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Bonaro

B-212 Differential...again

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Bonaro
Ok, the popping noises in the diff. were getting worse when I turned and I started hearing it when I pulled hard on something. I pulled the wheel and hub off the right side and the teeth on the hub are freshly rounded off. There is no way to adjust lash for the planetary gears, you can only fool with the shim washers that control the depth of gear engagement and they were correct. Since you can't adjust lash, the only possible cause is a distorted planetary housing. This would allow the planetarys to expand outward under heavy load and eventually skip. Does this sound right to you guys? Is this a common breakdown? I have worked on the rearend/differential several times in the last couple months and I am getting pretty frustrated with this big yellow beast. Does anyone have a B series differential and outer hub they will sell me for cheap before I warm up the welder or dig out the for sale signs??? Thanx, Dan

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Bonaro
I am working a deal on a replacment diff right now. All in all I do like the tractor. I just have been nickled and dimed to death. Rotten tires, streched out belts, PTO bearings and then the rearend/diff problems. This thing has just not been maintained well before I got it and now I have to catch up. I hope the new diff will hold up.

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HubbardRA
There are two collars on the axle that goes from the left side all the way through the right hub. Usually the type of problem that you describe is caused by not having these collars slid up tight against the moving parts. When you have assembled the new parts. Jack up the left wheel. Pull it hard to the left. While you have the load on it, slide the left side collar tightly against the tube on the left side and tighten the set screws. There should be no side to side motion in the axle. If there is motion, this will allow the right side hub gear to slide out of the planetary gears, which will break the corners off the gears.

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toad270
HANG IN THERE Once your finished you'll love this little tractor and you won't buy one as good as it and as heavy now days for the price even with all the nickles and dimes added up. this is the best place to go for advice about these tractors!!!!!! do you have any pictures of this beauty

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Bonaro
Double reply... HubbardRA- When I assembled the diff last time I made sure the left axle was all the way in before seting the collar. The teeth on the right wheel hub were not missing corners, they were rounded off evenly over their entire width. It was like way way too much load was applied and this is the point that slipped. Toad- Once I get all the bugs worked out I am sure it will be a happier time for me and my tractor. My finantial advisor/domestic goddess is starting to raise a fuss because I keep asking for $50 here and $100 there to buy parts and keep this beast moving. She even went so far as to suggest I purchase a green and yellow tractor on payments....<shiver>... I do have some good pics but I cannot upload, I am not a member. This is a great forum. I have learned a lot by searching the threads and asking questions. The people here have been very helpful.

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HubbardRA
Bonaro, It sounds like something is assembled wrong in the spider gears. There is not enough relative motion in the gears to produce significant gear wear in a short time. I've seen broken pieces in these gears, but never seen warn gears. You also said the left axle was all the way "in" when the collar was locked down. You must first tighten the right collar (at the end of the axle), then pull the left end of the axle all the way "out" and slide the collar "in" till it contacts the tube, then lock down that collar.

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Bonaro
Hmmm...maybe that is where I am going wrong. I pushed the left axle in tight, put the right hub in tight then the right collar. There didnt seem to be any play but I will be more careful next time. My replacemnt parts should be her by the end of the week. However, I would think that putting it toghether wrong would only round off the corners of the teeth, not cause them to skip...

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HubbardRA
Bonaro, Also, in the old diff, make sure the spider gears are assembled correctly. They should alternate with one on the left and then one on the right. Someone could have assembled them wrong. If you trade for another, assemble it without taking the planetary housing apart. Make sure you have sufficient washers between the left axle gear and the gear on the right side hub to prevent differential lockup. These units are relatively simple. I had trouble with one locking up because the parts breakdown in the manual was wrong. It needed one more spacer washer between the gears.

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acken
I learned the hard way on a similar problem. Mine ended up being the holes themselves wore enough to allow the outer gears to work away from the inner gear. Check the bolts also, they can get a groove wore in where they sit in the housing. The diff housing halves are available as a kit,( I think about $25 at dealer).

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Bonaro
Acken, worn holes in the housing allowing the gears to work away....that sounds exactly like my problem. I already swapped out one housing after the first failure and those holes were obviously worn. Actually, streched out is a better description. Hubbard, I have been told that the bolt torque is 25 ft/lbs but you indicate they should be "extremely tight"

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HubbardRA
Bonaro, I've been tractor pulling with a Simplicity for over 15 years. I always tighten the bolts to just about the limit that I think they can stand without damage. I've never broken any gears in a rear. I did shear the axle keys once. Also broke one of the removable left side hubs. That is all we ever broke. I converted my 61 to the late model limited slip axle, because I didn't like running the old type locked.

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Bonaro
Interesting...I wonder if tractor pulling puts less stress on the diff because you are going in a straight line, without turns? I am running #50 of concrete and chains on each rear wheel and pulling a heavily loaded trailer at about 600-800 pounds.

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HubbardRA
I also use my tractor as a work machine. Last summer we spent a whole day, from 8 am till 5 pm, hauling dirt in a homemade trailer. I estimate about 1000 lb per load with two boys riding on top of the dirt. I have also towed my tandem axle trailer with loads of several thousand pounds into my back yard to park it. I have also drug heavy tree limbs many times when removing trees from my property. Maybe I am lucky, but i have never broken a rear.

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Bonaro
Well then, so much for that theory. I just finished installing the replacment diff. I assembled according to the diagram (any your advice and tightened the bolts using the blue dot torque method (pull on the wrench until you see blue dots) In an attempt to ease my uncertainty, I spray painted all the gears, assembled and turned it through a few times. Then I took it apart and the depth of engagment of the teeth looked good. I drove around and pushed some dirt for about a half hour. SO far so good! Thanks for all the advice! One last question... What are the two bolts on the right hub for? The go into the hub at an angle and seem to press on the bushing.

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HubbardRA
The two bolts on the right hub are a manual version of limited slip or posi-traction. When you tighten them they essentially put on the brakes between the right hub and the axle which drives the left hub. They should be torqued to 25 ft-lb.

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