Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

  • Announcements

    • Kent

      Sign In or Password Problems?   10/09/2016

      If you can't Sign In, you need to reset your password.  Use the Forgot Your Password link at the bottom of the Sign In screen, and the site will send you an email to reset it. If you have an AOL email account, use the Contact Us link at the bottom of the screen -- AOL is intermittently blocking email from the site.
    • Kent

      Feedback Please!   10/28/2017

      See News and Announcements forum.
Sign in to follow this  
dbf

Landlord 2110

Recommended Posts

dbf
Good Day All, I just today purchased a Landlord 2110 from a neighbor of mine in 'good' condition. It came with a snow blade, blower, mowing deck and sickle bar mower. The tractor is not running at the moment, as the gas tank is in my basement thawing out!! Another reason is, he started converting the unit over to an automotive coil system, but never finished. The coil is there. He momentarily jerry-rigged in the summer when he bought the unit to see if it would work, which it did. He just never finished the job. I have read the article written by Ken Williams on converting a magneto to a coil, but I'm not certain if all the information in his article is fully understood by me. Since I'm a somewhat 'amp/ohm' challenged individual, I was wondering if any of you could pass on any BTDTs, with basic diagrams if possible. Any information would be greatly appreciated. As well, is the Landlord (10hp) too light to expect to plow and blow snow with?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Keep in mind that you will probably need to change the ignition switch from the magneto type which grounds the ignition when turned off, to the type used with the Kohler engines that had the battery-coil ignitions in order to have the ignition feed wire when the switch is turned to on. You cannot feed the coil from the accessory terminal on the original switch because this terminal does not supply power when the switch is turned to the start position. There are basically three different ways of wiring up this setup: 1. Replace the ignition switch with one from a battery-coil ignition tractor. (AC with Kohler engine). 2. Use existing (magneto type) switch with ignition wired to acc terminal and install a push-button starter switch 3. Install a starter solenoid from an older Ford vehicle that had a battery-coil ignition. These solenoids had an extra terminal on them that was energized during starting and can be used to supply power to the coil during starting, when using the existing (magneto type) ignition switch with the coil wired to the acc terminal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karl_Brandt
This tractor was made to do lots of different jobs in the garden or mowing the lawn etc. Right now I'am working on the same tractor Allis Chalmers B-110 same as a Landlord 2110.My tractor is all a part, bevel box needs a new driven shaft and bearings & motor needs oversize or just rebuilt another motor. [url]www.simplicityva.com[/url] Karl

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dbf
quote:
Originally posted by HubbardRA
Keep in mind that you will probably need to change the ignition switch from the magneto type which grounds the ignition when turned off, to the type used with the Kohler engines that had the battery-coil ignitions in order to have the ignition feed wire when the switch is turned to on. You cannot feed the coil from the accessory terminal on the original switch because this terminal does not supply power when the switch is turned to the start position. There are basically three different ways of wiring up this setup: 1. Replace the ignition switch with one from a battery-coil ignition tractor. (AC with Kohler engine). 2. Use existing (magneto type) switch with ignition wired to acc terminal and install a push-button starter switch 3. Install a starter solenoid from an older Ford vehicle that had a battery-coil ignition. These solenoids had an extra terminal on them that was energized during starting and can be used to supply power to the coil during starting, when using the existing (magneto type) ignition switch with the coil wired to the acc terminal.
I figured that, although after closer inspection tonite, the ignition key switch has been taken out of the loop. There is a push button start button does not look 'stock'. The guy I bought the tractor from mentioned that it ran fine when he bought it. He just started the conversion, but did not finish. Did these tractors come with push button ignitions? Man, I just thought of something. Stopping this thing will be a pain. I'll have to choke it out everytime I want to shut her down. As a side, I was just talking to my Dad and he has an old CD ignition in his basement he built years ago for one of his bikes . I think I'll retofit that into my rig when I get her running. I figger 35k volts is better than whatever that coil will produce. A good hot spark for those cold winter starts!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
dbf, You can use a pushbutton to activate the starter, but you will need at least a toggle switch to turn off power to the coil to shut off the engine. You can use the choke trick on a magneto ignition, but a coil that is hooked to the battery can draw current even though the engine is not running, if the engine stops with the points closed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dbf
Yes, shoot, you are right. I never thought of that. Ok then, if I ran a wire from the hot terminal on the push button switch, through a toggle, then on to the coil, would I be doing the right thing. If so, what gauge wire should I use and what size toggle (you know, how beefy should it be?)? Thanks for the heads up Hubbs, Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Usually I go through the toggle and then to the push button. That way the starter will not work unless the ignition is on. It will work the way you said, but the starter button is active even when the ignition is off. 16 ga wire is probably adequate. One other thing that you may want to check. I am not sure of the wiring on that tractor, but sometimes the charging circuit goes through the ignition switch to prevent closed contacts in the voltage regulator from running down the battery when the ignition is off. If the original switch has been removed and the charging wire from the voltage regulator is not hooked to the battery either directly or somehow thru the toggle switch, then the battery will not charge. On the one tractor that I have a toggle on, I used a double pole, double throw switch so that I could connect both the charging wire and the ignition wire to the battery when on, but disconnect both when off. You cannot connect the charging wire to the same terminal as the ignition because the generator will feed the coil even when the switch is turned off and the tractor will continue to run. You may be able to hook the charging wire directly to the battery positive terminal. Just not sure if this will drain the battery when off. I don't have a diagram of that wiring that I can get to at this time so I can't check it out for sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
clyde
I think the starter / charge wiring on your tractor should look like this (at least originally): [img]/club2/attach/clyde/orig.jpg[/img] And with the setup Rod discussed, it should look like this: [img]/club2/attach/clyde/mod.jpg[/img]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MPH
Rod, I kinda like my push button starters sired so they are hot with the key off, find it handy in the shop, esp with hydro lift, as I can raise the lift without starting the engine. Also, when hooking up attachments its handy to bump the starter a few times to line up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Maynard, great wiring diagram. That one will be printed and put in my tractor file. MPH, the reason that I wire my starter through the switch is to remind this senile old geezer to turn on the ignition before trying to start the engine. Guess I am the only person who has ever tried to start a tractor with the ignition off. Done this many times, when trying to jump start directly to the starter, or get one running that has not been completely wired yet. It just makes starting a little more idiot proof. I also like a discharge light to remind me to turn off the ignition, especially if the engine has died on its own.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dbf
I suppose all these diagrams make sense to some people!! Man, oh, man. I never thought wiring an old tractor could be as confusing as this. Since I'm a n00b here, a little about myself, just so all of you know a little about my 'expertise'. I'm 39 and consider myself a shade-tree wrench twister. I've always had a passion for all things relating to automobiles and internal combustion engines (both gasoline and diesel) and I can attempt most anything in my shop....mechanical that is. I own 3 cars, all 1980’s vintage and a 2002 Ram Quad Cab. When it comes to electrics mind you, I’m somewhat brain dead. That’s where all of you will hopefully help. Tonight’s endeavor was to get spark, which I managed to achieve. I don’t have the carburetor on the tractor yet, so I can’t fire it. Since I can’t post a picture (I can’t understand why) I’ll try to explain what I did and why it doesn’t make too much sense to me. If you refer to the first diagram that Clyde posted for me you will see that the points and condenser should go directly to the “ - “ post on the coil, with the other side of the points going to ground. Now, on my machine there are 2 solid copper core wires that come from the magneto. One is shorter than the other and it goes directly to ground. The way I had to hook it up for spark was the condenser went to ground using the short wire from the mag and the other wire from the mag went to the “ – “ post on the coil. I’m just a little confused. If this is the way to convert the rig over, then so be it. If not, can anyone offer any further suggestions? As a side, I picked up a single throw toggle switch today as well, which I’ll use to isolate the coil and kill switch. I would appreciate any insights any of you would have. Thanking you all in advance, Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rokon2813
Rod, is to remind this senile old geezer to turn on the ignition before trying to start the engine. Guess I am the only person who has ever tried to start a tractor with the ignition off I dont think so. :D My B has had a dead battery more than once, even cleaned the points once, because nobody turned the key. :o) true also with the kids pullers. They are set up without charging systems, and have a toggle switch for "kill" but a key switch to start. No idea how many times I had to jump them for the kids because the key was on but the toggle was off. ;):D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rokon2813
And a big thanks to Maynard for the drawings, one of those pullers needs to push snow this winter, and it would be nice to have it chargeing. :D Since there is virtually no wiring in them, now I know what I need.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×