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GWGAllisfan

Out of ideas on poor running B-10

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GWGAllisfan
I have a 1966 B-10 that has been in the family since it was new. It was re-engined with a new 24431 brigs around 76. recently i had someone fix a broken rod, but it still doesn't seem to run right. I believe that person converted it to no-points ignition, as the points don't seem to move at all and grounding them doesn't stop the engine. Anyway i had a local mower repair guy look at it and he got it to run fair, but it still seems to stall out when at full throttle. It will run fair at half throttle, but there seems to be a slight miss and the governor engages occasionaly even with no or light load. I tried to work with it Monday, but it kept quitting when I was mowing. If I was quick enough, i could usually stop and if i worked the choke could get it to recover,but occasionally it would stop and flood completely out. I thought it might be a loose manifold, but i fixed that. I have tried adjusting the carb as per instructions in the manuals but no luck. Could it be ignition? Are the floats on these prone to stick? I'm not completley convinced the first repair guy put the same carb one it it went in with. is there a way to tell them apart?

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dogboy
Yes it could but it sounds like you need to find some one local to you to look it over.sounds like you may have more than one problem ,fuel problem for sure,and some adjustments need to be right,possibly ignition trouble. good luck ,its worth fixing.

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roma3112
Depending onthe engine, one thing you may want to look at is which type of electronic ignition was used. My 3112h with a 12hp 300421 briggs was converted (by me ) to a magnetron ignition. Well i never had the flywheel re-polorized, it ran but lacked power and acted ALOT like you describe. I even went so far as to think it was the carb and rebuilt it. Do you know what was used as a replacement ignition system? It may be worth looking into, there are many threads here on this topic, just do a search for it. good luck

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GWGAllisfan
Ok I worked on this tractor last weekend and no luck. Now it floods every time. I'm thinking about buying a new Carb Looks like the B&S 391070 is the one for my 243431 engine. Does anyone know if this is the same one used for a 23D? By the way if I did this right here is a picture of me and the Allis when we were both one year old.

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Simplicity314
GW...I'd look at the ignition first, especially since it was altered. Regap the points and change it back over to see if it runs any differently. Did it sit at all, for any extended period of time w/o being started? Remove the bowl and look for varnish. That might be your problem. If gaskets are leaking, you might be sucking air, creating a lean condition. Buy carb gaskets (they're cheap) and change them. Look at these things before you spring for a new carb.

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GWGAllisfan
Not really all that experienced on carbs. I checked the needle valves for pits or trash, made sure the idle was set to factory spec. I suspect a float problem. I thought about getting a re-build kit. I figured with new carb i would at least be able to rule carb problems out.

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Woodydel
Take a look at this link first. For some ideas. [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=5277&SearchTerms=,[/url] The PERR site link, embedded in those posts, is important. [url]http://www.perr.com/[/url] Navigate his site. Look for governor explanations in plain English and some basic carburetor insight. Next go buy the appropriate Briggs engine manual.They're cheap and give you the straight scoop. They show you how to rebuild and illustrate the parts of the carb. I use them all the time. Of course, every other part of the engine is discussed including the governor and its functioning. You can buy your manual from Briggs' website. [url]http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BShopProductListingPage.asp?LRID=1&MECID=100&CATALOGID=56B2B9B0-283C-11D4-8886-00B0D0203414[/url]

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thedaddycat
The Model 19 and 23 engines used what I call a three screw carb, while the 10 horse and up use a four screw carb. I call them that because that is how many screws hold the upper and lower body sections together. One quick look and you'll see the difference. I can't say for sure that a three screw carb won't work on the 10 horse, but I can't say it will work either... One other thing is that the older 10 horse engines had a seperate breather and the newer ones have the breather tube that hooks up to the carb below the air filter. You will need to check, but I think our engine would have the breather that goes to the carb. The older carbs don't have the hole for this breather tube.

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arjr111
Also check the fuel tank, on our older B's they are notorious for interior rusting, consequently allowing those particles to make it to the carb. Then the owner will try all kinds of adjustments to get it to run right, and throw it out even more.

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