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62 landlord-no spark-HELP

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hello, I just got this landlord used it for about 30 min.- ran fine - then stopped for a minute or two with engine running. then the engine just died. i have no spark now. i am not familiar with magneto systems. what are my next steps? this is the original 10hp briggs. Thanks in advance, Bill

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This may sound crazy but when I had a Lock mower it would not run because a large piec of grass was grounding it out. Look around for that...hey you never know, it happend to me 2-3 times a summer, first time took me a while to figure it out.

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I would begin by removing the ignition switch wire from the points to isolate the engine from the tractor. The points have to be grounded to kill the spark, so removing that wire will eliminate the possibility of a bad ignition switch or wire from the switch. Inspect the wire from the armature (which is behind the blower housing) to the points for signs of bare wire that will ground out the system. Clean and adjust the points, or better yet, replace the points and condenser. Remove the engine from the tractor and check to see if the flywheel key is sheared. Lastly, replace the armature. Think I've covered it all, but I'm sure someone will step in if I've missed something. You may also want to check this link: http://www.simpletractors.com/operation/243431/page_4.htm Pat

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The first thing I would do is replace the spark plug. Last Friday I was mowing with my HB-212 for about 1 hr. I had about 5 min mowing left when I went off the lawn into the street to turn around (making stripes) when the engine quit. Pushed in the throttle and it would start but I could not rev it up and if it did rev up it had no power, put it in gear and it would stall. I finally got it out of the street and back to garage. I thought I had a carb problem. (dirt in jet) I got it started and adjusted high speed jet ¼ turn rich. It ran a little better but still no power. I removed the jet completely and let fuel run out then replaced it. Went to start again and it fired once and that was it. I removed the hood and removed plug wire and held it ¼" from plug and turned tractor over to check for spark to plug. The tractor started and ran fine as long as I held the plug wire ¼" from plug if I touched the plug wire to the plug or replaced it the engine would sputter and stall and would not fire again as long as the plug wire was attached to the plug. I replaced the plug and finished my 5 min. of mowing. The plug I removed looked ok and would fire when out of the engine or in the engine with the plug wire ¼" from the plug. It would not fire in the engine under compression wit the plug wire connected. The reason it would fire with the plug wire removed is in making the spark jump a larger gap it produces a hotter spark causing a fouled/bad plug to fire.

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well, it looks like the valve guide on the exhaust side split into two pieces. Are parts still availible for these ? where would be the best place to get parts if still availible? Thanks to everyone for helping me with my problem! Bill

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yes, you should still be able to get parts. I would have a engine repair shop do the job of pressing the new valve seat back into the block, and re-lapping the valves. Good luck to you, Ryan

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