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48" Mower Deck Adjustment


Al_Mangani

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Turning clevises IN raises the frt of the deck. Turn them in until you have 1/8-1/4" higher in the front tip of the blades then the rear.with the bladers facing forward and aft.That's the heart of the 'secret' of the quality of the 'Sim. cut!'The other is the deep dish deck. The cutting height is accomplished by turning the adjusters in the rear of the deck by the roller shaft.3" is the height we use on ours.We adj. the rear adjusters till the bolts in the slots at the rear adjuster is approx. midway in the slot. dlc
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Al_Mangani
My 7116 mower deck is waaaay outa whack!! Looking at the blades thru the discharge end, the blades are canted down about 1/2" at the forward end with the rollers set at max height adjustment (roller alignment bolt positioned in bottom of the slot). I backed the two cast iron clevises that engage the bellcranks out about 1/8", but am afraid of backing them out further for fear of insufficient thread engagement. Anyone ever encountered a problem like this before? I have to position the rollers about halfway up the adjusting slot just to get the blades level. The resulting cut height is waaaay too short for my lawn. Aaaaauuuuugggggghhhhhhh!!!!!!! help? Al Mangani (with a very upset wife furiously watering her browned-out "lawn")
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Al, Had the same problem with my 42" deck. Even with the roller bolt at the bottom of the slot it was cutting to short. I turned the clevises in not out and was able to gain about 1/2". In my way of thinking that should raise the rear of the deck. Don't know if this is the propper way to go about it or not. Still the best I can do is a 3" cut and still a little shorter then I'd like. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can shed some light on this for us. Todder
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Al_Mangani
Okay, I understand now. Thanks, fellas. That makes it much easier. I was turning the clevises out....wrong way!! Thanks again. Al
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Hi, Something I use to check the deck level are bolts with long threads. Set the head of the bolt on the floor and run the nut up until the nut touches the bottom of the blade. Use one on each side with the blades pointing straight sideways, this checks the side to side level. Then if it is level side to side turn the blades straight ahead and back use one bolt at the front of the center blade and one at the back of the side blade. Then just set them side by side and you can see exactly how much difference there is with out having to try to measure under the deck. Just do it by feel and then compare. Good luck, Al
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grandpawrichard
DLC's right - Simplicity recommends having the front pitched slightly higher than the rear on the full width roller models. An easy way to see what direction to turn the leveling clevis is to remove both clevis pins (not hitch pins) - be careful not to pinch your hand though - the front of the deck drops way down. If you want to go in that direction turn the clevis accordingly - if you want to go higher push the deck upward and note which way you will need to turn the clevis. Both should be turned in or out evenly and the threads should be about the same length. The side height crank adjusters should not be maxed out (to give some slack) before making an upward adjustment. After proper pitch is accomplished they can be cranked in (clockwise) all the way to maximize the height. This procedure applies to the older full width roller mower design.
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