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snyd

Onan starter problem

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snyd
I have an AC620, Onan with a starting problem. For the past few years, I would turn the key to start and it would click, sometimes a few times, sometimes 50 times, then engage the starter and I would be okay. Shame on me for nursing it so long. Now, I get no click at all and the only way I can start it is to jump the solenoid terminals with a flat screwdriver. I had the starter rebuilt a couple years ago, and I believe it to have been done well by a reputible shop. The solenoid was also replaced. I would like to avoid pulling the engine to get going again, but that may not be feasible. It seems as though a few years ago I read some discussions about too much voltage drop, and the need for another auxillary solenoid. Can any of you experts out there point me in the right direction? Much appreciation - thanks!

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UCD
If by jumping the solenoid the starter worked it is not your starter. Clean all of your battery terminals, ground connection and connection to solenoid as well as where the solenoid mounts. The battery cables could also be the problem with internal corrosion. If you can see green corrosion where the terminals are connected to the cables replace the cables. If cleaning all of the connections does not work replace the solenoid.

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Al
Hi, We have a kit that fixes this problem. It sells for 29.95. Ck our website www.repowereng.com. or call us at 1-800-462-2218 This problem is very common on units that have solenoid actuated starters. Often the equipment will work OK when new and as the ign switch and the safety switch contacts get worn, they have to much drop to pull the solenoid in reliably. On units that have solenoid actuted starters, these starters draw from 31 to 40 plus amps to pull the plunger in the solenoid in. Once the solenoid is energized the hold in current is from 10 to 18 amps. Our kit reduces the current the ignition and safety switches and wire has to switch to 0.1 amps. With type of load, the switches will last forever. Usually these things start out that they sometimes won't pull in either really cold or hot. May be you sometimes have to hit the switch a couple of times and then it will start and over time it gets worse and worse. Give us a call and you can quit fighting this problem. Al Eden

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JimS
You might try moving the clutch switches with the ignition held in the start position. I sometimes have to do this on mine because the switch is not making a good contact. You could also jumper out the neutral start switch to see if that is your problem.

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snyd
quote:
Originally posted by ikipp
? where is the solenoid. I have the same problem on a Simp. 4041. Can someone send a pic of the solenoid assembly.
Mine is located on top of the starter - if you shine a flashlight between the frame and side of the engine you can see some of it.

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snyd
quote:
Originally posted by JimS
You might try moving the clutch switches with the ignition held in the start position. I sometimes have to do this on mine because the switch is not making a good contact. You could also jumper out the neutral start switch to see if that is your problem.
Funny thing - I had to move my clutch switches the same way for the last few years, thought it would work forever. Now, I think I'll go with the kit mentioned in this forum to try to fix it.

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snyd
Great - I'll be calling you tomorrow!
quote:
Originally posted by Al
Hi, We have a kit that fixes this problem. It sells for 29.95. Ck our website www.repowereng.com. or call us at 1-800-462-2218 This problem is very common on units that have solenoid actuated starters. Often the equipment will work OK when new and as the ign switch and the safety switch contacts get worn, they have to much drop to pull the solenoid in reliably. On units that have solenoid actuted starters, these starters draw from 31 to 40 plus amps to pull the plunger in the solenoid in. Once the solenoid is energized the hold in current is from 10 to 18 amps. Our kit reduces the current the ignition and safety switches and wire has to switch to 0.1 amps. With type of load, the switches will last forever. Usually these things start out that they sometimes won't pull in either really cold or hot. May be you sometimes have to hit the switch a couple of times and then it will start and over time it gets worse and worse. Give us a call and you can quit fighting this problem. Al Eden

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iweld
When I had my 9020 down for the power steering addition I addressed the problem with the clutch switches. I removed the switches and carefully opened them up. I was surprised that they even worked by the looks of them inside. I cleaned the contacts thoroughly with steel wool and then coated them with electrical corrosion prevention grease. They now work flawlessly. Now if I could just get the stupid alternator to work...

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