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328

10 hp carb 2pc flow jet

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PatRarick
Could be the sealing surface of the main jet. Two possible fixes. Purchase Briggs #391413 repair kit. It is a kit to repair warped carbs or tanks on the 3.5 to 4 horse vertical shaft engines. It contains roll pins and teflon washers. Use one or two of the teflon washers as gaskets on the sealing (tapered) area of the main jet. The other possibility is to re-surface the sealing area. Take an old main jet and grind or file the threads off. Use valve grinding compound and lap the area in the carb, much like lapping in valve seats. Use a screwdriver in the old jet to work the jet back and forth. Pat

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dhardin
I had a leak on a 12hp briggs that I repalced all the parts but the 2 main body parts. What was my fix was emery cloth as much of the piting inside the carb bowl and its seal (where the two peaces come together). What had happened it was left siting out and got water in it and it froze. Also possable the carb many have been ever so slightly worped from the freezing water, making it impossable to tighten the 4 screws holding it toghter tight enough to stop the gas from spilling over the lower carb rim. All the very small pits and the not odveious distorsion of the carb lower act as a leaking point. When assembling use a Permatex gas resistent sealent #2 on the new bowl gasket and it stoped leaking. A test to see if its the upper and lower body seal. after its sets for a day or two and it stops or slows down from making a small drip on the floor (or my new paint job) shake the front of the tractor vigerusly for a short time and then watch it for a new drips. I was able to see gas spilling out of the out side of the carb body and as well it run out the inside of the carb bowl, then dripping out the bottom of the carb like it was floded. I had showed the leaky carb to many of my engine repair guys around here and they all said to throw it out its junk, get a new carb. But now it has not leaked in 6 months.

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