Briggs Cutting Out - Fuel Issue

[PhanDad]

Any suggestions would be appreciated for my problem of engine cutout when traveling accross a hill face with the high side to the left and at the same time a slight incline up. The hill face isn't that steep - no where near close to max. After traveling in the above direction (under load) for about 150', the engine starts to sputter and quit. Turning downshill re-establishs engine power. The problem is worse since I "leaned" the high speed jet 1/4 turn. From past experience with my 12HP Briggs powered Homelite, I know if I'm running low on fuel, and heading uphill, there's not enough head in the tank to supply fuel, so that's not the problem. So far I've checked the fuel flow to the carb shutoff valve, thru the carb shutoff valve and out the high speed jet tap on the bottom of the bowl. Also checked the amount of fuel in the carb bowl when level (by letting the carb fill, close the shutoff valve, and seeing how much fuel drains out). Good fuel flow and quantity in the bowl. The main jet is set 1 3/4 turns open, and may still be a bit rich, but obviously not as rich as before I closed it the 1/4 turn mentioned above. It's got me stumped! Thanks in advance for your ideas.

[Wishin2BMowin]

I had a problem with a walk behind mower that did the same as your describing. It was the float in the carb. The float was brass and it got a pin hole in it and some gas got in the float. It only failed when on a hill. I managed to get the gas out and sealed the hole with a soldering gun. Worked for me, hope it does for you...When it fails does it put out black smoke? If not it could just be the float level is set wrong and it starves out of fuel. Good Luck...

[PhanDad]

Thanks for the thought - but it's not a rich condition, no black smoke. I'm pretty sure it's no fuel. But maybe the float's sticking shut and something is hanging it that way when on the side incline.

[garryvh]

It may be slight pluggage at the fuel tank discharge with sediment - this has happened to me. I installed an in-line fuel filter, after cleaning the tank out, and have not had a problem since. I always try to stay greater than half a tank of fuel - if I get less than a quarter tank, the engine does not perform properly. Good luck!

[Al]

Hi, My old 10 Landlord used to do that when it had a lot of hours on it and I used to fix it by having it running and setting the points by turning them in until they started to degrade the running and out until the same happened and then setting them exactly 1/2 way between. I believe my problem was the lobe on the cam for the point plunger was worn and when I would turn downhill the cam would move a little and the plunger would ride up on the unworn part due to end play. I tried and tried to fix it with fuel and that was the only thing that fixed it. I know this sounds bizarre, but it worked. Al Eden.

[gjh]

I have the same thing happen with my Homelite T12 with a 12hp Briggs. I'm pretty dure it's the float.

[MPH]

Like normal, Al may onto something there, if your sure its fuel, check your spark. Checking free movement of your float first may be quicker, just to make sure its alright. Or, if you have a spare carb around, switch it out for a sure test.

[Roy]

Try an electronic ignition module. If it is the cam points lobe, as suggested by AL, the module will eliminate the problem. Worked on my B-1.

[10HorseMan]

My B-110 done the same thing when the tiller was engaged, the new module solved my problem. I like Al's suggestion

[PhanDad]

Everyone, thanks for all the suggestions. Iexperienced the problem again today at close to full throttle while collecting leaves with about 1/4 tank of fuel. If I backed the throttle off some, it would run fine. No points on this briggs. As I mentioned, I checked fuel flow into the float chamber, so as long as the float isn't hanging, there's plenty of fuel flow (on level ground) to the carb. (and I do have an inline filter upstream of the full shutoff valve) I think I'll try Marty's suggestion and switch carbs. I've got a carb on the 10 HP Briggs from the Homelite T-10 I parted out. Anyone see a problem trying that carb on the 16 HP Briggs in my GTH-L? Or would "borrowing" the carb off the 12HP Briggs in my T-12 be a better choice? Thanks for your thoughts.

[thedaddycat]

Here's something you may want to try just to see if it makes a difference. Run the fuel line so it goes down below the carb by a couple inches. I like to have a longer fuel line to keep it farther away from the engine, and it may give you some "reserve" fuel in the longer section. Another thing is that I always put the shut off valve closer to the tank, then the filter between the valve and the carb. If you have to change or check the filter, the valve will keep the tank from draining while you have the filter out....

[UCD]

Question When was the last time the air filter was cleaned and serviced? Or replaced?

[PhanDad]

Maynard, The air filter (both paper and foam elements) were replaced new last fall, the foam element was serviced this spring.

[Chris727]

I think the 10 through 16 carbs will interchange with no problem.

[UCD]

I would clean the air filter again just to eliminate that problem. A dirty air cleaner will cause the problem you stated above.

quote:

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I experienced the problem again today at close to full throttle while collecting leaves with about 1/4 tank of fuel. If I backed the throttle off some, it would run fine.

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I have had that problem before with both my gas tractors and the 7790 diesel. The diesel was especially perplexing as it would start skipping and running rough above ¾ throttle after it got hot. I would lower the throttle just a hair and it would run fine or shut it off and let it cool down it would run fine when started. I knew it wasn't the injectors as they will usually act up just of idle and both of my injectors were new (injectors are $160.00 apiece) I Checked the air filter ( this filter was 15 years old and had been cleaned several times) it looked serviceable but I replaced it anyways ( it was time it had served well) This cured the problem. One of my B series tractors did the same thing. It was the air filter. My HB-212 mower tractor started doing the same thing then it started stalling. it would start right back up but would not run must faster than just of idle put it in gear and it would stall but I could move it at idle. First thought was fuel, (not the problem) I checked spark by pulling the plug wire off from the plug and holding it next to the plug. It would start and run good and could Rev full throttle and it ran fine. I put the plug wire back on and it would not rev to full throttle. I replaced the plug and it ran perfect. Guess what? It was a Champion plug.