Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Engine rebuilt ,,,but won't start??


phil

Recommended Posts

OK guy's installed the new rod on my 19 d ,,,but can't get it to start ,I have spark and am able to get couple kicks outa it with quick start,,can run for about 15 seconds on it ,,but then dies ,,it ran great before replacing the rod,, no trouble with the carb ,but kinda looks like now getting the go go juice ,,I'm taking off the carb ,but have no replacement parts ,,anything obvious I'm overlooking ???
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would agree that your timing is off. The same thing happened to me with an old vertical shaft briggs. I had great spark everytime I checked, it would sputter, and then die everytime. I had tighted the flywheel nut what I thought was tight, but it wasn't tight enough. It actually stretched the flywheel key enough to throw it out of time. I finally torqued the nut to specs which was much tighter than I had before. Problem solved.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't have the flywheel off though ,,just the nut holding the shroud on ..I can run it with the starter fluid by squirting it in the carb ,but ???I'll go crank on the flywheel nut
Link to comment
Share on other sites

While you are that close, you might take the flywheel nut off and look under the washer to see if the key is partially shered.When an engine throughs a rod, it often takes the key with it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it'll run on starter fluid, it should run on gas if it's getting any. It dosen't have to run good but if it won't fire at all I'd check the fuel flow. Pull the main needle off the carb and see if gas comes out the bottom of the carb. It should flow freely. Then make sure the choke and throtle linkage is properly connected and working, closeing the choke fully. Finally, Pour a few spoonfuls of gas down into the carb throught and see if it fires. If it doesnt on that- Then go to the timeing.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The engine was running when I took it apart ,,just knocking bad ,so I only took the bottem and top off to get at the rod ,,,left carb on and most other stuff,,it will run when squirting starter fluid and if I fill carb ,,,will get back at er tomorrow n try n figure it out thanks for all the advise ,,
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a problem with some of my RBT's if the tank is not full of gas it has problems running I blow into the tank and it will run for a while.I might have problem with the float.If you tiped the engine upside down you might have gotten something in the needle and seat. Just an idea. Bob
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might wann'a try unscrewing the jet needle to see if fuel is getting to the float bowl. I am assuming that its a Flojet Carb. anyway my 2 bob's worth. Cheers w
Link to comment
Share on other sites

unscrewed ,,and getting fuel ,,took gas line off and blew into carb with fuel in line ,,could blow then not then drained jet and filled it again ,,I did check float yesterday in sink to see that it floated ..seemes to start first crack run for 10 sec's then dies ,,,then won't go at all ,,,hour later same thing ,,starter fluid will get it running ,but ???/boy gettin frustrated ,,wishing I had a pull start with a rewind ,,tired of winding that old rope!!!any idea how many turns out on jet and idle screws ??1 1/4 is old standbye,,,
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check your carb and manifold gaskets and throttle shaft for air leaks. A vacume leak can cause the problem. In order for it to run it has to be able to suck the gas into the cyl. Also you might have a valve sticking. Did you install a new Spark plug? A bad plug will also act like this
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Phil, if your getting gas into the carb but not into the engine then after checking the intake gaskets as Maynard suggested, I think I'd pull the carb, flip it and remove the needle and get to the main jet. Pull it out and see if it's stopped up. When you flipped the engine to get to the rod, you may have dried the carb out and a flake of gum inside the carb bowl or a piece of trash stuck over the end of the main jet and stopped it up. If gas is getting into the carb, the main jet is about the only thing that can be stopped up that's left to check.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the little spring that holds the float to the inlet valve plunger in place? It could be that the float doesn't pull the valve open when it calls for gas. Dan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

well gaskets "WERE" OK ,but did take apart to troubleshoot ,,spring on float OK. gonna chekc the main jet again ,,did have it copletely out ,,didn't notice anything ,,BUT!!!check .check double check ..if she runs little on ether valve wouldn't be stuck would it ,,maybe I'll pull the head as well,and check valve movement ,,they were smooth the other day,,,I gotta gear up a ppull start for this beast fingers gettin raw rappin and pullin and rappin ,,well you get the picture..PS thaks for the interest and all the great tips ,,we'll get er ,,,,lets hope before all the snow melts>>>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

UPDATE ,valves not stuck ,jet not plugged up float is filling and stoppping and filling ,,as sposed to ,,needle vavle settings are probably not where there spozed to be ,,gaskets checked and forma gasketed over to make sure no leaks ,,now the ol girl won't start at all ,,,finger raw from cranking and lips raw from using inappropriate language ....going crosscountry skiing today to forget about it for the day ...gonna be looking for new carb I guess,,and a way to put a pull start on the ol pig..
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ronald Hribar
I'm not sure using form a gasket was best idea. Too easy to get pieces of material where they do not belong, AND you are certain that you do not have manifold leaks? Have you tried putting your hand over intake to carb while trying to start motor. I have seen electric drills hooked up to nut on end of flywheel and spun over that way. Also seen electic motor and v belt used.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Flywheel key is sheared imo,you gotta check it remove wheel,if key sheared replace it and you have to torque flywheel to proper torque specs or it'll shear again,,
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Phil! whats going on! I've read all the way to the bottom of this page to see what the mystery was, and no answer! the suspense is too much,please post the answer to this puzzle (soon as your hand heals), :D:D:DNeil
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to agree with the keyway majority but I have seen the plugged muffler situation also. Plenty of electricity, yes? Funny story; similar situation - Did some lower end work on a co workers Crapsman awhile back. Same simptoms as above. Went over everything again and again but ran on starting fluid only. Then one day while trying to be nice to it I noticed the spilled gas from the line was beading. Hmmm?? Turns out that when it broke down he left it out in the yard for months. In went the rainwater thru the vented cap and voila! Hydrogen Power. The down side was the intake valve wasn't thrilled and made me go in there. Live and learn -
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Phil, considering that you have fuel, spark and valves not sticking, is there enough squish and blow? I had a similar problem but had no firing at all, so out came the donk to check flywheel key and guess what? it was intact. so no putting off the inevitable, i started stripping the engine and when the timing cover was removed started looking at the timing. With both valves closed and the engine on compression stroke with piston at TDC, the 1/4" hole in the cam drive gear should line up with a corresponding hole in the block. To check this simply insert a 1/4" drill bit through both holes, if they don't line up the cam drive gear has more than likely slipped on it's taper. Adjust accordingly. For details of reassembly check my post "the Baron is back" and click the link for balancer shaft details. Cheers W
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
UPDATE UPDATE,,,,Sorry that I've not written back to let you all know how I made out with the ol briggs ,,but lifes been busy with long cold days at work and welll you know just lifes ,,,,,ups and downs ,but my ski plans today fell through so back out to the shop .I admit I cheated a bit ,but I got a guy to rebuild the carb for me and he said the fast idle was turned out to far and just floating,,,know idea how or when it might have happened ,but ???I did have it at my work to clean it up ,so lil tweek here lil tweek there!!!!Hey I work with 12 guys in my shop and I know at least 2 or 3 that like to screw around ,,but anyway ,This guy had new gaskets and stuff so for 20 bucks he charged me I figured what the heck ,,eliminate one item ,,,so I just slapped the carb on and second crank she started right up and idled like a dream,,,BRING ON DA SNOW!!!!!! I really thank all you folks for your words of wisdom...now ,,since I only changed the connecting rod do I require to breakin the engine? ,ie not idle ??
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Phil, glad to here you finally got it. I wouldn't much worry about a breakin period if you didn't change the rings. But I wouldn't run it wide open till you see if ther are any issues with the new rod. I wouldn't idle it ethier. Run it half or 2/3 throttle so it gets good oil. It shouldn't take long to see if everythings OK. Then off to work.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
×
×
  • Create New...