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Charlieson

I give up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Charlieson
Friend bought a b112 with varidrive and a 32" tiller (see earlier post). He said it didnt shift and wouldnt stop. I made the mistake of saying Id take a look at it. The belt stop wasnt stopping the belt. Rear vari pulley guide holes were all wobbled out and the belt looked like the original. We got a new belt and I started the process of adjusting everything. I cant get the darn thing adjusted. The belt will stop if the vari lever is in the high position, but just smokes the belt in the low position. Any ideas? Ive been through everything a hundred times. What is the adjustment on the clutch rod? The book says 7/8" when in high (it must be a misprint) but I cant get 7/8 either way. My 3212v wasnt this hard. I know I have read a thousand posts on this and will probably read a thousand more. ddh

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thedaddycat
That's kind of funny, since I've had some problems in the past with my B-112 not shifting while in high but shifts fine in low.... The belt was about worn out, so you just couldn't get it adjusted right no matter what... I relaced the belt with one from a spare tranny(the belt on that tranny was brand new, still had the ink markings on it...) and problem solved.... I just gave Rob one of my spare tranny variable pulleys, but I have another that's in decent shape. PM me........

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Charlieson
I replaced the variable pulley on the tranny with my spare. I didnt want to do it, but the holes on the b112 pulley were all egg shaped. I have an entire unit including rearend for my 3212v that Ive been hoarding for some time. I gonna replace the belt stop assembly Monday. It is pretty sloppy to. It looks to me like the b112 is shorter than my 3212, but I could be wrong. Maybe I'll just tell him it aint worth fixin and I'll give him 200 for it. HA HA:-} ddh

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johnerj
I think it should say 1/8'' from the top of the rear pulley when in high, also make sure the measurement from the rear axle to the belt stop is right 8-7/8, and that the lever is adjusted properly. Everything seams to me, has to be adjusted just right. Also make sure there is not too much slop in the front or back fork, if there is a lot of slop in one of the forks, this will cause the problem you are having, because when you push the clutch in, and the belt gets pulled the pulley will move out letting the belt continue to spin. Hope some of this helps, as I have been through this 1000 times with my B210 and 3112V. John

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Charlieson
Thanks John. The Measurement I have in my 3212 manual is 9 1/4. I thought it might be different with the b series allis. It just looks a little shorter in the back end. I think you are right about the slop in the forks. I noticed that. When I had everything adjusted, it seemed like it moved when I was trying to stop the belt. ddh

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Kent
Forget that measurement -- it's only a starting point -- it won't work, as is, on a worn system. Pivot that front belt stop on the idler as far forward as you can without it rubbing the belt. Then when you push the clutch in, as that idler moves forward, it will lightly "pinch" the belt enough to prevent the belt from moving... Check to make sure that it doesn't rub the belt in both the high and low settings, and it should work for you...

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Salthart
I think your going to find your trouble to be wear in the bearings of the varidrive pulleys. It sounds to me like you clutch adjustment is different when in low than in high so it kinda stands to reason the pulleys are the trouble IMO. The last time I had one of these down was a good while back and I'm sure Daddycat or UCD can tell you far better than I what parts may be needed. But you should check all wear points and bearings. Watch the pulleys move with the tractor running while out of gear.. Move the vari level and see if the pulleys return to the same width each time. Watch close for lost motion in all the links etc. If one pulley keeps moving for a bit after the other has stopped, it will put a load on the belt and keep the clutch from working...Good luck

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Charlieson
Thanks everyone. I think wear is the problem. The transmission vari pulleys were really wobbled out. I am going to check the forks and other parts tommorrow. I may end up using all of my 'spare parts' on this tractor. I've been holding them for my 3212v since I plan on keeping it till I am to old to run it. The tractor appears to have been well used, although the briggs motor is very good. ddh

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Charlieson
Checked the forks, they were tight. Replaced the belt stop bracket and idler pulley and readjusted. Belt seemed to stop. Put tractor in gear and drove around, when I hit the brakes the entire rearend moved forward! I checked the bolts that attach the brackets to the rearend, they were all very loose. Tighten down all the bolts. Pushed clutch in while watching for slop, noticed that clutch rod was rubbing on rear lift rod. It was on backwards. Removed it and turned it around. Adjusted clutch rod and started tractor up. Still stops belt fine in high range but not so good in low. I have the belt stop adjusted all the way without rubbing the belt. I noticed that when the clutch is pushed in the belt stop doesnt hardly move at all. I think that where the linkage rod goes through the brackets there is to much play. Any ideas on how to take it out? Or why the rod isnt moving very much? Id say it doesnt move up a quarter of an inch. ddh

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Kent
My only suggestion is that you try backing off on the brake adjustment a little bit, and tightening the "slack" in the clutch rod, so that when you push the clutch in you are getting the most travel possible. Other than that, you're only recourse sounds like replace or rebuilding worn parts. For example you could either build up via welding and then redrill the elongated hole, or weld on a bushing with a "fresh hole" to get rid of some slop in the linkage...

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johnerj
quote:
Originally posted by Kent or weld on a bushing with a "fresh hole" to get rid of some slop in the linkage...
This is what I had to do to correct my tractors clutch problems. Even ended up putting a bushing in the clutch bracket. I had so much slop in the forks that the pulleys would just walk open when the clutch was pressed in. Also ended up getting a new belt, clutch spring and slide bushings. Now it adjusts to the manual, and works perfectly.

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Charlieson
The brake band. I bet thats the problem. Fellow said he adjusted the brakes. I'll try that this afternoon. Still think it would have been simpler just to offer him 200 for the entire deal and put the tiller on my Sovereign. thanks everyone, ddh

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Charlieson
It was the brake band. Well, all the slop in the varispeed pulleys didnt help or the bolts in the rearend that were loose didnt help either. Rod, I already tried to buy the tiller. I agree, you dont see many around here. I used to hang around the simplicity dealer in New Market and only saw one the entire time I was there. They do an excellent job. The steam and gas show is in Berryville next weekend, they usually have a bunch of old garden tractors. You might check it out. It isnt really that far from you either. Probably the same distance as it is from me. ddh

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Charlieson
Berryville Steam and Gas show is this weekend, not next. Heres a good link for all the shows in VA. http://www.reunionofthepast.8m.net/2004_Tractor_Pull___Shows/2004_tractor_pull___shows.html

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