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AC917Hydro

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AC917Hydro
Hi there, I have a AC917H that has been repowered with a Kohler Magnum 18. About 2 months ago, it would not crank or even click. Feeling the problem was electrical, I found a glass fuse that was blown. (this fuse seems to have been added in place of the normal circuit breaker)The tractor then fired right up. About 2 weeks later it would not start again. Checked the fuse, and it was blown. Replaced fuse. Still nothing...:(! I have checked these items so far and found no problems: 1) Battery 2) Key switch 3) Wiring connections 4) Safety interlock switches (Hydro,PTO) Its damn cold up here but my patience still fades long before my fingers get cold.:I Any ideas? Also, am I the only one having difficulty getting on the Simplicity Tech Pubs site? I searched some other electrical problem threads and it was suggested that some detailed trouble shooting guides were contained in the large frame tractor service manual... Alas I cannot get to that manual...B) Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,

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thedaddycat
Do you recall doing anything prior to the fuses blowing? Lights on and using electric lift? having to crank it a lot? It could be a pinched wire that is grounding out every so often. Did yo check the amp rating of the fuses you put back in, are they the right size?

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RedbarnRick
The large frame tractor manual is only three pages when you download it after you have it on your computer you have to go to the contents page and click on the category you want (i.e Electrical systems) this gives you a link to the manual sectio n you clicked on to print it out it would be about 500+ pages

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D-17_Dave
If it's a persistant short, then each time you replace the fuse and turn the switch it will blow the next new fuse. Finding the problem shouldn't be all that hard. Just unplug each circut, one by one untill it stops blowing fuses. This will isolate the short.

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johnerj
I just had a simalar problem on my B212. I changed the Amp guage and the problem went away. After thinking about it, I really did not check to see if the connector was touching the metal mounting bracket or not, but that may have been my problem. It is just too cold here also to fiddle with the old amp gauge to make the determination. May be something for you to check. John

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acken
900 series like to short out headlight circuit near muffler. Try runnig without headlights plugged in, or turned on. There should be a connector down near the right pivot of the hood. You might also try jumping the starter solenoid with a remote switch, this will bypass a lot of the wiring, assuming you have power to the solenoid.

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AC917Hydro
Thanks all. Here are some answers to the questions above. The fuse I replaced is 20A which is the same rating as the circuit breaker so that should be fine. As it stands now, it has not blown the fuse again and yet it still shows no signs of life. (no clicking or lights, etc) I did nothing unusual around the time of failure. I do remember a faint "pop" as I tried to start the tractor a month ago when it blew the fuse the second time. Could the starter be the problem? I bypassed the Ammeter with no effect although I did note some neat sparks as the ammeter casing touched the frame of the tractor as I was removing the instrument cluster... how exciting.:D I will try unpluging the headlights and jumping the starter solenoid. Hopefully this give me some more clues... I presume I can just apply power to the starter and it should crank? I'll let you know what I find out in the morning. G'nite,

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SmilinSam
If it doesn't blow the fuse til you turn the keyswitch to start then you may have a short in the wire going to the starter solenoid or a short in the wires running the safety interlock, or the starter solenoid itself. In any case if there is no click or no attempt at turning it over then you are not getting power at the solenoid. You are going to have to get the deck off and run all the wires going from key swtich to safety switch at the PTO to safety switch at the Hydro control lever to the starter solenoid. A multi meter set to check continuity will be valuable here as you will be able to use it to find shorts and bad switches and solenoids..

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patrician12
A fuse is not a circuit breaker.It can not take surge.You may not have a problem.If they wanted a fuse there originally they would have put one and not a circuit breaker.Cars have relays nowadys to absored surge to protect the computer but still have some circuit breakers.Years ago power windows,power seats,headlights,power tops,solenoids and other heavy intial draws were on breakers.

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AC917Hydro
And the winner is... Jim! 20" of heavy snow was enough incentive to brave the -18 temp and trouble shoot some more. Turns out the positive battery terminal was making a poor connection. I didn't notice when I was testing as I must have been putting the lead of the multimeter onto the battery post, not onto the terminal. Live and learn...:I I installed fibre washers under the terminals and cleaned up the posts and terminals. Runs like a top. Is there anything I can put onto the posts to prevent/slow corrosion? I was tempted to try Vaseline but I don't want to make matters worse. Any Ideas? Thanks again for everyones help. No sense shoveling when there's a perfectly good AC in the garage.;) Have a Merry CHristmas All.:D

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MPH
Year or so ago I pickd up a can of spray from NAPA for battery terminals, works great, no growth on them since. I'd give you the name but its out in the shop, and the wind is blowing snow hard enough to keep me inside for the night.

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Guest
Thank you ,some times it is the easy ones that give the most trouble,i use vaseline , grease or never seize works for me. Merry Christmas!! Later Jim

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