Hydro tank needed

[ehertzfeld]

Here is what I want to do. On my 64 Landlord I want to add a hydro lift. i want it all to be inside the side cover. I plann on making some sort of lever that will stick out of the cover, but the rest of it I would like it to be hidden. So far I have a pump with pulley, and thanks to MDB I have a pulley for the drive shaft. I still have to get a valve and a tank and cylinder. The valve and cylinder isn't a huge problem but the tank.......I have know idea what to use. I have looked and looked but I have not found one that is small enough to fit in there. I was even looking at small fuel tanks but nothing. I have accses to a tig/mig welder so if needed I could add a port to any tank. Any one know of somthing I could use? Elon

[Kent]

Since it isn't pressurized, I'd think any small metal tank would work. Don't forget that it needs a drain plug in addition to a fill plug. My first thought would also be a small metal gas tank, like those found on old lawnmowers or snowblowers. One quart capacity is plenty. Some old cars used a metal coolant overflow tank that held about a half gallon, if you could find one...

[rokon2813]

Elon, take some measurements if you would of what room you think you have. I have a few vintage small metal gas tanks. I'd be willing to donate one for the cost of shipping if I have one that will work. Dan

[ehertzfeld]

Thanks guys. Kent I thought that they only need about a quart. Dan I'll try to take a few measurement. I mite have to wait till spring though, the cab mite be in the way.lol I'll take a look over the weekend. Thanks Elon

[Ronald Hribar]

What about a power steering pump? some have remote tanks

[HubbardRA]

Elon, You can use a power steering pump if you remove the existing tank and tap a pipe thread into the inlet hole. Some are already tapped. The only volume of fluid that you need is about twice the volume of the cylinder rod, because what goes out of one side is going into the other side, with the exception of the rod. I said double because you need a little extra to eliminate any foam and make sure the pump is pumping pure liquid, or else you will get a lot of squeel which will eventually kill the pump. I would use a piece of two or three inch pipe about 8 inches long. If you can find it in the form of a nipple with threads on both ends, then you can use screw on caps. You need to weld in fittings for a fill plug, an outlet fitting, and a return fitting. You should be able to hide this tank inside the tractor frame, if not then put it in the rear under the fenders, as long as it sits above the pump.

[acken]

If you have the welder, why not make the tank? We often build them at work using sqare/rectangular tubing, only have to weld ends on. Whenever possible we put the ports in the ends so that they can be done first. Leave one hole larger for a clean-out. Hopefully you can find a small piece, rather than buying a full stick. We have used up to 12 inch square tube for large tanks, cut to whatever length fits.After welding put an air regulator in, set to about 5 psi, and put in water to find any pinholes.

[ehertzfeld]

quote:

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Originally posted by acken
If you have the welder, why not make the tank? We often build them at work using sqare/rectangular tubing, only have to weld ends on. Whenever possible we put the ports in the ends so that they can be done first. Leave one hole larger for a clean-out. Hopefully you can find a small piece, rather than buying a full stick. We have used up to 12 inch square tube for large tanks, cut to whatever length fits.After welding put an air regulator in, set to about 5 psi, and put in water to find any pinholes.

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Funny you should suggest that today! I have two 2inch box about a foot or so in lenth. I have been wanting to weld one end and then fill them with concrete, then weld the other end. I was going to make some weights for the rear of my Broadmoors. Since I'm seeling most of them I don't need than anymore. Wille in the back of my truck today, I saw them and tought "well I dont need them for weight......and then it hit me, I could make a tank out of them. The only thing I see a problem is that they have quite a bit of rust on and in them. I thought of trying to paint the inside but depending on how long I make it, it mite be difficult to do so. At leased it's an option. Thanks Elon

[tractormike]

I would have second thoughts about painting the inside of the oil tank, in case the paint would come off and get into the pump. Years ago when I worked for the IH dealership we had to take the oil pans off of some new combine engines that someone at the factory had painted inside and out. We had to strip the paint off and put the pans back on. I guess the paint would flake off and plug up the oil pickup screens. I would like to see pictures of this project as you go. Good luck on it!

[rokon2813]

Okay Elon don't think so hard ;):D

3" diameter, about 8" long. Just need to add your "ports" And its shiny clean on the inside [:0]

[HubbardRA]

Elon, The tank that Dan has will work. You can use the fuel line connection to feed the pump. All you need to add is the return line. You might be able to plumb the return line through the screw on cap. You could add a small vent tube to the cap also and use a small rubber hose to run the vent up higher than the tank to prevent oil from leaking out the vent as the return fluid goes into the tank.

[rokon2813]

quote:

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Originally posted by HubbardRA
Elon, The tank that Dan has will work. You can use the fuel line connection to feed the pump. All you need to add is the return line. You might be able to plumb the return line through the screw on cap. You could add a small vent tube to the cap also and use a small rubber hose to run the vent up higher than the tank to prevent oil from leaking out the vent as the return fluid goes into the tank.

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:D:D That works, do all your modifying on the cap. If you screw up once, you can always find another cap. ;)

[ehertzfeld]

Hey Dan.......SOLD!!! let me know $$$$ my zip 06234 Elon

[HubbardRA]

Elon, I just bought a JIC #6 hose fitting that screws into a 1/8 pipe thread. I think that is what is in the tank for the fuel line. This way you can use off-the-shelf hoses. The return hose can be clamped onto the cap fitting with a screw clamp, since there is no pressure on the return to a vented tank. All you have to do is solder or weld in a brass or steel tube to the cap. You can also use a large bolt, drill a hole down the center, and grind the threads off the end of the bolt for the hose to fit on. Use an O-ring under the head of the bolt for a seal, with the head inside the cap. No welding, or soldering with this method. I used this technique to replace a fuel fitting in a plastic gas tank that used a rubber grommet for a seal and to hold the fitting in the tank. The grommet had deteriorated and I couldn't find a replacement. It now has a fitting made from a drilled through bolt. That is on the AC713S that I had at GOTO. No leaks yet and this fitting is on the bottom of the tank.

[Cal]

Elon I have an oil reservoir tank from an early vickers hydro that might be what you want it ha a filter inside. Cal at Yankee sales

[ehertzfeld]

Thanks cal, I'll have to come take a look next week. ELon