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Selenoid contacts corroded?


AC808

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Have any of you experienced a selenoid that pulls in properly allowing power to get to the starter (on a RBT) but not enough to turn it sufficiently fast(battery is definately 'full')? Have any of you seen where the contacts may be corroded from years of arcing? Or would you tend to think that its more likely a connection either at the battery, selenoid or starter...Im going out shortly to redo all the connections. Thanks guys!
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I have seen many relays that will pull in but not allow sufficient current flow to allow starter operation. My experience is mostly automtive but relavent to the question. Over time the arcing that occurs will erode the contacts to the point where complete contact is lost as well creating carbon on contacts (which makes for poor contact). Certianly environmental corrosion can occur as well if left in the elements or in a poor storage situtation. In short a relay having moving parts and carring a large load is very much a throwaway part that can have a short life due to a multitude of factors. Fortunately they are relatively cheap!!!:p
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Hi, This may be happening, but in our starter shop, I believe that 90% of solenoids that are replaced, are good. If you want to check the solenoid, just take a screwdriver, or a booster cable and jump from one terminal to the other. If it cranks faster this way try the solenoid. A much more common trouble is an oxidized connection at the battery, a defective cable, or a bad ground. Also try jumping the battery from something else. If the tractor has a Briggs OHV engine and will barely turn over, set the tappets. This fixes 98% of these. When the tappets get loose, the compression relief bump on the camshaft is ineffective. Whith a Kohler K series, check the compression, if it is above 75 lbs check the compression relief. These little starters can't crank these engines without the benefit of compression relief. My 2 cents worth, its free, value accordingly. Al Eden
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Hmmm...When it turns over it seems like the compression is still there...I didnt realize that the 18hp twin and twin II had compression relief...guess ill check that too
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One thing that I found out while working on a JD is that the solinoid is not getting the full current while trying to start. What happens is that all the safety switches are tied to the starting circuit and over time these switches get dirty and the resistance builds up in each one of them. So, the end result is a solinoid that will pull, but not with enough force to get a good contact. JD realized this and came out with a relay kit to solve the problem. I had this happen to my Legacy, so I got another kit from JD and made it work. I have not had a problem since. It just a 12v relay and a basic harness that supplies the 12v direct from the battery. I will look for the JD part number, but any 12v auto relay will work. I think one for off-road lights would be able to handle the current.
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