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My B10 diff problem


callwill

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I have a problem with my diff & could use a little advice. I bought a repainted B10 that i thought was a B110 because that is what i was told & it came with some B110 printed matter recipts for service & manuals for a B110. The prev owner told me he had the diff serviced because he had chewed up the hub gear. I found that the diff didn't have much diff. Tire was chewing some lawn on turns. Eventually, it stopped moving. I had a similar problem on my 3212 & knew i needed to open the diff & fix. Broken key was the problem. I also noticed that the right side gear wasn't tight to the hub, it was definitely spaced out some on the roll pins-the prev owner told me that is what he had replaced. First question is: shouldn't that gear be nice & tight to the hub? On to the next: after reassembly still had some diff(semi locked) problems. Took it back apart to check. It matched the exploded parts b110 diagram i had. Then I found a tag on the seatpan i hadn't seen: B10. Different exploded parts according to simp pdf. In trying to "rebuild" i "wonder that the axle may have been swaped, i can't be sure, The keys/keyways overhang the gear shoulders & without those Spacers/washers that are cut to fit over the keys i'll have key shoulders on either side of the gear & that won't work. Second question: what can i do to make this work?-substitute the key-cut spacers for the originals? Have the shoulders of the keys cut down? Was there a special key for these? Thoughts? Help?
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If I were you, I would look for a "new Style" differential and change the differential and axle out. I had left hub problems with my B-12. It is the same set up as your B-10. I had a shuttle shift tranny and it took just 10 minutes to change out the differential. It made a better driving tractor out of the B-12. Everything should be tight. It sounds like your differential is damaged. Think about the change out. It will slip right in. Check this out. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23070
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I am using the later model diff and axle in my 61 Wards. It slips right in. Just a few minutes to change.
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What is the difference between the later model & mine? I rebuilt my 1970 3213H diff once & i don't see what the big difference is. I know some diffs had the springs & some had the spacers(mine has spacers) but what else? My diff isn't damaged, i went thru it & it is fine, it was the key on the axle that fractured& allowed the gear the just spin, driving nothing. Personally, i would prefer to have it that way it was new, that way the orginal diagrams are easily followed for repair by me or any future owner. Does anyone know if there were special keys for this gear & axle so that i might fix what i have with the least amount of investment in time & parts hunting?
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I have all my old parts, all in good shape except for the fractured keys. It looks like someone mistakenly put it all together as a b110 axle/diff once 'cuz there are spacers in there that aren't in the b10 diagram, but without seeing a b10 open & apart I cannot tell what i need to put it back to right, 'cuz the replacement keys i have shoulder out past the gear that drives the axle. I do not know whether i have the wrong keys or a wrong axle & keys or what.
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You need washers with notches to slide over the keys. I think from memory that there should be at least two that fit over the keys between the gears. If you space the gear on the axle toward the gear on the hub you will lock the diff. I think there is only one washer behind the axle gear and the other washers go between the gears. These washers do need to have the notches for the keys. I had a problem with one of my late model diffs. The diagram showed two washers behind the axle gear. This locked the diff. When I took one of these washers and moved it to the front the diff worked the way it should. Sometimes these parts diagrams are wrong. Sometimes the variation in part sizes requires a different assembly on some diffs.
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After thinking about it myself & looking at things i came to a similar conclusion. My thought was the two final drive gears need to be as far apart as they can with the diff right in the middle.
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