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Assembly and protecting Hydraulic lines

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Guest
I am assembling my 3112H and I am noticing the lift rod is too large in diameter to fit the cage bolts by the rod and reassemble the console/seat assembly. I am ending up scratching the paint in the reassembly and I can't get all the nuts in the frame. It just seems this machine is not going back together as well as I'd like. Has anyone else experienced this and do you have tips? One thing I'd like is a suggestion on how to protect the hydraulic line from rupturing because these are rubbing on the frame areas. Is there a shrink wrap or should I just use electrical tape or are lines easily made up somewhere? Anyone who has pictures of how things are run to get a 3112H smoothly moving all linkages, that would be a big help. Also a verification of how thick in diameter the lift rod should be, would be a help. Then again, that may cause me to start searching for the correct 37" lift rod. Otherwise this machine is 95% back together today. I still have a problem getting grease in the axle fittings..... that's the next challenge.

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goatfarmer
I would use heater hose,or similar,to protect hydraulic lines where they rub against the frame.Slice one lengthwise,wrap it around the hydro line,and secure with wire ties.

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ScottS
Here is rod diameter. 1/2 inch(poor mans caliper)

Here is the hose clamp that is on mine. I have seen these at the hydraulic shop that I buy parts from. It is attached to the bolt you see.

Here is a close up of the clevis for the lift rod.

As far as getting the nuts on inside the frame I have taken a piece of masking tape on the box end of the wrench and press the nut into the box end with the tape wrapping around the nut to hold it in the wrench.

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Kent
This picture may be of value, also. It's from when I was reassembling the HB, trying to stuff all that stuff in there... Note that I have an oversize, hardened 9/16" lift rod in it that John Scheele made me... I kept bending my 1/2" original one, and once bent, it bends again easily.... [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/images/var_hydro/full_tunnel_top.jpg[/img]

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Guest
Assume! These were all the problems I have been having. I didn't think to rotate the piston; that's too simple and I was trying to stay symetric. The hose idea is perfect. Didn't realize there was a clamp suppose to be there. And I have a half inch rod for my lift rod, so that says I am on target. Thank you all. Will rework and see what I get. Curious if cracks along my existing hydraulic lines are a big issue or is the outer rubber of the lines just the line protection; in any case wanted ideas to make sure the cracks don't get worse... the lines are not leaking and the lift is working 100% as I can imagine. Comments? Otherwise in a future post I might ask about some other tips on the hydraulics... I am finding it interesting working the hydrostat with the hydraulic lift when operating a dozer blade in dirt....

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Guest
Also, I am remembering that the hydraulic cylinder had the right bolt smooth and rounded... now I know why. It must have worn against the drive shaft. I was asking in a previous post if they used special bolts. It seemed strange to me.

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Kent
Mike, I had new hoses made for a hydraulic lift at my local tractor store (Agway) for about $35. Since this is in an area where you have to disassemble the tractor to get to them, you may want to play it safe -- I didn't want to take the chance... Kent

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