Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

  • Announcements

    • Kent

      Sign In or Password Problems?   10/09/2016

      If you can't Sign In, you need to reset your password.  Use the Forgot Your Password link at the bottom of the Sign In screen, and the site will send you an email to reset it. If you have an AOL email account, use the Contact Us link at the bottom of the screen -- AOL is intermittently blocking email from the site.
    • Kent

      Feedback Please!   10/28/2017

      See News and Announcements forum.
Sign in to follow this  
MPH

Hydro lift ???----different ram?

Recommended Posts

MPH
Guess I'll sortta direct this to Kirk as I just read through his repair guidelines. You stated your cyl rod didn't polish up perfecdtly, Has that caused you any major leakage yet? Spent some effort polishing one for the B-112 tonight and I can still feel pits in with my finger nail..Looks to me the main pressure is on the piston and the orings on the rod really are not under that much. Or may I need to go to a machine shop and have a new rod made?? Tested the pump with my 18 volt and it pumps no oil either way so guess it'll all come apart. Hoping the problem is just crud and need of orings. Took a couple pics of what my cyl looks like. The piston O ring consisted of 3 pieces, 2 red fiber rings and one o ring that if a person cut in half would be 'T' shaped, it was under the red fiber rings. The grove in my piston measures 3/16 wide.

Instead of an o ring inside my end cap there appears to be a blue double lipped scraper type seal that is about 1/4 inch wide. Since the o ring I have for it looks way too small I'm not gonna take it out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
D-17_Dave
The packing seals on the rod of the cyl. are two fold. There are some wipeing seals in the "head" of the cyl. that wipe off dirt and moister from the outside. These are under no pressure. The inner seal,O-ring,or whatever it's made of is a high pressure seal. It has the same pressure on it as the piston does durring the retraction of the cyl. Therefor it must seal. If you buffed out the pits to where they are smooth the seals can float over the pits and still do a good job sealing it up. However, if the pits are deep and the transition is sharp and rough it will leak. Hope this helps as I don't have any pics of this right now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thedaddycat
I have not had problems with that one but then again I never installed it on a tractor(yet) so it remains untested. I have I think 3 or 4 of the hydro lifts but the tractors I use most have electric lifts.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
D-17_Dave
Marty, if the double lipped seal doesn't look nicked and is still real plyable, then it should be OK. Most get stiff after several years. As with any update kits, the new materials made today are usually much better quality and a replacement kit may have a supperseeded part in it like the O-ring for the inside seal in the head for the rod. It may be sized that way to properly preload tension on the rod. But like I said, if the old one's still plyable then it should be OK. As for the piston, the scrapper ring(the red plastic) is used to remove any particals of trash on the cyl. walls to prevent the O-ring from being damaged. I see a lot of new kits use different shapped O-rings in the kits. But never seen a problem with the new style as long as you reasemble in the correct order.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×