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jjouelle

STILL Won't Start

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jjouelle
Last week I asked for the type of spark plug for my 64 landlord with a 23d engine and you guys were alot of help. Well I changed the plug with a new one, changed the points and condenser and still no spark. the guy helping me with this suggested replacing the starter/generator, but told me they cost almost $100 for a new one. This is the point where I ask you guys for help before I spend that much money for nothing. He's not sure if that will fix it either! Please pass along any suggestions. Thanks John

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MPH
A new S/G won't give you any spark. If your pts are gapped at .020 and your sure the plug sparks[new one can be bad] all is connect good, I'm gonna guess you have a problem by the flywheel. Have you had the housing off? Might check the air gap on the armature, should be .010-.014. Also check for rust, clean up the armature and flywheel magnets with a pice of fine emery cloth. Also check you primary wire esp where it connect to an insultated bolt on the backplate. Not sure how you check if the armature is good, so far, haven't needed to learn.

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JJ MARSHALL
the S/G should keep not you from getting a spark. unless it dose not turn engine fast enough.think back what have you been replacing besides the plug. was engine running before replacing the plug. JJ

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jjouelle
Thanks for the information. I'm not a mechanic (although I would like to learn) but I knew something didn't sound right. I will try the suggestions you listed and hope I get spark soon. Thanks

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D-17_Dave
If the engine still uses the armature and points, simply passing the magnet by the armature with the correct air gap is enough to build enough energy to fire the plug as long as the points cycle correctly. You only need speed if you've converted to magnatron ignition. As for your problem, Other than the previously made points about shorted wires and such, I'd check the points plunger and cam lobe so that the points are opening enough to cycle the points. If you need to elliminate the points or the armature/flywheel, you can wire the points to a 12 volt external automotive coil and see if it runs or even sparks with this method. This will help determine whitch area of the ignition needs help. If you need insructions on the auto coil, I think you can find this if you search the archives as its been covered before. Hope this helps, Dave.

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dhardin
One by one you will elieminate the potential problems. For me it was the last thing i had to do, it was to pull the engine and open the flywheel housing and clean out all the dirts and mouse nests in the housing and i had spark. Double checking the air gap was easy and i moved it in some. But when i reinstaled the s/g and hydro lift belts it pulled the worm main bearings up enough it rubbed the flywheel aginst the armature. I had to again remove everything an set the air gap to compinsating for the worn bearing. Just a word of caution.

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Al
Hi, If everything else is OK I would suspect the flywheel key is either sheared or partly so. If you are still using the points and condensor, then the magnets in the flywheel need to be passing the armature when the points break in order to have spark. If the key if sheared this doesn't happen. When engines have solid state ignitions they will have spark when the magnets pass, but the spark will be at the wrong time if the key is sheared. With a battery ignition and coil, the flywheel is out of the picture, and you will have spark no matter how slow the engine is turning when the points break. Note: The engine has to be cranking fast enough to create energy by induction. A sheared key is not uncommon, and can happen the first time the engine fires when starting. This is usually a at least a couple of hundred RPM. My 2 cents worth and its free, value accordingly. Al Eden

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oots
i had proublems with my 7016 starting, i had my generator/starter rebuilt,it didnt help,so i put a electronic ignition on mine and it worked fine.I reset my coil and cleaned the flywheel, when i reset my coil i took a playing between the coil and flywheel and tightened the coil. just thought i would menction that

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HubbardRA
Wendell, I always use a matchbook cover to set the armature gap. I currently have a magneto problem on my AC713S. It will run (mowing the lawn) for about 20 minutes then it starts spitting and sputtering like it is running out of fuel. I have checked and it has a weak intermittent spart. I think the coil is breaking down. It is not overheating from plugged fins, since the engine was recently rebuilt. I'm going to hook up an external coil to check out the problem. I am running an external coil (battery ignition) on my 10 Hp B/S engine and it runs great.

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oldone
When I rebuilt my 23D for my 64, I had weak spark with the armature that would come and go. Looked for a new armature but is was 84 dollars and a new coil with built in resistor was 25. so the coil won for replacement. and had to get a new switch too, for a hot wire. But I like the way in runs now with the coil. John

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