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SmilinSam

Direct from the parts pile....

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SmilinSam
Put this one together from spare parts and a 712 AC frame, as well as a 3300 PTO I picked up from another member. [img]http://a9.cpimg.com/image/09/BE/34662409-5b93-01DE0194-.jpg[/img] [img]http://a0.cpimg.com/image/0A/BE/34662410-cbbd-019E012A-.jpg[/img] I had to do some creative engineering to get what I wanted in this tractor. I need it to do two things. Operate my Sprayer caddy I made a couple of years ago(pictured in the do it yourself section of Simpletractors) and the Weedmower that you see on it. To run the Weed mower I needed a old style center PTO.Thought I'd just swap the whole thing in and do away with the Cone clutch, but no dice. The Layout for the safety switch is not right on the 3400 series and newer for the 3300 style engament hardware. Thus I have opted for a hybrid. [img]http://a1.cpimg.com/image/0B/BE/34662411-2a06-01B40160-.jpg[/img] [img] http://a2.cpimg.com/image/0C/BE/34662412-1938-01C8013C-.jpg[/img] Must be a length difference between the 33/3400/7000 series and the HB 212 types. My belt ended up being to big on this while it worked fine on the HB 212 I had used earlier. So rather than buy an expensive belt, I added a Idler to take up the slack. [img]http://a3.cpimg.com/image/0D/BE/34662413-7dd6-0204019C-.jpg[/img] As to a Shuttle tractor. They seem to be Ok. This one needs some worn linkage parts shored up or replaced, but over all its not bad. I'll note that its Pretty sensative to adjust. The main thing I need to bear in mind is to use the clutch to stop, while just using the lever to change directions. If the thing holds up I my even paint it later, but I don't know why. This mower covers the tractor with grass evertime you turn into the wind....

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maxtorman1234
It looks like you did a great Job, And that PTO looks like a very good idea. Tractor looks great, Especially with the Kohler engine;). I have put my shuttle transmission from my 410 onto my 310, and i have noticed that it's very sensitive too, and its a pain to keep adjusting it. That tractor looks excellent, and i bet that weedmower is handy too. Good job;)

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SmilinSam
One thing about the hybrid PTO is that the cone clutch belt groove sticks out farther than the Old type, so I ended up taking the double V pulley and turning it around so that the bigger V is to the outside and lines up with the Cone clutch v. The only problem I have at the moment is that this double V pulley also uses a double V groove for a mower drive double belt . At the moment my belt is riding in one half of that double v . I'll have to get a weld a hub pulley and make up the right thing before I completely ruin the belt I'm using. Almost forgot the best part.... used a seat off a Cub Cadet and used it just the way I got it.......See... [img]http://a5.cpimg.com/image/37/8E/34668855-6acb-018E0124-.jpg[/img]

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SimplyAC
quote:
Originally posted by SmilinSam
Almost forgot the best part.... used a seat off a Cub Cadet and used it just the way I got it.......See...
Ya gotta love that seat!^ Mike :D

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comet66
Great job Sam. Man that weed cutter looks wicked. They probably wouldn't be able to sell that thing today. To many stupid people wanting to sue over their own mistakes.

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thedaddycat
You may be able to convert an older PTO to work, but you'll have to change either the older idler pulley bracket out for the 3300 style or the lower PTO cross shaft of the 3300 PTO to the smaller diameter cross shaft assembly of the older style center PTO. I notice that you're running the idler on the rear side of the belt instead of the front side. Was that because it was easier to rig the idler tension spring easier that way? I recently got the Simplicity kit to convert my 3310 from the "W" belt as they called it to a single belt. I was not happy with the kit at all. It consisted of the cross shaft output pulley(to replace the double pulley with a "W" sheave for the mower deck and the smaller sickle bar drive single "V" sheave), a standard single belt arbor drive pulley, belt, belt guard and a couple thrust washers for about $140 out the door. When I got it home, I realized the "output" pulley was identical to the input pulley and that there was no second sheave for the sickle bar drive. The mower deck driven pulley was the type that you attach a hub to the arbor and the pulley attaches to the hub with three bolts but instead of having just a new pulley section you have to remove the hub from the arbor and install the solid cast single belt pulley. I didn't like the fact that this "conversion" kit removed the second PTO drive, and I have spare parts to convert to this set up without spending that much money(all I'd need is a belt). I ordered the $40 "W" belt instead and returned the kit......

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SmilinSam
That would work getting a older lower unit, but I'm out of em right now. I do already have one weld a hub type made up for this shaft to use a old style sickle mower with so I may as well make another up for this. As to the idler on the opposite side, I had to do it that way because of the shape of the idler bracket and the problem of the mounting bracket for the cone clutch assembly being in the way for a pulley mounted on the other side where it normaly would be. Though about making a different shaped idler bracket, but that would have taken more time and I was in a hurry to get this going. I may do some more engineering after I run it a while and see what the results are. Don't know about you Kirk, but the third try seems to be the magic number for me to get it respectably right.......If I'm luckey

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SmilinSam
Kirk, I got to thinking today and the older smaller shaft pully and bracket won't help. Those have the bigger drive pulley welded on the one end of the shaft. Thats the end where you need to have the pulley out away from the bracket farther so as to line up with the v slot in the cone clutch. The cone clutch groove to drive the mowers sticks out an inch or so farther from the tractor than the older type PTO keyed on pulleys do. The only way for that shaft to work would be to custom make a shaft thats keyed on both ends and use appropriate pulleys to line up with everything.

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thedaddycat
Sam, interesting points..... Maybe if you took the shaft from a 9 HP Landlord or earlier model which just happens to be keyed on both ends(heck maybe even the whole PTO) it would work. I think if you put a spacer(or a stack of thrust washers) in there on the left side to shim the input pulley out enough to line up with the cone clutch PTO(while engaged) and just set the output pulley hanging off the end of the shaft a tad it might work. You could even center the shaft so that both pulleys were hanging off the same amount. The other thing is how to adapt the bigger 3300 PTO to the smaller shaft of the earlier models. I think if you replaced the bearings in the larger PTO bracket of the 3300 with ones that the ID of the bearing matched the smaller shaft of the earlier PTO that would be the easiest way to match them up.... JMHO, all other ideas welcome I did a little more looking in the LFGT S&R Manual. The 3200 series also used shafts that were keyed on both ends. I can't tell if the size is smaller than the 3300 series or not from the drawings though. It looks like the input pulley is the same as the one shown for the 3300 in my book so perhaps they are the same size....

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SmilinSam
Too bad I don't have more spare parts laying around to experiment with. I have a bad habit of selling them all.... Finding the bearings to reduce to the smaller shaft wouldn't be hard at all with the bearing supply warehouse we have about 30 minutes from here. At the moment I'mpersonally going to stick with the larger shaft and make another pulley to work with, but theres alot of ideas for all the onlookers here to play with in their spare time. The real beauty of this setup I'm working on here off the cone clutch is that If I pristine up the idler tension spring setup to something better than what I have now, I can ultimately switch back and forth between the old PTO set and the new PTO set by simply taking off the left rear wheel, pull a retaining pin and slide one pto set out and the other in and re-install the pin. Then I am free to use old style or new style sickle mowers and such. Here is a pic of the sprayer mounted.... [img]http://a3.cpimg.com/image/99/B2/34796953-a8fe-0238016C-.jpg[/img]

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thedaddycat
Sam, Sam, Sam..... Why are you doing it the hard way??? Unless that AC is a lot different than my Simplicity, you just pull the pin in the upper pivot shaft and slip the shaft out to the right side of the tractor. The PTO bracket drops straight down into your hand. No need to remove tire and wheel at all. In fact, I replace every cotter pin with a hair pin clip if I ever have to work on the PTO, just to make it easy to remove the next time if necessary. Or is it the cone clutch assembly that needs the wheel pulled to install or remove??

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