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MPH

More hydro lift woes

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MPH
For reasons I can't figure out, on this lift unit I'm working on, I have about 1/4 inch free play in the valve stem which is not there on the one on my Landlord. Also, on the LL I have 4 1/2 inches of travel from float position to float position verses 3 3/8 on this one. Other thing I can't seem to get is the top O ring in the valve body. The #114 seems way big so I got a 113, still fits the valve stem but still won't fit in that grove thats 1/2 inch down the shaft. Anybody got a trick? thanks. Kirk, in your photos you show the plungers going in machined end first, makes sence to me, but mine came out without me noting how they were in, if these are backwards, could that be causing the freeplay?

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Tom45
O rings come in different cross sections as well as diameters. A 1xx series has .103 inch cross section with a -114 being .612 inside diameter (making the outside diameter .808 inches. The -0xx series is .070 inch cross section. A -016 O ring is .614 inside diameter, making the outside diameter .754 inches. If you know the measurements you need, I can probably look up the size. Note that there are also various materials and hardnesses. Most over the shelf O rings are Buna-N rubber of 70 durometer hardness. For high pressure hydraulics, 90 durometer resist blow-out better.

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WarrenVineyards
quote:
Most over the shelf O rings are Buna-N rubber of 70 durometer hardness.
I don't think that's right. Most off-the-shelf kits (say from Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc.) are rated 30 to 35. Garden tractor hydraulics aren't as high pressure as other industrial/farm hydraulic systems; therefore, o-rings rated at 90 are not only high for our garden tractors, they are also unavailable in most of the sizes we need -- I checked (when I rebuilt mine a month ago).

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D-17_Dave
The slack in the LL may be from the chaim link connecting it to the spool. I'm not sure on these but on other valve assemblies there is a spring and a cup bolted to the end of the spool oppisite the lever connection that returns and centers the spool into the "neutral" position.If theis cup gets loose, or the spring breaks or looses a shim whitch doesn't keep the spring tight on both directions of travel it will let the LL have conciderable flop or play in it. This effect could also explain the problems you described concerning the flow to the cyl. that appered to be off. I've never had to disassemble one of these valves/pumps but most are made simmularly.

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WarrenVineyards
quote:
Bob, does it happen to fresh in your memory what size O ring you used in the top of the valve body. Think it must need to be smaller the the 3/32 one I have. Can't find anything thinner in Tok.
I thought the o-ring table in the tech article (accessible through "Resources" above) was accurate. I created my own table shown below. (But, I didn't verify the Width, ID, and OD -- I assumed the tech article was correct. I did verify the Size). Component Amount Size Width ID OD Valve Body Return ports 2 110 3/32 3/8 9/16 Supply port 1 111 3/32 7/16 5/8 Stem seal 2 114 3/32 5/8 13/16 Fittings 2 012 1/16 3/8 1/2 Check valves 2 014 1/16 1/2 5/8 Ram Shaft seal 1 112 3/32 1/2 11/16 Cap seals 2 024 1/16 1-1/8 1-1/4 Piston 1 214 1/8 1 1-1/4 Fittings 2 012 1/16 3/8 1/2 Pump Spacer plate 2 034 3/32 2-1/8 2-1/4 Relief valve cap1 013 1/16 7/16 9/16 I hope this helps. The best advice I can give you is to take your valve body with you to the hydraulic supply shop when you buy your o-rings. Well, the above table looks terrible -- tabs and spaces don't line it up. Can anyone give suggestions on how to line it up?

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MPH
Thanks Bob, think Kirks #'s are right. I almost feel to stupid right now to fess up to what my problem was. Seeing how the lift on the landlord had one of the two phillips head bolts loose enough to almost rub the pulley I pulled it off and took the valve body apart to clean it up, and yep, there was that top Oring. Looked in the other one more, dug around more with a small screwdriver, still couldn't find one there. Earlier in the day when I was NAPA they had this oring remover in the 3 dollar box so I went and got one.

with it, I could better feel the grove I been tring to put the oring in was a lot smaller then the one off the landlord, so I dug harder and finally dug out an oring so worn it didn't reflet with a light shinning down the hole and was quite rustted to the top of the grove. Now to put back together and see what I got. Gotta get the landlord back together tonight first, talking snow with this new warm air we got today.

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Wishin2BMowin
Nice O ring tool you got there! Look like you could use it to rip out a tooth if you didn't want to make trip to the dentist! I just got my 3212H hydro lift working after only having to replace the O ring on the piston in the push/pull cylinder. Can't believe how powerfull that hyrdo lift is! With my blower on the tractor I can pick up the whole front of the tractor! Good luck getting your lift working and Happy Holidays...

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