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Brent_Baumer

Kohler charging system question

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Brent_Baumer
Can one use a 5, 10 or 15A rectifier/regulator with any K341 stator? IE if you have a k341 and with no reg. but has the stator and you have a 15A reg. laying around can you use it even though the engine may or may not have come with a 15A reg. on it originally? I know this, it will work for a short time but will blow a 5A fuse. I'd like to know before I install a 10 or 15A fuse and damage the stator. Thanks, Brent

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HubbardRA
Brent, The regulator should match the stator. The magnets under the flywheel are the same for all. I changed from a blown 10 amp to a good 15 amp on one. I used a bridge rectifier and then used a voltage regulator from a starter-generator. It worked fine. Just make sure that the regulator is for a stator of that size or smaller. If you put a 15 amp regulator on a 5 amp stator, it will probably burn up the stator because it will allow too much current to be drawn before limiting, this will produce too much heat. I know this is true for starter-generators and I assume it is also true with alternators. Your best bet would be to send a PM to Al Eden, because he is probably the foremost expert on this subject within the club. If it were me, I would put in a 20 amp fuze and try it. None of my machines have fuzes at all. The two Kohlers that I currently have are probably the ones with the 3 amp systems. They have the little plastic coated regulators attached to the engine shroud. All of the ones that I have seen with the 10, 15, and 30 amp systems used the large regulators with the cooling fins on them. The one I mentioned above with the 15 amp was sold several years ago. It was a K341.

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ambler
The plastic boxes are solid state regulators, I believe most likely 15 amp. The 3 amp systems were unregulated with a zener diode to convert AC to DC, no box. I believe the old fin stuff are analog circuitry with heat sinks.

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ambler
I just checked the Kohler publication "Engine Electrical Systems" Rod is correct regulator is specific for stator. Kohler has 1.25, 3, 15, 25 and 30 amp charging systems. The s 3 amp unregulated was used on early allis with a zener diode to convert to DC. Usually has a secondary 70 watt AC lighting circuit. This is what my 712S has. regulators can be externally mounted "fins" or blower housing mounted "fins inside housing".

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Brent_Baumer
My Kohler manual shows 5, 10 and 15A charging systems. The regulator I have is definitely the 15A as my manual has a drawing of it with the pin configuration for the wiring connector that matches the version I have. I think I'll try charging the battery on the charger first to get it to full charge, then using a 10A fuse and see if it lasts. Then go to the 15A if it doesn't. Thanks.

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Al
Hi, Some of the flywheels are made with 1 magnet missing. I believe this is the differenc between the 10 and 15 amp system. I don't remember for sure which 2 systems, but as I remember I think these 2. I know the first time I thought I had a bad flywheel with the mystery as to how the magnet got away. Called my rep to get enlightened. My 2 cents worth, its free, value accordingly. Al Eden

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HubbardRA
Eddie, I had a 16 Hp single cylinder that also had the missing magnet. I thought the same as Al. How did the magnet come loose, and where did it go. Couldn't figure how it got out from behind the flywheel and shrouding. I put it back together with a new stator and it charged great.

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maxtorman1234
I had a 3 amp unregulated charging system in the 716H i picked up a while ago. It also had the missing magnet, since i wasnt sure if it was special for the 3 amp, I took the flywheel off my spare 12HP engine. I used that flywheel when i Put it back together with a 15amp stator. Wasnt sure if it would work or not, but I hope it does.

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Dutch
quote:
Originally posted by Charlieson
What is the easiest way to test the charging output?
The easiest way is to turn on the headlights with the engine idling. Then rev up the engine. If the headlights get brighter, the charging system is working. (Won't work on tractors with separate circuits for lights & charging.) The same test can be done with a voltmeter. The charging system is working if the voltage is over 13.5 with the engine running fast. If you mean capacity (amperage), that's a little more difficult to do accurately. First you will need an ammeter that will read in the proper range. Then you will have to put a controlled load on the system. The "quick & dirty" way to test capacity is to remove a spark plug wire and crank the starter for 15-30 seconds. Reconnect the spark plug and start the engine as you look at your ammeter. Whatever the ammeter is reads is approximately what the charging capacity is. I have a little analog meter that I've had for years (I think it's a Kal). It connects inline with the negative battery cable. There are adapters that bypass the regulator. It will test voltage and amps on both generators and alternators. I also use a pair of inductive ammeters (0-100 & 0-1000) to test charging and starter systems. I like them because they just have to be laid on a battery cable.

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Brent_Baumer
Well, decided I couldn't wait for the charger and installed a 10A fuse. The battery is somewhat rundown but still plenty of starting power. Ammeter jumped up and it charged for a few seconds and blew the fuse. Removed blown fuse and install a 15A fuse. Let it run for a couple minutes at 3/4 throttle. Charging the whole time. No blown fuse. I think it is going to work. Brent

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