Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

  • Announcements

    • Kent

      Sign In or Password Problems?   10/09/2016

      If you can't Sign In, you need to reset your password.  Use the Forgot Your Password link at the bottom of the Sign In screen, and the site will send you an email to reset it. If you have an AOL email account, use the Contact Us link at the bottom of the screen -- AOL is intermittently blocking email from the site.
    • Kent

      Feedback Please!   10/28/2017

      See News and Announcements forum.
Ronald Hribar

17 Gth-L

Recommended Posts

Ronald Hribar
My daughter could not get the Kohler started. Ran the battery down. I jumped the battery and got it started. Let it run for about an hour. It started out back fireing and got better later on, but nevever ran smoothly. Shut if off and it would not turn over. . I brought it home , and put battery charger on. Once battery was charged, it started and ran smoothly. 1. Does it take afully charged battery to make it run? 2. is the plug that fits on ignition switch available with pig tails? In loking for possible charging problem, I found some loose connections.and bare wires on back of ignition switch. 3. The intake manifold appears to be cast aluminum. On coil side of motor, there are what i hpe are casting marks, It also could be a hairline crack in manifold. I have not heard of a problem in this area. Would like to say would not have this problem with Briggs, but it happens to them all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ronald Hribar
This Kohler has given me far more problems than the 3 ig Briggs ever did, definetely does not have the power the BRIGGS did blowing snow. The Kohler does well in light snow. But when plowing the plw trucks bank, I have to back off on the Hydro, it seemed like that is what the BRIGGS loved.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
maxtorman1234
That's odd. We had our 917 since it was new in 85. It has done tons of hauling wood, cutting the lawn, blowing snow, and more, we think it has about 3000+ hours on it, never did more than change the plugs and air filter. Just a little while ago, it took the bgb out, and this is the thrid time we've put seals in the rear end.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karl_Brandt
Ron good time to replace that Kohler with a Briggs & Stratton engine. I have seen some Kohler engine wear the piston just above the rings.:(Have not seen a Briggs & Stratton engine piston wear like this.;):D I have seen a 8hp Tecumseh intake manifold cracked before. Karl

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rs07
I am currently looking at a Deutz-Allis 917H with that engine in it at my local dealer. I'll buy it if the price is right. The engine in that one seems to be strong yet. One nice thing about that style tractor with the Kohler twins in them, the frame is already notched out so if you decide to repower it with one of Al Eden's kits, you don't need to do any cutting of the frame to make the new twin cylinder engine fit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ambler
Ron its The five wireplastic fitting that holds the wires at the ignition switch is a standard part at any small engine parts store. Check the switch prongs for corrosion. The wire ends come out of the plastic fitting with a little screwdriver.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ronald Hribar
The fitting is melted, so i will get new fiting, but the wire arew in poor shape next to the fitting. When i would remove bad wires The harness would be too short. Was hopeing i could get a fitting with wires attached , hopefully with correct color code. Some of the terminals on the ignition switch can move. Will this be a problem internally in switch?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ronald Hribar
The reason i asked that question was I thought the battery/coil system operated on very low battery power. I was aware however that the newer electronic systems required more. But Engine ran so much diferently when battery was charged, compared to when it was getting charged up was so dramatic. That i felt there was a connection. However i also checked for intake manifold leaks and observered markings in manifold. Still worried about manifold, do not know if i am worried enough to remove it so i can check it correctly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Al
Hi, I have seen a lot of these bad. The problem usually comes on the terminal that the battery is connected to. Due to electrolysis, the switch terminal rusts and corrodes. Then when current is drawn through it it gets hot. Normally cleaning the switch terminal is inadequate, because the rust goes down around the contact crimp to the terminal and you can't get that joint cleaned. The switch most often will need to be replaced. Simplicity addressed this problem several years ago by going to a switch with brass terminals. A year or two later the new switches (with plastic bodies) turned out to be nightmares with internal intermittant problems. Next was a service kit to replace the plastic body swithes with the original INDAK type. If one could buy an INDAK switch with brass terminals it would be the best of 2 worlds. Since INDAK produces the majority of lawn and garder switches and this seems to be their only problem and it doesn't show up until they have been in service for several years, I don't expect to see a change. The terminals for these sockets are available at many automotive supply stores. Normally they require a special crimp tool. Ours was about 75.00. but if you don'have the tool to do the double roll in box type crimp, you can use even a needle nose pliers and the solder the crimp. We stock the plastic sockets and the terminals. If you remove the terminals and cut them off and restrip the wires you will only lose 3/8 of an inch. Personally I prefer that to having another splice it the wires. The terminals have a little tab that sticks out into a little recess in the socket to keep the terminal from coming out. Take a paper clip or small wire. grind it like a screwdriver and push it in the front of the socket and this will push the tab down and let the terminal come out the back. Al Eden

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ronald Hribar
At least two of the wires are mostly bare back a least 1 1/2 inches. I could remove terminals, replace fitting and put heat shrink on wires, but then wire would be very stiff. Does anyone have the fitting that they could sell me with wires attached ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ambler
Ron, I've replace a couple of switches and crimped new conectors on a couple tractors RBTs. Most people don't clean out crud back there and you get corrosion and electrolysis as Al said. I thought the first time it was the draw of the new electric lift, but it was the old switch. give you 200 sight unseen to remove the trouble from you of that nasty kohler.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ronald Hribar
It really is a Simplicity problem.I personally favor coil setup of Kohler.Did the 20Hp bolt in. Was it from SunStar or was it an Eden kit?What is difference in motors between these two? Would Eden kit take care of electrical load on switch?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rokon2813
Is this the piece you are looking for ? I went in my "junk" bucket and found it. No idea what brand it is from, so the colors may not be the same. If the terminals move on the switch, I would still replace the switch too. No idea of a new plug comes with wires or not, but this one has 4 or 5 inches attached. I popped a couple of the terminals out and they are not corroded. If it will help you, pay the shipping and you can have it. [img]/club2/attach/rokon2813/jan10902.jpg[/img]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ronald Hribar
That is the aftermarket part. I was looking for Simplicity part like it so the color code was the same. I do appreciate that you made the effort to see if you had the part for me. Thank you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ronald Hribar
I was wrong. For some reaso or other I had it in my head that fitting was white, but when i went out to look. There is ame thing that you pictured. I'll take it. will email you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
stevenj
quote:
Originally posted by Al
Hi, I have seen a lot of these bad. Due to electrolysis, the switch terminal rusts and corrodes. Then when current is drawn through it it gets hot. Next was a service kit to replace the plastic body swithes with the original INDAK type. If one could buy an INDAK switch with brass terminals it would be the best of 2 worlds. Since INDAK produces the majority of lawn and garder switches and this seems to be their only problem and it doesn't show up until they have been in service for several years, I don't expect to see a change.
OK - now you've got me a worried. I just replaced the wiring harness in a GTH-L that I bought used. Many of the wires had multiple splices and others appeared to have been melted and all the insulation was missing and the bare wires were just taped over. I re-used the ignition switch. The switch had an aluminum body with silver terminals on the back which I assume were zinc coated steel. There was some rust and white corrosion on the terminals so I cleaned them up with a wire brush, but you got me thinking that I may have problems down the road. At $145.00 for the new wiring harness, I don't ever want to buy another harness. Do you have a part number and supplier for the INDAK switch with the brass terminals? Should I just replace the ignition switch with a new one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

×