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TomL

Magnatron Adjustment

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tej
First check to see if the flywheel key is still straight. If the flywheel nut is not torqued to the recommended foot pounds the flywheel will slip and the timing will be off. You can bypass the mag by using an ignition coil for testing or you can just switch it over to a coil.

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TomL
I have a 3112H that I just put a 16HP shortblock into. I was and am again, having problems starting. I believe it to be in the Magnatron adjustment. Anyone have any tips on adjusting these? Is .012 the correct gap setting?

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To Tom Lefler-- from David A. Sohn 6/30/2000 Tom, I believe Jeff is kidding with you. As long as the magnet remains magnetized, it will trigger the magnetron coil... On the other hand-- if it is a left- handed magnet; or made of Japonica; or Magnesium; or has been dipped in Soy Sauce, that's another matter altogether of course. Back to reality, I do have something constructive to write about starting trouble. These tips often help runnability: Be aware that many of the newer fuels are lousy for use in Air- cooled small engines. Many new fuels cause "detonation" effects-- that stresses the engine terribly and shortens its life. Several fuels burn so slowly that the fuel is still burning when it enters the muffler-- this circumstance overheats your muffler; causes reduced power; and can cause backfiring. Cheap, Low octane fuels also may encourage varnish buildup in your carburetor-- and carbon buildup on your valve stems and in combustion chamber. To get around those dilemmas try these ideas: Use the high octane fuels that pass the BMW valve- stem buildup test across 100,000 miles with virtually No valve- stem buildups. Use 93 Octane fuel; AVOID Ethanol- tainted fuel. (I use Amoco 93 Octane). Remove carbon every 100 hours. Ensure proper ignition operation and timing. Ensure your tractor gas tank, Fuel filter; and Fuel line is free of contaminants. Keep carburetor clean and properly adjusted. Store gasoline properly in airtight container. Never use old gas. Store your engine properly if to sit more than a month-- including siphoning out old gas then running engine till dies from lack of fuel in carburetor. Change Oil every 20 hours (or MORE frequent-- especially during cold weather or more dusty environments). Use 30 Wt. Pennzoil summertime; and 10W-30 Pennzoil wintertime. Ensure proper air filter maintenance. On Kohler K- Series engines, frequently clean and Oil (30 Wt) the foam prefilter around the airfilter. Ensure No Dirt is Bypassing the Air Filter. Use of Heavy Grease on the air filter lip may help prevent dirt bypass. Change the paper air filter frequently. On engines with all-foam air cleaner, frequently clean them, dry them properly-- and most important: Oil them thoroughly (3+ tablespoons 30 Wt). Work the oil through the entire filter, and wring out excess. It is the oil that "traps" the dirt going through an all-foam filter. So-- Lack of oil in the foam air filter makes the filter basically useless and lets the dirt go right on into the engine and damage it. Also, ensure that your choke is operating properly-- including proper function of cables and linkages. And I like what Jeff said about the need to properly tighten the flywheel nut and ensure the flywheel key is not sheared.

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TomL
David & Jeff, FYI, I e-mailed Briggs & Straton, They replied that you do not need to polarize the flywheel when switching to a Magnetron. But if you wish to have it done, they will do it for free. They included the address to send it to, so if anyone needs it, e-mail me. But watch the shipping method. They get alot of them that the magnet is knocked off during shipping, then you need to buy a new one, because they cannot be repaired. David, thanks for the tips, I use 93 octane, but do not pay attention to the ethanol factor. I will in the future. I will print off your recommendations and keep them as referance, and compare them to the owners manual recommendations. [A href='I']I[/a]

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