ambler 0 Posted January 14, 2005 I have a couple tanks to clean up. I bought some Exrust from Kanolabs makers of kroil. Anyone have experience with it? Whats in it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomMaryland 0 Posted January 14, 2005 Ambler, The MSDS on it says 20-40% phosphoric acid, emulsifier 5-10%, wetting and cleansing agents 1-5%, inert non hazardous 40-60%, proprietary 5-10% They claim that with little cleanup your ready to prime, and I've found that to be true, just don't let it dry or your in for much more work. I've found the easiest way to use it is mix a solution, and immerse whatever your removing rust from. Then immediately rinse and your done. Also, if somethings a little greasy or oily it cuts that too. How about a solution poured right in the tank? It works in a few hours too, by the way, you can see it happening. Before and after pics possible? Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ambler 0 Posted January 14, 2005 Pics are a sure thing. The grey film washes off? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomMaryland 0 Posted January 14, 2005 Yep, it does, I usually scrub after rinsing thoroughly. Gloves are a must, its nasty on your skin. I'm wondering if it reacts with carbon (surface migration?) to produce the grey film.. Maybe I'll play with different steels to see the effect. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HubbardRA 19 Posted January 14, 2005 Phosphoric acid chemically reacts with rust (iron oxide) to form iron phosphate (a rust inhibitor), which is a protective coating. This may be the gray coating you are talking about. If so, then you probably don't want to try and remove it. Just paint over it. The washing with water is a way of neutralizing the acid to stop any additional chemical reaction and make the part safe to handle. This is my opinion, but I am not a chemist, so use accordingly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
powerking_one 0 Posted January 14, 2005 Ambler, I am a proponent of phosphoric acid based rust removers/converters. Others in the club are not. Rod is correct in that unlike other acids, P.A. leaves a film of iron phosphate which is a natural rust inhibitor. Hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) is much too harsh on iron based materials on the other hand. Leave the grey iron phosphate coating there; maybe sand it smooth first before painting. Tom(PK) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roy 0 Posted January 14, 2005 Tom(PK), I'm with you on the use of phosphoric acid. I like it and have used it successfully for years. Nice to know someone else uses the stuff. Cheers, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ambler 0 Posted January 14, 2005 Actually the rust is inside the gas tanks. I plan to do a gross clean out, then fill them up for three hours, pour the solution into next tank and hose them out. No painting yet. I will use it for deck preping this spring fefore primaring. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ambler 0 Posted January 14, 2005 Phosphoric acid may be used by direct application to rusted iron or steel tools or surfaces to convert iron oxide (rust) to a water soluble phosphate compound. It is usually available as a greenish liquid, suitable for dipping (acid bath), but is more generally used as a component in a gel, commonly called Naval jelly. As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces. Care must be taken to avoid acid burns of the skin and especially the eyes, but the residue is easily diluted with water. When sufficiently diluted can even be nutritious to plant life, containing the essential nutrients phosphorus and iron. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". It should not be directly introduced into surface water such as creeks or into drains, however. After treatment, the reddish-brown iron oxide will be converted to a black iron phosphate compound that may be scrubbed off. Multiple applications may be required to remove all rust. The resultant black compound does not provide any further corrosion resistance (such protection is somewhat provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing process). After application and removal of rust using phosporic acid compounds the metal should be oiled (if to be used bare, as in a tool) or appropriately painted, most durably by using a multiple coat process of primer, intermediate, and finish coats. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites