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Wheel Bearings


JCS

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Decided to check front axle before mounting snow blower and one bearing looks like it rusted up and race in wheel is rusty too! Are these races removable or is the whole wheel junk or can I sand it up some?
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The cones can be driven out with a drift, or pressed out. If you order the new bearings from a Simplicity dealer new seals come with the bearings, and they will ask you if you would like new cones.
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Good question! I went and searched this forum and your post is the only one talking about wheel bearings... (didn't check the archives) Anyway, I recently had to remove some tires to get them repaired and then found I had a handful of parts with rust falling out. I'd like to learn more about this subject. Thanks!
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Did the inner front wheel bearing in my Big Ten last weekend. My local bearing supplier could get the outer bearing for around $22 but could not find any eqivalent to the inner. They said the attached seal made it a dealer only item. The Simplicity dealer had the inner bearing with seal for $31 and another $4 for the bearing race. Now I can toss some odd sized tires as all 3 machines have identical front rubber. (the realtor came by this morning to talk about listing our house. she saw the Big Ten, the B10 and the Sears Suburban beside the greenhouse and asked if i was going to clean up the junk!!! hope she knows more about real estate than she does about tractors!)
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Separate seals are available - I have purchased them from a dealer that was discussed in earlier postings (the same dealer who sells the thrust bearings I use on spindles, but I can't come up with the name right now!). Thie seals work just as well as the integral seals on the Simplicity parts, and allow use of the much cheaper plain bearings. I can come up with the dealer name and part numbers if anyone is interested! Tom Schmit
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I have also bought seperate seals from a bearing shop in Anchorage. Don't think I saved any of the boxes to get #'s off of but I know the bearing were Timken.
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If you can come up with the numbers, I'd like them, also. I plan to tear apart the spare front axle I have and redo everything plus try the 'flat bearing to imitate power steering' on it.
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Folks, Here's an old message thread that addressed this issue. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=8126&SearchTerms=wheel, As DaveG notes-- " Use a LM11900LA. This is the same as LM11949 but includes the grease seal". Hence the LM11900A is the inner cone, and the LM11949 is the outer. I seem to recall the LM11900LA was about $10.00. These are Timken part numbers. Tom(PK)
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Does anyone have information on the spindle thrust bearings. Are any modifications needed as most are thicker than the thickness of the spindle bushing flange?
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Sorry for the delay - here it is: I ordered these from A & W bearing Suppy in Dallas, TX (awbearings.com) The front wheel bearings are Timken parts, and the prices were from 2 years ago Front wheel (outside, no seal) TIM LM11949, $3.75 each Inner bearings (with integral grease seal) TIM LM11900LA, $8.41 each bearing races (cones) TIM LM11910, $2.01 each For the thrust washer set up, used on the spindles to make steering easier, these are also good quality Torrington products: bearing itself TOR NTA1220 I used 2 different thickness of washers - these are hardened washers that serve as the roller surface. These washers may need to be stabilized and held in place with a good quality epoxy. Thinner washers TOR TRA 1220, $0.40 each Thicker washers TOR TRB 1220, $0.91 each As you can see, these are great prices, even if they have gone higher over the past 2 years. Finally, there may be some clearance problems when adding the thrust washer set up. You may need to grind a small amount of metal from the top of the spindle tubes in order to fit the e-clip onto the top of the spindle shaft - but it will be a very small amount and will not affect anything. While you are doing these things, be sure that the bronze bushings (inside the spindle tubes) are in good shape. If they are worn, they are very cheap (maybe $2) from your Simplicity dealer. The thrust washer set up works very well for me - I have used it on 3 tractors. Tom Schmit
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I got one race & four bearing and will reuse old grease seals. Also got 4 bushings and new tie rod end from Sandy Lake. It literally came overnight!!! The bushing tightend up the one spindel but the other side still has play so I guess the metal is wore and I think I can feel it with my fingernail. I have already put the special needle bearings in and now am working on the axle pivit bushing. The axle is worn and the old bushing is loose. I got a new grade 8 bolt and two flat washers but really dont think a new bushing is gonna help. I am planning to put some brass on on bushing to build it up.
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Thanks, that helped on the thrust bearings. Have you had any problems with dirt and grit getting in them as they are open sided needle thrust bearings? Or, have you done anything to try to shield the outside?
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