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Charlieson

3416 conversion

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Charlieson
Im converting my 3416 to battery ignition. I did my 3212 a couple of years ago with no problems. I mounted the coil and condenser on the engine shroud. Attached the wire from the condenser - terminal on coil, ran wire from points to - terminal. Then I ran a wire from the Acc terminal on the switch to the + terminal on the coil. Next I put a push button starter in and ran one wire to the battery terminal and the other to the top post on the old coil. Voila, I have spark to the plug. Started tractor, but it ran rough. Couldnt adjust the miss out, so I shut it down and adjusted the points (.020). Put it all together, and no spark:(!. Checked all my wires, nothing. Got out my tester, with the switch on, I got juice to the points and coil, but still no spark. I then started checking wires again. I have continuity from the points, coil terminals and condensor to ground. I dont think I should have. I started checking the wires again. I found that the toggle switch that turns the lights on is the culprit. If I unhook it, everything checks out. It got dark before I could finish. My question is, should the points be grounded? If not, then I have to go back to the drawing board. The only other thing possible is if the coil went bad.

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D-17_Dave
Unplug the wire from the magneto that used to run from the mag to the points. The old mag may be interfering. That is if you already haven't. Otherwise, change the cond. Don't reuse the oem cond. It might not be rated to deal with the external coil. Use one made for 12 volts. Also, check the chargeing circut voltage. Over voltage will cause eccessive contact arking and burning of the points. If it's over 13.5 you may need a resiter coil or an external resister.

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HubbardRA
Dwayne, I have a B/S engine that I have been running for nearly 20 years with a battery-coil setup. You can use the factory points and condenser with no problems. Make sure you either use a Kohler (internally ballasted) or an external ballast resistor with an automobile coil. Run wire from points to negative of the coil. Positive to ignition switch. Points mounting screws should provide point ground. Your description of the way the engine was running indicates a condenser problem. Hooked up a Kohler once and forgot to put a conderser on the coil, since none is mounted with the points. It ran, but was very rough. Friend stopped by and asked where is the condenser. Added one and it ran beautifully. If the condenser is an open circuit internally the engine will run very rough, if it shorts out internally the engine will not run at all. Almost any automotive ignition condenser can be used to get it running, till you can get a factory replacement. The condenser housing must be mounted to ground and the wire can be hooked to the negative side of the coil same as the points.

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Ronald Hribar
I may have wrong picture of whole setup. If so ignore me. Why the push button starter button? Does motor have S/G or separate starter and charging system? Either way would not require a different starter button. THe old system grounded ignition to shut off tractor and new system should awitch off power to coil.

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beuce
I have a Homelite T-16 which is a the same as your 3416 that I just got up and running again after some electrical problems. Mine also has a external coil ignition. Let me share with you what I did. The white wire coming out of the ignition went to my magnito and was cut and taped off by the previous owner. Then someone put a toggle switch into the dash and ran a wire from the new coil to the toggle and from the toggle to battery power, with a flick of the switch the coil had juice. The negitive side of the new coil went to the points. I didn't like the set up because when I shut off the ignition with the key it kept running until I hit the toggle. In my case I ran a wire from the fiber terminal block mounted to the voltage regulator lugs to the + terminal of the new coil and eliminated the toggle. Now when I turn my key to ACC my lights, lift and coil have juice, turn the key to start and it fires up. Turn the key off and the engine stops. I wanted the stock appearance and also didn't like the fact that I had to turn on the key AND toggle to start my machine.

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HubbardRA
Ron, I wanted to answer your question about the pushbutton. On a tractor with a magneto, the accessory terminal is usually disconnected during starting. Thus if you hook up the ignition to the accessory terminal, there will be no power to the ignition when the switch goes to start. The push button will energize the starter without moving the key switch from the "on" position. I have run into this before, and there are several ways the ignition can be wired to cure this problem, depending on whether the original switch is retained or swapped out with one from a tractor with a battery coil ignition. 1. push button starter 2. change ignition switch 3. install Ford starter relay with ignition bypass terminal

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Charlieson
Well here we go again. I have my 3212 wired for battery ignition. I wired the 3416 the same way. When I hook the hot wire to the + terminal of the coil, I have continuity all the way through the points. I am starting to wonder if the coil is bad. It sounds like it has water in it when I shake it. The one on my 3212 doesnt do that. I checked my 3212 it doesnt, nor does it have continuity through when switch is in 'on' position. As soon as I get her running she goes up for sale. I'll see if I have another coil. ddh

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Ronald Hribar
I said I may have wrong picture of situation. And evidently did. I thought I understood the push button supplied power to coil. If the push button just ran starter, it would be okay with independant starter but was not sure if it would work with S/G. And I knew that it had to be a Briggs that he was converting, from magneto ignition. And that they ground out ignition to stop. I should have stated easiest way would be different ignition switch. But also maybe Al Edens kit would work also. If flywheel key was sheared, Am I correct in thinking that points would still be in time?

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Charlieson
Went back to drawing board and started over from scratch. I took a little emory cloth and sanded the points off, reran my wires, and bam shebang I got spark. Put it all together ans she started right up. I adjusted the points a little and she runs like a top. I dont know where the problem was, but it works now. Anyone interested in a 3416H? ddh

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