babbsrw Posted February 2, 2005 Posted February 2, 2005 WOrking to get a 410S running. Kohler 10 HP K241S engine. No spark, did the coil check test mentioned in the tech section and it is bad so will buy one of those. Installed new battery, but starter will not crank with key. When I connect the battery directly to the starter it turns over great. I have cleaned the connections and put dielectric on them. So I believe it is key switch, fuse, or starter solenoid. Checked the fuse and it isn't the problem. So question I have is there a way to check the solenoid with a tester? And are replacement selenoids readily available are part stores? Or is there something else I should check? thanks, Rich
10HorseMan Posted February 2, 2005 Posted February 2, 2005 One thing to check is that there is a ''nub'' on the shift rod ''all you have to do is lift the seat'', and make sure that it is pushing the safety switch all the way in. There is an adjustment to move the switch up and down. The Solenoids are most of the time readily available.
babbsrw Posted February 3, 2005 Author Posted February 3, 2005 Did that, the seat safety switch has been disconnected and the wires connected to each other. I'm assuming that is a permanent fix to that. I'm going to the parts store today and will pick up a solenoid and coil. Thanks.
Ronald Hribar Posted February 3, 2005 Posted February 3, 2005 Do you have power coming out of switch and reaching solenoid? Do you have power coming from switch and reaching coil. Common factor in your two problems is ignition switch. Second factor could be ground.
babbsrw Posted February 3, 2005 Author Posted February 3, 2005 Makes sense and haven't checked that. Not sure how to check with my meter. Do I check for voltage or current and where do I touch the leads on the meter? Thanks Rich.
UCD Posted February 3, 2005 Posted February 3, 2005 Check for voltage. Connect the ground lead of meter to battery ground post and use the positive lead of meter to check voltage at various points in circuit.
babbsrw Posted February 3, 2005 Author Posted February 3, 2005 Ok, with the good advice above I'm getting closer. Found out that power is not coming out of ignition switch. So I will replace that. Traced wiring, and it is not standard, but I figured it out. I bypassed the bad ignition switch and the starter turns the engine over well. But still no spark. Also bypassed the bad ignition switch to get 12 volts at the coil. I know I said earlier that the coil didn't check good, but now that I have figured out how to use the multimeter, the coil checks good. Points are opening and closing. My next try is to replace points and condensor? Thanks & having fun. Rich
Ronald Hribar Posted February 3, 2005 Posted February 3, 2005 Points are probably good, you may have to clean with file. Just very lightly. Make sue that they close, they do not have to open very much. Condensers do fail. How are you checking for spark ?. Is it possible that plug is bad? that is a cheap and easy fix. Most of the time it is simple things that need fixing.
babbsrw Posted February 4, 2005 Author Posted February 4, 2005 Ok, I really am lost for what to do next. Replaced ignition switch and good power to starter circuit and ignition circuit. 12 volts both side of coil and at points. Replaced condensor, points, good coil (from other 10 HP Kohler tractor which is working), spark plug wire, new spark plug. Still no spark. Anyone have a next step to check. Only think left on the wirking diagram is regulator/rectifier and alternator, but I didn't think those affect spark. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Rich
maxtorman1234 Posted February 4, 2005 Posted February 4, 2005 It should run. Did you set the point and plug gap to specs? Even though the plug is new it may be bad. I'd try it in another engine to see. Condencer could still be bad also. The regulator and altenator do not effect spark
Ronald Hribar Posted February 4, 2005 Posted February 4, 2005 one side of coil is ground, Maynard has good wiring diagram posted recently.I think it was in Tech tips. If I remember correctly the points just completes and break the circuit to the coil.
babbsrw Posted February 5, 2005 Author Posted February 5, 2005 Ok, please don't howl too much, readjusted the points. Although the seemed to be set to .020, they we not closing and making contact. Lots of spark now and engine is running. Next issue is too much fuel in carb. Engine running, but with air filter off you can take a shower. Adjusting the screws closed doesn't fix, so looking for the culprit. thanks, and will take carberator help also. Rich
UCD Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 Dirt in the needle seat or a worn needle seat not allowing the float to shut off the fuel coming in to the fuel bowl. Or it could be a worn jet that can only be closed so much.
maxtorman1234 Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 Could also be a hole in the float, or it could be sticking.
babbsrw Posted February 6, 2005 Author Posted February 6, 2005 It was the float. I downloaded the carb pics from Kohler website and took off the bowl on bottom of carb. After study it was obvious float had been installed upsidedown. Fixed that and with readjustment of two fuel needles engine runs perfect. Great week, went from not knowing much about engines to understanding basics of ignition system. I can see why this could get addicting. Thanks for help. Mower blades turn hard so next task over winter will be to replace bearings in that. Will also try to post pictures of two tractors soon. Thanks again for help. Rich
Recommended Posts