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need some suggestions for my 7016


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Harry, Go to www.jackssmallengines.com and check out the quiet mufflers. Don't know if they will have one for your application, but worth a try. As for mowing at full speed, this refers to full engine speed, not full ground speed. Slow it down and you should get a much better quality cut. Todder
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Thx Todder. That is what I do. I was advised by an old man in impossibly huge overalls and very few teeth, and a small business buying, fixing and selling used tractors that I should be able to mow at full ground speed. I suspect that I may have worn both the cutting corners of my blades as well as the 'lift edges' (wings?) a bit. The first would leave tracks between the blades, and if the blades were a bit dull (I am an amateur sharpener) it would cause some grass to be 'missed'. Worn lift edges would keep me from generating enough vacuum to lift the blades up high enough or long enough to be cut adequately. I'll check out the web site, though.
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I can't send a message or call Jackssmallengines.com. The phone won't pick up, and Netscape won't connect. Below is the message I wanted to send there, if the proprietor frequents this bbs. I have a 16hp B&S engine on my Simplicity Sovereign model 7016. I believe the tractor model # is 1690006, made in about 1975. It has a 'tomato can' type muffler on it made by Miller. The exhaust gas enters and exits on the same side of the 'can'. A short pipe directs the fumes through a hole in the side of the hood. Given this much info, can you recommend a muffler that will *significantly* reduce the db level I am currently getting? If I don't use earplugs, I am actually partially deaf after mowing for as little as 30 minutes. The tractor scares large animals and frightens kids, something I need no additional help with. I've actually run over several bushes in the yard because of the stupor the noise puts me into. The cast iron frame on the tractor has survived several close encounters with larger objects. You can reply to this email or mail me back at harry.ransom@mciworld.com. BTW, I called the 410 692-6300 phone # and got no answer or machine 5-5:30pm.
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I have found out that even though you grease the sterring box the bushing is dry on the shaft that the steering wheel bolts to. I usually need to remove the stering box and soak the old grease out disamble everytrhing and put it back together with neverseize on the bushing that the shaft that the steering wheel bolts to. the grease fitting underneath you are talking about greases the "horizonal" shaft not the upright shaft.
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A piece of water pipe with the round muffler that screws on the end would probibly be quieter. The muffler under the hood in my oppinion makes under the hood hotter than it needs to be. I found that with the plow, the clevice part of the plow when the plow is setting on the "bottom" should point down. There is two positions . I've taken the steering apart on many simplicitys from the front to under the dash, cleaned everything and it seemed to help emensly with the steering. Steve
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Regarding your question #4. Try jacking the front wheels off the ground, and operate steering until you determine where it is binding (you may have to disconnect linkage). Grease everthing (especially the king pins)as your helper turns - turns - turns the steering, and spray all linkage with penetrating oil. Make sure your zerk fittings aren't plugged and the grease is really getting in.
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I have the 16hp B&S engine in the 7016 chassis and have several problems. It has the 'tomato can' type muffler that is louder than most people care to stand. Is there an after market muffler that I can swap in that will *significantly* reduce the noise level? The B&S people and the local mower guys say that the 'Miller' muffler may be the only thing there is, and that it is as quiet as it's going to get. Any suggestions? Another question: I have been going through 5 yr batteries every yr or two over the last several years. I think the generator is putting out ok, but the ammeter needle stopped twitching some time ago. Should I just disconnect the ammeter (assuming it's bad) or is there some more extensive test I need to run? How may I tell if the switch is bad? I'd figure if it's grounding out, I'd be getting my elbow straightened every time I touched the key. A third question: the tractor seems to snowplow quite a bit when I'm maneuvering around trees, etc. The tires seem ok, and I've had the rear apart several times (for other reasons), and the variable speed for the rear seems to be operational. Is there something I'm missing, or is there an adjustment that is out of whack somewhere? A fourth question: the tractor is tough to steer. This combined with the above makes cutting the grass a bit of a challenge. I have greased the fitting at the bottom of the steering shaft, and checked the 'fit' of the pinion to the rack. They seem to be centered, and not excessively worn. Also, the front wheels seem to move a bit independently - not much, but when they do, it actually makes the tractor steer a bit better. Are there regular maintenance items that I should replace in that linkage? A fifth question: As I understand it, I should be able to cut grass at top speed (provided the grass isn't more than say 6-8" high). I can not do a good job at that rate. A swath of grass apparently pushed down by the front tires is not completely cut, and occasionally I see tiny paths approximately 1-2 grass blades wide left uncut. When I turn a corner at high speed, I also leave a bit uncut as well. I have regularly sharpened the blades to 60 deg, and I try to make sure that even though the edges of the blade are worn back a bit, they have a good edge on them. As it is, I must make multiple passes over the same area frequently, I go back and forth quite a bit when cutting between trees in my yard, and generally end up spending about 5 hrs cutting about 3 acres. This is pretty poor for an almost completely clear yard. And finally, a minor question: I got a 1 bottom plow and a little disk setup that I can tow behind my tractor. I do not have the electric lift to go with the cat 0 hitch. These items were completely ineffective unless I had someone stand on the plow, or I added a bunch of cement block to the harrow. I tried 'locking' the hitch mechanism down, but I ended up bending the 'hinge bolt' that kind of holds the rear together. How does one use the plow/disk combination effectively? Again, I have a Sovereign 7016, with a 16hp B&S, 48" deck, model 1690006. Anybody got any suggestions?
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Sure, you can whack off a little on your pipe. You'd be cutting about 1 clamp width off where the muffler clamps on. If you take off your existing muffler, it would be the part the clamp covered. They include an elbow(I guess for Kohlers)I didn't use or need it. The problem is in the routeing. The only way to use the trapp is to leave the original elbow on an point it straight up then attach the trapp system. I wasn't too keen on having a HOT muffler sticking out in the breeze. The one thing the stock unit has goin' for it is that it's 'tucked' in neatly and you have to make an effort to touch it. If you want to talk about it give me a call or I'll call you (send email w/numbers).
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harry, If your plow is not going into the ground then it's not contacting the ground at the correct angle of attack. You don't force a plow down it pulls its self into the ground. When it contacts the ground the point should hit first and dig in and then as the plow gets to 6" or however deep you want to plow the plow should level off and pull straight forward. If the angle off attack is too shallow the plow will not dig in and if the angle is to great it will dig in too deep. Some plows have an adjustment for the angle while others require that you adjust this with adjustments on your 3 pt hitch. It's common to add weight to a disk harrow thats why they have the angle iron frame above the disks. Tim
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thx all. I'll reattach the 3 pt hitch and try plowing again. As far as the steering - I don't have a real clear picture in my head right now of the hookup underneath. I have hit all the grease fittings, and have seen grease forced out of the 'seal' at one end or the other of each of the areas, so I know it's getting in there. As far as the suggestion on the water pipe - pardon my skepticism, but a straight pipe would be somewhat quieter? I don't believe there are any holes in my current muffler, so it's not a question of the exhaust making an early exit from the system. The straight pipe would only ensure that the hood might not get as hot (I've singed my hand a few times, but only on 90+deg days). Unless there's some other advantage, I'm not inclined to try it. It certainly would be a bit of effort to break the current rusted pipe free from the block, and I'd be taking a chance on cracking the head/stripping the threads. Any more elaboration on the advantages? Another question: there are several places where parts are assembled using a pin with a hole drilled for a cotter pin to be inserted, esp where the deck attaches to the tractor. I have replaced the original pins for various reasons with what I could find at the HW store. I have noticed that the pins themselves are wearing significantly, and on occasion have speculated that the slight angle afforded by the worn pins affects the wear on the deck drive belt, and perhaps affects the quality of the cut. Are my speculations worthwhile, and are there grade 8 pins available at perhaps more thoroughly outfitted HW stores? thx again to those who responded.
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I have a 7016H and went through the same muffler dilemma. The 'trapp' system is nice, BUT pretty expensive! The muffler, rings and resonator is about $120 plus tax and title. The muffler from Simplicity is a replacement and about an inch and a half longer (the muffler part) so you have to cut the difference of the old and the new off your pipe. It's not as quiet as a new Soveriegn, But then again mothers don't come out and grab their children off their front lawns and the dogs don't chase me anymore. The good news is it's about $60. Yeah not cheap but it works (not real well, just works). My wife even noticed it was quieter! Good Luck!
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JP: thanks for the ray of hope - that perhaps just a new OEM muffler will be good enough. However, for $120 it just might be worth it to me to get the extra quiet one - I really enjoy being able to hear, and I'm not sure there's an extra 1.5" to play with on the exhaust pipe. The pipe makes an immediate bend coming out of the head to send the gas to the 'cross flow' muffler. It's kind of hard to either get 1)an externally threaded elbow to fit into the head, or 2)cut the elbow in half, remove some material, then glue it back together somehow reducing the turning radius. If I can either get jackssmallengines to answer their phone or allow me to post an emailto their website, I'll find out if they have the muffler I need. Know any other places on line to try?
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