right.
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I've already went tru everything fuel related, I've eliminated & changed filter, blew out the lines. Is there any type of screen/filter in the bottom of the gas tank? I did blow air back thru into the tank and verything seemed fine. I have to agree with new electrical parts being bad, I've seen it many times here at work! I'll try new points!!
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My money says its the fuel.. Replace the filter And fuel lines. Clean the screen IN THE TANK.. ( This is redundant if you do have an inline filter and I most times remove them ) Any thing that may slow the flow of fuel. BTW, Are you sure you got the float level set correctly ? The key to the whole thing is the up-hill trouble. The ignition system don't care how its turned. ( unless there is a short ) Chances are that if you ran it at night and climbed a hill you would see the exhaust start to glow from the lean burn.... Good luck to you
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When was the last time you cleaned out your gas tank? Mine had a screened intake that would get plugged with junk from time to time until i cleaned it out!
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Check to see if the cooling fins on the engine are clogged up. You may be overheating the engine from lack of airflow.
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I levled then float by turning the top body of the carb upside down & measured side to side to ensure it was level. What's the best approach to cleaning the tank? As for the up hill problem, I agree with Marty's thinking, but it runs fine up hill at first, but once I run it for a while, (gets warm)the problem is more profound when going up hill. Thanks for all the input!!!
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sandyhillbill
when you are going up hill and it starts running bad have you tried turning around and going down hill to see if it straightens the problem out?
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It will run better going down hill than going up, but not as good as when I first start it. (if that makes sense!)
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If it is like my Model 19 it might be excess cam end thrust causing the point gap to change when going up hill or popping a wheelie. Al Eden put me on to this one. I solved the problem by going to an electronic ignition module and eliminating the points. Trying an ignition module is worth a shot. Good luck,
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Deerhunter, I had a similiar problem with my 7116 after I had rebuilt the engine. Ran rough, backfired throug the exhaust and carb. Almost like the timing was off. I removed the engine and chacked the timing of the cam/crank gears. They were right on. Re-installed the engine and it still wouldn't run right. By chance I happened to remove the kill wire that goes to the keyswtich and is located on the left (carb) side of the engine and it smoothed right out. The keyswitch was partially killing the spark! I'm not sure if the problem is the keyswitch or a result of the mouse nest I found under the dash by the keyswitch. I ran it this winter fine without the wire hooked up. I would hook it up to kill the engine. Might be the same problem, might not. Just wanted to share this. Stan
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Once the engine starts running poorly uphill, shut it off and check the fuel flow to the carb by pulling the fuel line. If there is none, you know the direction of the problem. When you go uphill, you are putting more load on the tractor and using more fuel. I know I would replace the condenser. I hate condenser problems. You can pull the kill wire at the engine to see if that might be part of the problem. Step by step, you can isolate until you find the source of consternation.
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I have also had great luck with this solid state ignition module from Stens part number 440-065. It is the only one that I have found that will work on the slow turning starter generator system.

nothing to set, install and forget. Cheap alternative to points and condensor.
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patrician12
The reason that you have trouble up hill is because that is when an igniton system is under the greatest load and breakdown because of the increased compression and fuel the plug must overcome.Without being there and knowing briggs motors are not fuel misers and tend to shoot alot of fuel I would say it is ignition.Check for the magnetism of the flywheel.It should pull a screwdriver towards it from 3/4 to 1/2 inch away.Weak magnet weak spark.
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