Walk-behind snowblower

[skot71 0]

I have a Simplicity Snowbuster 524 walk-behind snowblower. Currently, it won't start. It'll fire if I spray in starting fluid. So it's not getting gas, right? The gas line looks old, and I'm guessing it's original. I think it's about a 1980 model, or close to that. There's a prime bulb that comes through the engine shroud, and when I push it, it doesn't sound or feel like it's doing anything. The engine is a Tecumseh. To get to this prime bulb and fuel line, the shroud has to come off, which means a couple of head bolts have to come out. I'm not too confident on taking these apart, since I never have. Should I just tear into it? Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem may be, or have any experience taking these apart? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, since I had to borrow my neighbor's small Snapper snowblower over the weekend!

[Wishin2BMowin 0]

Sometimes the needle & seat in the carb get stuck and it won't let the gas in the fuel bowl. Try tapping the carb lightly with a hammer where the gas line goes in. This may work. If not then it could be just gummed up with old gas and you will have to drop the fuel bowl and clean it up. Could also be the fuel line is clogged as well. Go to the auto parts store and get a spray can of carburator cleaner for the carb and some sea foam or other type of gas additive that will clean up the gas tank as well. Best of luck...

[Mick14 0]

Having to remove the head bolts isn't all that bad,your gonna have to get at the carb to fix it..just go slow and try to remember what went where,it may just be dirty,i wish i knew of a site that covered the Tecumseh's ,they are pretty simple.

[dirtsaver 1]

Scott down here in Kentucky we rarely have enough snow to warrant using a blower very often. Sometimes people don't even start them for a year or two and then when they're needed....... volia! they will not start. Diagnosis= varnish in the carb from stale fuel. Go ahead and take down the carb and clean it and put in a kit while it's down,replace the old fuel line and the primer bulb. That will save you from tearing it all down in a few days. As Mick says, go slow,keep track of what came from where and it's no big deal. After you get it up and going, start it every few weeks year round and keep fresh gas in it. Stale fuel/limited usage is the cause of 95% of the service tickets I write for snow throwers and generators at the shop.

[D-17_Dave 12]

IMO, if your gonna run it, replace that injun engine with a briggs. If you really want to keep it orriginal, bite the bullet and replace the carb. and other stuff to do with the fuel system as Larry and the others mentioned. These carbs. were crap and know for trouble when fuel sat in them. Good luck with it, Dave.

[skot71 0]

Thanks for all the info guys! I started it a couple of times this summer, but it'd been 2-3 months since I last did. I thought about stale gas or varnish, but the dry sounding primer bulb led me in that direction. I'll follow your advice and try to get it running myself. This site is just great. And it's definately cheap at 10 bucks a year.

[oots 0]

These guys no what they are talking about. I cant tell you anything the others just said it for me.

[KVANDY12 0]

The simple thing to do if your not going to run a motor for some time is to empty the gas tank and run the motor to get all the gas out of the carb. Theres also additives to add to gas when the motor is goning to set for a long time.

[Kent 435]

Also, Stabil is a great additive for you gas, to keep it from going bad...

[HubbardRA 19]

If that carburator is one of the newer types that has a fixed main jet(non-adjustable), it may be plugged. I have had to take several apart and use a small wire to clean out the varnish that was plugging the small hole in the jet. If it is plugged, DO NOT DRILL OUT THE HOLE. The hole size governs the flow of fuel. If the varnish is totally plugging the hole it will not start. If it is partially plugging the hole, then the engine will need to be run on choke all of the time. If you make it bigger than needed, then it will constantly run rich and flood the engine. In other words, you can't put the metal back after you remove it, so just pay attention and only remove the varnish coating, not any metal.