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Al

Big Tire Pics and Red X help

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Al
Hi, We just put a set of wide tires on a 7116 that we repowered a year ago. Thought somebody might be interested in the banded rims etc. These rims were split and bands added to take them out to 11 inches bead to bead. [img]/club2/attach/Al/DSCN1708Sim11rimAnd12Tire copyRed.JPG[/img] Side view of the rims [img]/club2/attach/Al/DSCN1710Banded11rim copyRed.jpg[/img] End view of the widened rim [img]/club2/attach/Al/DSCN1711End Vw11wideRim copyRed.JPG[/img] Side view of tractor with tires on. [img]/club2/attach/Al/DSCN1712.SideVw7116BigTire copyRed.JPG[/img] Rear view of the tractor with 24" of rubber laying on the ground [img]/club2/attach/Al/DSCN1713RearVw26x12 copyRed.JPG[/img] This is a picture of a tire filler we through together using a horse drinking tub. It is gravity flow. We usually just break the beads and pour the fluid in tubless. On these we had to fill the tubes, so we threw this together. It works well with gravity, it just takes some time. We put a T in and hooked a vacuum pump up and would shut the valve on the tank off when the tub was empty. Then we turned on the vacuum pump and opened the valve and sucked out the air until we got fluid. We then shut off the Vac valve and turned on the fluid. It speeds the process up. We can just dump fluid in and it will run in and then it burps and runs in some more. Works well we usually put about 10 gal in each of these big tires. This is how we did it. Al Eden. Thanks to whoever fixes the red X problem. I am hesitant to post pics because I can't seem to fix theses. Thanks again to whoever helps me. Al

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Al
Hi, Is this a program like photoshop? I size these to 8" which is 500 and something by. Maybe I should use exactly 640. Whoever fixed these Thanks a million. I have ran these this way for years and not had any excessive problems. These tires are off a 712 that is going to la la land. The best part of these is that you can mow some awful banks and ride in the seat. THE BIGGEST DANGER IS THAT THEY WILL CLIMB UNTIL THE FRONT END COMES UP AND ONE HAS TO BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN GOING UP REALLY STEEP HILLS. However with these tires you don't have to go up and down to mow it. You just drive it where ever you want to go. You can go uphill sideways and just stop and backup anywhere you want to. AL

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RayS
Al, I bought this software from this site http://www.jpegwizard.com/ and for $29.00 I haven`t had a problem posting pictures since. The software is real easy to use and it does a great job of compressing pictures.

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comet66
Nice job Al! How wide is the actual tire patch with those great wheels? I know what you mean about stability on a slope. My 1920 has 26 X 12 X 12, turf's on it with 54# of weight on each, and if the slope is steep enough, the rear will actually start to slip down hill before it becomes tippy.

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HubbardRA
Elon, I have made a couple of sets of wheels like the ones Al made. Don't know if you remember from GOTO, but the wheels on my 61 Wards were 10.5 wide with 23x10.5x12 tires on them and the wheels on my AC713S were 12 inches wide with 26x12x12 tires on them. There are basically two ways of widening the wheels: It looks like the wheels Al has are "butt" welded. In other words, you cut the rims apart and insert a ring that fits flush with the original pieces so that it looks like a one piece wheel when finished. This is the way my 12 inch wide wheels were done (traded for them that way). You can also put them together with an overlap weld joint. In an overlap the ring is made just large enough that the two pieces of the original wheel slide inside the ring and then the pieces are welded together. This is the easiest way to widen the wheel. My 10.5 width wheels were made this way (I did those). I have done two sets myself, both with overlap joints. I cut out the steel to make the rings, then took it to a local machine shop and had it run through a roller to shape it into a ring. I left it a little long so it would overlap when I put the pieces together. That way I could mark it on the wheel and cut it precisely to fit. I put together some screw clamps to go around the ring and clamp it to the wheel until tack welding was finished. I also used a gage rod to make sure that I kept the width between beads the same all the way around during setup. Remember that the width can be adjusted during setup and tacking with an overlap weld but is solely controlled with the fit of the pieces on a butt weld. The overlap is visible on the inside of the wheel when using this type of process, but all of my weld is inside the area covered by the tire. I also painted the outer edge of the rims silver up to the joint, so that the overlap wouldn't be seen as anything other than a line where the paint was taped off. This way, most people don't notice the overlap. If you go with a butt weld, it is difficult and very time consuming to get a really good butt alignment of the metal so that it won't be noticed. Also keep in mind that there is around 5 feet of weld on one of these wheels, so be prepared with several pounds of rod and plenty of time and patience.

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Al
Hi, They are 11 inches inside to inside of the bead flange. Tru-powers. Went to Cedar Rapids Tire and looked at 3 These seemed the flattest. Had a tractor puller friend do them. I didn't have time. He Just takes a plasma cutter and cuts them just inside of the drop center and then rolls a band and grinds the rim edges flat and welds them up. He charged us 50.00 to do the pair. Don't know if there is a personal discount and favor or if he will do them for others. I know he does them for other people in their club. He is about 110 miles from me. One of my best friends owns a tire company and has a route in that area also, so he does the pup and del for me. These were pretty narrow and the band is probably 5". The ones I have done, I rolled the band using a piece of 6" channel iron and laid it edges up and a 4 pound hammer. Measure the circumference of the rim and cut the steel about 8" longer. Lay the steel accross the channel and hit in the center and move it about an inch and repeat, keep going around unitl it is like you want it. I just keep hitting it in the center of the channel and turning it. Keep checking it against the rim and working it round. You have to cut the first 3 inches off because you can't get it bent. It is a project that one can do at home if you have a blue wrench and a welder. Al Eden

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UCD
Al I fix most of the pictures here unless Kent gets to them first. Your photo shop program should do the job. Open the picture with Photo Shop resize to 640x480 (a standard photo size) rename file with out spaces or symbols, ! @ # $ % ( ) ^ & * click on file, save as, (with new file name so you don't loose original) This file should then upload and display with out problems. You do not need to buy a photo editing program. Click here >>   [url="http://www.irfanview.com/"][img]http://www.irfanview.com/images/iview_logo.gif[/img][/url]    is a free download and is very easy to use

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HubbardRA
Here is a picture of the wheels that I talked about above. The butt welded wheels are on the rear tractor, and the lap welded wheels are on the front tractor. On the front tractor, the silver rim on the wheel ends at the edge of the overlap on the joined pieces. [img]/club2/attach/HubbardRA/WideWheels.jpg[/img]

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Al
Hi, We added about 10 inches to the width, this gives you a lot. When you add the fluid it puts the weight way out on the upper side and the fluid is laying on the bottom of tire. The tire has significantly less air with the fluid in. As a result the bottom tire doesn't compress or squeeze down as far when the weight transfes, and the upper one has less air trying to expand, so the upper will have less tendency to ballon out and try to raise the upper side. The width probably makes the biggest difference, but the weight makes it happen and the ride is much smoother. Al Eden

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