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Ideas on tire chains


cwm1276

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There are 4 link, 2 link, then each with a bar or such for even more traction. I will be blowing snow on blacktop, I don't want to much to tear up the blacktop so the extra bar models seem to be out. Other information my driveway is fairly flat and if I end up doing and other drives in the subdivision most of them are fairly flat. What is the opinion?
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If your blowing snow you shouldn't even need chains. JMHO. Other then that I think the 4- link would do on blacktop, with two link you almost always are sitting on chain. On my blacktop I spun more with the chains than without them( 2-link), only on ice where they better.
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quote:
Originally posted by wilm169
If I where to use chains I would use the 2 bar for the smother ride.
I agree the 2 link chains make for a smoother ride. I had the 4 link before and hated them. Too bouncy and I think they allowed the wheels to spin more. Never had traction problems with the 2 link spacing tire chains. Just my opnion though.:)
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If you're staying on blacktop, I'd try cleat tires with weight. No damage to the blacktop, and a smooth ride. 12 inches of heavy wet stuff last year on loose gravel and the cleats had no problem pushing the front blower.
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Dave, are you talking about Ag tires, otherwise can you post a pic. I realy don't want to have change tires and I can get the 2 link chains for less and money is a factor here. I just don't want something that I will be cusing about all winter just to do it the right way next year.
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2 link chains refers to cross chains every two links of side chain. 4 link is cross chains every 4 links of cross chain. There for double the cross chains on 2 link versus 4 link hence a higher price for 2 link chains.
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Maynard, which ones would you suggest? I don't want to be cheap and buy the 4 link and be pissed and go out and get the 2 link, or should I really consider the Ags? Tractor is a 7117H
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Or you could buy bar tread tires and go down to the tire dealer and have them studded like car tires used to be. That's what I ran all last winter and never spun a tire with the blade or the blower
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IMO 2 link chains are the best bet whether on tuff or ag tires. I run 2 link chains with ice cleats. My driveway is flat and paved and I haven't marked it up useing either the 7790 with blower or the HB-116 with 46" plow I can plow my drive with the HB-116 with ag tires with out chains but where the come in handy is pushing back banks and acroos the road where I plow down over a slight bank. With out the chains I can not back up even if just the front tires are below grade but with the chains no problem. The 7790 I put into places that if I got stuck I couldn't even get out of the cab. Granted I put it in some places it shouldn't be but I have never not been able to get it out under its own power. With out the chains I would have been stuck. These are 2 link 3/16" side chains with 3/16" cross chains with 5/8" rise ice cleats

This is a picture of the different size and types of cross chains the ice cleat cross chains are on the right. The silver ones are standard and the black are hardened

These are ¼" cross chains with ¾" rise ice cleats that I have for the 7790

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Don't underestimate the importance of tire pressure and operator technique. Before I installed chains and weights, I used the snowthrower with plain turf tires @ 5 psi. I planned my first pass downhill and used the cleared area to go back up. The chains and weights just make the work far easier and are more forgiving if you get "hung up". Snow plowing is another story.
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I Did read above. The chains in the first picture are 2 link, cross chains every second link of side chain. 4 link every other cross chain is missing, cross chains every fourth link of side chain. There is also 3 link, cross chains every third link but these bind up the side cains as every other cross chain is on the odd faceing link. not a very common set up.
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I remember awhile ago there was thread on this exact subject and the common opinion was that chains would/could scar up blacktop. I have a brand new set of 2 link chains for my D/A Ultima that remains unused to this day. Maybe the weight and the drivetrain of the tractor is a factor but I have found that Ags w/weights provide more than enough traction. I even scared my blacktop once with this set up while playing with my blade trying to move a mountain of snow. My driveway is flat, maybe someone with steep/incline driveway can chime in.
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Weights are to offset the weight of the blower hanging out front lifing the back of the tractor off the ground. I use 75lb weight on each wheel. The chains allow you to not slip on the now slick driveway after you've blown it clean and aid in the initial startup of the tractor before you've begun to blow the snow. As you travel from house to house expect deep snow to be between you and the next house. Blowing the road clear in front of you, so you can travel without chains, is a waste of YOUR gasoline. Studs tear up the driveway more than chains. You can do your own studding with self tapping screws (short ones) which are hardened and don't wear off too quickly as you slip on the asphalt.
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I have never had problems with my dad's 716H with 42" blower with chains, I think they are 2 link. But there the drive was gravel and we have the blower skis down as far as they would go and you didn't care if you spun a little on the gravel. We didn't have any weights on if so I don't plan on any either. At the moment I won't be doing any other drives, but just like to keep the option open to be a good neighbor in a deep snow.
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UCD If you go back and read your post there is no mention of (4 link) in it but you did answer what I wanted to know. That is the differance between a 2link and 4link . which is how many links there is between connection points of the cross chains. Thanks anyways
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Todd Go back and read my first post in this thread. Quoted below
quote:
Originally posted by UCD
2 link chains refers to cross chains every two links of side chain. 4 link is cross chains every 4 links of cross chain. There for double the cross chains on 2 link versus 4 link hence a higher price for 2 link chains.
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You can find a lot of good information about all kinds of things in the Resources section..... http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/portal_articles.asp?sectionid=5&area=3
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Thanks Kirk, I had read tha Chain thing of your before but now it makes more sense. Still for pavement should I go 2 or 4 link, i don't want to scar the blacktop, and I tend to be quick on the hyrdo, allowing for my slippage.
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I'd spend the money for 2-link and see what happens. It's easier to change your driving style than it is to buy/exchange the chains. I have a pair of each and there's no comparison in the difference in traction -- the 2-link gives MUCH better traction... Plus, there's times you'll likely need all the traction you can get, especially when the snowblower is lifted, which takes weight off the rear tires.... I've found that you can use a blower without doing much spinning at all... and that it's almost impossible to use a plow without spinning, regardless of what type chains or tires you use. I use my plow on tractors with ag tires because of that now...
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quote:
Originally posted by cwm1276
Anybody got a good source for chains? I have been watching the ebay ones.
http://tirechain.com/ The best one-stop source I've found for quality chains, repair parts accessories, tools, and fair prices.
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What is the difference between 2 and 4 link spacing? Spacing is defined as the number of side chain links skipped between cross chains. For 2 link spacing, cross chains occur every 2 side chain links. For 4 link spacing, cross chains occur every 4 side chain link. Which is better 2 or 4 link spacing? 2 link is always better. It provides for a more consistent ride by having more chain on the face of the tire. Therefore, helping to reduce the bumpy ride from being on chain - off chain. 2 link is always recommended for steering tires, since it allows more steering control. When are V-Bar chains recommended? V-bar are helpful on hill, ice and hard packed conditions. They are not recommended on pavement since they can damage the surface it the tires begin to spin. [img]http://tirechain.com/images/garden4link.jpg[/img] 4-Link Spacing a cross chain every 4rth side chain link [img]http://tirechain.com/images/gardentwolink.jpg[/img] Two- Link Spacing a cross chain every 2nd side chain link - nearly twice as many cross chains [img]http://tirechain.com/images/vbarLARGE.jpg[/img] V-BAR (ice cleat) LADDER TRACTOR TIRE CHAINS Cross chain with V-bars welded to each link. V-bar are excellent on hills, ice and other hard packed conditions. They are great in New England with the severe icing conditions. They are not recommended on pavement since they can damage the surface if the tires begin to spin. The V-bar is also know as "reinforced" since they extend the life of the chain since you have to wear through the v before you begin wearing the cross chain itself. The v is on all cross chain links except the ends links where the cross chain is attached to the side chain.

You might want a set of these also CHAIN REPAIR PLIERS truck pliers [img]http://tirechain.com/images/7304.jpg[/img] small for car and small garden tractors [img]http://tirechain.com/images/7301pliercompressed.jpg[/img] This is just about all of the info anyone would need on chains other the the sizes for the tires
If you can't read it or understand it that is your problem
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