landlord2110 Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 whats the best way to take off the muffler? Is it best to take off when engine is hot or does it need to be heated with propane torch? I have the landlord 2110.
MarkM1958 Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 I would run it enought to warm it up, shut her down then spray it with penatrating oil and pipe wrench it after it cools. But thats just me,,, I assume you are talking about a Briggs 10,,,
KSever Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 quote:Originally posted by MarkM1958 I would run it enought to warm it up, shut her down then spray it with penatrating oil and pipe wrench it after it cools. But thats just me,,, I assume you are talking about a Briggs 10,,, I would be careful useing the penetrating oil on a hot surface such as a muffler just after you shut it down. Most penetrating oil is highly flamable. I have had good luck with just useing penetrating oil on the cool muffler and a big pipewrench.
dirtsaver Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 I'm with Kris. I've fought several of these darn things for days. The best way I've found is to spray liberally,wait a day or two, spray again and wait another day. Then use a 24" pipe wrench on the pipe. I hold pressure on the wrench and tap the handle with a 2lb hammer to help loosen things up. DO NOT hit with much force, you only want to loosen the rust in the threads. Sometimes I'll take a few taps on the pipe itself very carefully. Remember the engine is cast iron and may break with excessive force so proceed with care.
gregc Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 I use the same method as Larry. It's worked well for me.
Woodydel Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 If the pipe is stuck: Cut the pipe off leaving 1/8" to 1/4" sticking out of the exhaust outlet. That small "lip" will be where the pin punch is placed first. Insert a hacksaw blade into the pipe stub and carefully cut halfway through the pipe's thickness. Avoid cutting the threads. You're just creating a weak point in the pipe. Use a pin punch to roll the threaded portion of the pipe in and away from the exhaust outlet threads on either side of the cut made previously. Continue rolling the threaded portion inward until the pipe threads have been separated from the outlet threads When you have rolled the pipe threaded portion sufficiently the stub will come out easily. Don't rush, work slowly and deliberately.
dirtsaver Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 Woody that is a method I use quite often but I hesitated to mention it because I wasn't sure how comfortable Roy would be cutting that close to the head. I myself have cut too deep more than once. Your method really is the easiest and fastest once you get the feel for it.
maxtorman1234 Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 I have had good luck getting the engine good and hot, then taking the muffler off with a pipewrench. I also found letting the engine sit for a few days applying penetrating oil also works.
MarkM1958 Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 WOODY, I agree with Larry, that would be for the most advanced toy tinkerer. But don't spray penatrating oil when the engine is HOT but when its warm. Pipe wrench and elbow grease are a good bet.
Dutch Posted February 6, 2005 Posted February 6, 2005 Many of those engines have an electrical conduit type lock nut on the exhaust pipe. Loosen or cut that off first.
callwill Posted February 6, 2005 Posted February 6, 2005 I've had good luck with the warm up the engine & let it cool a while, spray on the penetrant and work it loose with the big pipe wrench, tapping on it. Once i've had it off i have used antiseize when i reinstalled to insure future ease.
landlord2110 Posted February 6, 2005 Author Posted February 6, 2005 Did as all you said-used oil and a little elbow grease and came off easier than I thought it would. Should I use Never Seize on the threads of new muffler?
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