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Pulley's


EricD

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Has anyone ever put a smaller pulley on the BGB to drive the transaxle? I'm thinking that this may be an option to gear the machine down.
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Eric, Roy is on the money. There were a couple of optional final drive pulleys. I seem to remember 8" and 10" as options and 6" standard.
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A smaller pulley on the drive pulley makes the belt want to slip more than the larger pulley. Also the smaller diameter of the pulley puts more flex on the belt and will most likely shorten the belt life significantly. Remember that the belts are specifically designed for the individual drive applications on the tractors. This is why generic belts don't last nearly as long as a Simplicity belt of the specified part number.
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The Hi-Low for the B series is actually about a 3:1 reduction. You will get a third the speed in low that you do in high. If you just change the tranny pulley, you can figure out the reduction ratio by the pulley sizes. You may also need a longer belt if you change to a significantly larger pulley on the tranny.....
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This site has a sprocket/pulley calculator, you should be able to figure out what size you will need. http://www.baumhydraulics.com/calculators.htm RayH
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Thanks guys, maybe I should have been more clear although I think Hubbard understood my question. I'm talking about instead of changing the large pulley on the transaxle, changing the BGB pulley to a smaller one (because finding a hi/low is hard and costly).
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Eric, I think people understood... but were recommending the better approach -- leave the BGB pulley alone and change the tranny pulley. It is MUCH better to change the driven pulley on the tranny, so that the belt stop on the BGB and the clutch idler pulley mechanism will work correctly. Plus, it allows for more "fine-tuning" than changes to BGB drive pulley. 1/2" change on the tranny is a small difference -- 1/2" change on the BGB is a much bigger difference. Should you try to change the BGB pulley, make sure you reshape the semi-circular belt stop/guard to fit the circumference of the new pulley...
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quote:
Originally posted by Kent
Eric, I think people understood... but were recommending the better approach -- leave the BGB pulley alone and change the tranny pulley. It is MUCH better to change the driven pulley on the tranny, so that the belt stop on the BGB and the clutch idler pulley mechanism will work correctly. Plus, it allows for more "fine-tuning" than changes to BGB drive pulley. 1/2" change on the tranny is a small difference -- 1/2" change on the BGB is a much bigger difference. Should you try to change the BGB pulley, make sure you reshape the semi-circular belt stop/guard to fit the circumference of the new pulley...
I understood!
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No offense meant by the clarity of understanding guys. Sounds like I'll be on the look out for 1. a larger rear pulley or 2. a high/low set up. By gearing down I'm trying make life easier and sounds like messing with the BGB pulley can lead to more problems than positive changes. Thanks for the advise.
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Eric, I have a 10" pulley on my loader, but I wouldn't recommend that large of one. I'd recommend you go with an 8" one. With the 10" one, it is too slow.... Unless I'm mistaken, the 10" speed reduction pulley was for the 700 and 725 tractors, while the 8" one was for the 10 HP tractors.... I'm not sure what the 9HP ones used.
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Kent thanks for the tip on the 10" pulley. I'll go with an 8" on the Big Ten since I'm looking at butting a Briggs 16 on it. Still might try a 10" on the old 9hp B-10 just for the "stump-pulling" jobs.
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