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Fuel Shutoff Valves


Roy

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My 7013S has a leaky carburetor which I have not fixed yet. The B & S fuel shutoff valve on the line to the carburetor was leaking through and draining the gas tank. I put a new B & S shutoff valve on. Still drained the tank. Today I removed the tank and bubble tested it with air pressure (4 to 5 psi). No leak so the shutoff valves must be the problem. This brings up some questions: 1. Are these valves supposed to be close "bubble tight" (e.g. zero leakage)? 2. Has anyone else had a problem with these valves? 3. Is there some trick to closing the valve that I have not discovered? 4. Is there a different brand of valve that will close bubble tight? Thanks,
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If you are talking about the plastic inline valves, I have one of those on my B207. Been on there for about four years and I'vee had no problem with it yet. I do have a source for the metal ones with the 1/4 turn lever. Could get one for you at cost. Should be about $10 to your mailbox.
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I have four tractors with plastic shut off valves, all from Sten's, two inline and two carb mounted the oldest being ten years on the 7010-6.
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I just put a plastic inline shut off on the B110 after almost losing it to a fuel fire while changing the carb. Original shutoff would not close so we left the old carb attached to the line to stop flow till replacement could be bolted up. The guy helping layed the carb on top the tractor sparking the battery and flash instant fire. The old carb got pulled off the line and the running fuel kept feeding the fire. But all is well now and the valve works and the inline briggs filter keeps the carb clean.
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I had a similar problem with the shut off valve gass strainer. A guy at the shop rebuild the stock valve and strainer and highly reccomended a plastic shut off inline. I put it in a love it so far. His reasoning is that the stock shut off is difficut to reach/turn and has to be turned several times to shut off. In emergency this may not be desirable. While the plastic inline is easier to reach, has 1/4 turn shut off, and if/when it wears out it is easy/cheap to replace.
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One thing to check on the valve problem. On the ones I use there is an arrow molded on the valve body to tell you which way to install the valve. The arrow should point towards the carb. I have used a dozen of these valves and had no problems with any of them yet. Hope this helps.
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Roy, I have a plastic valve on the AC712S. It works fine. I have a brass quarter turn ball valve like they use on natural gas stoves, with two hose fittings screwed into it, on the 61 Wards. This also works fine, but was much more expensive. I do not have a shutoff on the AC716H.
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I have one that was on my 3415H when I got it...It must be getting wore out because sometimes it will leak through anyway and sometimes it don't..But lately I have been starting it up a couple times a week and now it seems to be working..Maybe it had some crude in it keeping it from sealing up and it worked its way though?
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Gang, Thanks for all the responses, tips, and advice. Whatever is leaking is a very slow leak. Any chance that the tank has a microscopic hole that will not show on a bubble test but slowly leak gasoline?
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