Hydrolift on my 716H

[HubbardRA]

I finally got the hydrolift mounted on my AC 716H (with only 10Hp B/S) today. The control valve and lift cylinder were from a Simplicity Sunstar. The lift lever is a shuttle lever from a 410S. With a little modifying and fitting, it looks almost stock.

The connections at the charge pump were easy.

It was rather tight getting the valve, linkage to the lever, and the lines positioned underneath the tractor so that everything had plenty of clearance on the driveshaft, and the connections and the area for the cable lifts were all clear of the hoses. This picture is not very good. It is hard to get a shot from under the tractor with a bright sky overhead.

It works fine. I am waiting for the check valve that I need to boost the pressure. It should be here by the end of the week. Pardon the paint job. I hope to paint it orange in the spring, when I am finished with the modifications.

[D-17_Dave]

Is there room for a bigger diamater cyl. If there is, the added dissplacement of a bigger cyl. will give you a bunch of added lift. It might be a lot cheaper alternative to changeing relief valves in the trans. Just a thought.

[HubbardRA]

No room of a larger cylinder, Dave. A larger cylinder would be in the way of the mower lift cable. Pretty close now. Check valves only about $35.

[johnmonkey]

Nice job Rod. I am looking for a replacement engine for my Kohler KT17 type 1 (on my newly aquired AC 917). It has a broken connecting rod. John H

[oldone]

Rod, I'm glad to see that you finally got that together! Looks the hoses were a pain to get in there. The rocker shaft worked ok then? You seem to be as slow as the mail getting that together!:D:D:D

[MDB]

Looks like a great job to me, glad to see that you got it all together and working.^

[HubbardRA]

Right John, between the mail, and my wife's two eye surgeries, I was delayed a while in getting this together. Even after I thought I had everything ready to go in, I still ran into some hose and fitting problems. At least I know what it takes to do this same installation on the 7116H. On that one I will make a new rear mount for the longer cylinder that I have.

[vfd702]

...this looks good ! ken

[comet66]

That made for a nice clean instalation Rod. Nice work!!

[KVANDY12]

Rod, just got the hyl. lift on my AC914. The lines under the tractor fit real close to the steering on mine. But it sure works good. You have to make sure the springs in the valves in the hydro are not to stife, or nothiong will work. that what I found out anyway.

[Roy]

Nice job Rod.

[HubbardRA]

KVANDY12, Mine works now without changing springs in the check valves on the tranny. I am only installing the correct ones from the parts manual for a Simplicity 7116H with hydrolift. I also have a 7116H without hydrolift that will also get a hydrolift installed at a later time. By the way, The lines that I used are not factory stock. I just bought lines from a local shop and hooked up my own. It would have been a cleaner installation if I had used the steel tubing line the factory did.

[oots]

I see you got it going rod,good looking job rod

[HubbardRA]

By the way, there was something I forgot in the original post. The drawing in the 7116H parts manual is "wrong". If you are hooking up the hoses, don't follow the dotted lines and hook them up as drawn. The notes on the pump tell which port is outlet to implement (this connects to the "in" port on the valve) and the return (this connects to the "out" port on the valve). In other words,the "in" port of the valve connects to the front port on the pump and the "out" to the rear. The dotted lines show the opposite of this. The drawing contradicts itself.

[Kent]

Just curious, since I have a Sundstrand in my hybrid HB-216, with the old type hydraulic lift. Does this control valve from a Sunstar have a float position?

[HubbardRA]

Negative on the float. I also have a valve from a 4041, that doesn't appear to have float either. I was told that it did, by another club member. By the way, both of those valves are identical to the valve pictured for a 7116H, the document I used to set this up. I love the way Simplicity doesn't change parts unless necessary. I plan to use cables for belly and rear lift, and make a sliding rod for the front. This way I can be lift only with float in the down position. A pin through the slider on the front rod can give downforce if needed.

[HubbardRA]

I got the check valve parts today, and installed them. The force produced by the lift was increased tremendously. I could brace my foot against the right side lever and stop the motion before, It would break my leg now. I have to get something rigged so that I can see just how much this thing will lift. It also moves faster, since I installed the correct check valves. The shim shown in the parts breakdown is actually a kit with about 10 thicknesses. Has anybody seen any info on how to shim these check valves? I took a guess at the setup and it works great, but I would like to set it up as it was designed.

[MPH]

Rod, my 4040 has float position, I'd think a 4041 would also.

[HubbardRA]

I took Dan's suggestion today and hooked the hydraulic lift up to raise the Sears Snowblower. It originally had the manual lift lever attached to the front hitch of the blower. I removed that, fabricated a lift arm in its place, made a lift lever for the rockshaft that bolts on where the original tractor lift lever was, and fabricated a slipper rod to give the blower float when it was down. Here it is with the blower on the ground (hydraulics in the fully down position).

Here is another picture with the blower off the ground (hydraulics in the fully up position)

I made the lever on the rockshaft the same as the one on the right side of the tractor, but it only lifts the blower about 4 inches off the ground. I could shorten the one on the blower, which is welded on, but it would be easier to make a longer one for the rockshaft, since it bolts on. By the way, the hydraulics does not even notice that the blower is there. Seems to be working great.

[KVANDY12]

Rod, now you've got me wondering if I have my lines hook up right. Will have to check and see if they are right this week end. Glad you found that out, Thank Ken

[orangeone]

Rod, Where did you get the check valves and how much did they cost

[HubbardRA]

Roger, See my other post about the checkvalves. That post lists all the part numbers that are required. I got the parts from the local Simplicity/AC dealer. The kits are no longer available but the parts can be ordered individually. Cost was about $38, but I did not order the extra cap and o-ring. I modified the original plug.