Arbor Bearings

[dbf]

The 2110 I picked up after Xmas came with a 42" deck, along with all all the other goodies. I really never payed much attention to it, as I was more concerned about clearing snow! For that, I ensured the blower and blade worked, which they did famously. On the weekend I decided to have a look at the deck. I couldn't turn the arbors by hand, so I took the belt off, figuring that was the problem. Turns out, all 3 lower bearings were bad. One of them was siezed solid. I'm one never to be taken down by an old sealed bearing, so I took the 3 arbor assemblies apart (not the bearings) and, using LPS 3, channel locks and some wheel bearing grease, I managed to get all 3 spinning like a charm. Now, with the belt back on, I can turn them effortlessly by hand. I know I'll have to change the bearings, so I have a couple of questions. There is a reputable bearing distributor near where I live that sells sealed bearings at a fraction of OEM prices. I have used them in the past for automotive applications with no problems at all. I just bring in the old bearing to them and they match it up. First question, have any of you ever used non-OEM bearings? And second question is, what is the best way to R & R them? And finaly, should I replace the uppers as well? They are in decent shape. Cheers,

[RayS]

If it were me if I had them apart I would replace them all.

[D-17_Dave]

There are chinese bearings and usa bearings. Some of the chinese bearings are of good quality, some are not. My 2 cents worth, You get what you pay for. You don't have to get the most exspensive OEM bearings, but don't get the cheapest either. Yes, replace both upper's and lower's. You might resurect the old bearings to spin freely. However, the damage has already been done with the rust pitting and corrosion. This causes friction and noise. Whitch in turn will lock up an old bearing and ruin a shaft. The price of a bearing is nothing compared to a shaft. Do the job right the first time and you'll have many years of good trouble free service.

[johnmonkey]

I use the Fafner bearings and have not had to go back in and redo a rebuild of a shaft. I have rebuilt three decks so far. JH

[dbf]

I'm sold. I'll R & R both upper and lower bearings. What is the easiest way to get the inner races off the shaft (if I don't have a proper bearing press)?

[Vinnie_A]

Clean up the arbors buy the new bearings and go to an auto machine shop and let the person there do the swap for you. It will be a 20 minute job with his bearing press.

[KVANDY12]

Can't add anything to what the experts have all ready said. But trying to remove the bearing with a hammer and punch is very hard. I think I had a machine shop do 3 arbors about 4 years ago and they charged $25.00 for the set. since then a bought a press and do my own.

[dhardin]

Good to see you Dan. I have change servral Simlicity bearings, I found the local NAPA auto parts has a good low cost bearings. I cant remember the price but it more than half price compaired to OEM. I allso pulled the iner seal on the top and bottom, and drilled a greese zerk in the housing. Load it up with greese and run it, and shoot some more in. I never had much trouble geting off the brearings on the Lanlord and B110, they designed better. The bearings on my Ac416 was a bear to get off. I ended up having to cut off the pulley and the bearings.

[dbf]

Thanks for the tips guys. I might pull everything apart again tomorrow and investigate the situation further. I'm almost certain the new bearings can be eased on the shaft with an oversized socket and a hammer, but I thought I'd ask first. I'll pick away at it and report back when I get'er done.

[RayS]

The bearings in a 42 inch deck on a 2110 are pressed into the arbor tube assembly or housing and the arborshaft is slid into the bearings, this style of assembly is not a press fit. On the 7100 and maybe some of the 7000 series mower decks the bearings are pressed on to the arborshafts.

[rickf]

all the bearing info, save you the trouble. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=7311 Been there, done that! Not sure of the AC number, but just did my 207 & 112 decks (38",42") and they had the same bearings. Mine were original, bits of AC paint around, 1965 on the seals!. Anyway, the originals were New Departure (now Industry) z9504B that number and the Torrington/fafnir number P204RR6 were the most popular. 1.780"OD, 3/4" bore, 0.605" thick. Other numbers: GBC 8504-88 Industry Z9504B ScHATZ CS3564X3 NICE 7488-8 Carquest & I think Napa use 204BBAR as a part number. Carquest was inexpensive and close but they didn't have enough in stock, so I called the ag shop, they had the JD bearing for $5 each. JD Part# 9296

[dbf]

Thanks for the numbers Rick. Today, I pulled the arbour (the one that was badly siezed) out again and flipped the shaft around, top to bottom. The top bearing on all 3 arbours were in great shape, no noticable slop at all. I'm going to try this first and see how the deck performs. I'll check with my buddy at NAPA and run that (204BBAR) number by him. Be interesting to see if the numbers are the same in Canada. I'm also going to try and source a cross drive belt tomorrow. If I recall, the length is 41 or 42 inches. Can any one confirm this? I'll buy another Gates belt. It will be less than 10 bucks at a local rubber supplier.