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Allis refuses to run


GWGAllisfan

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Today was the first chance I have had to work on my B-10, since the last day of November. It was a busy winter, just not one that let me do tractor maintenance. Of course since it rarely snows in Georgia, tractors are a summer thing around here. The attached link tells of my adventures in November. [url][/url]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=41959 Today I was trying to get the tractor to run. It wouldn’t start even when cranked for several minutes. Fuel poured out of the carb body. I took the carb off and reset the float level, checked form the leak around the main nozzle, and re adjusted. No luck. I then pulled the fuel line to make sure I was getting fuel. Because a non standard gas tank had been put on it, I removed it and put a “New” 101 tank I had bought, along with a new fuel shut off. I now had fuel at least to the end of the fuel line. Cranking it now led to less fuel drip but still a drip. I tried spraying starter fluid into the carb, but it didn’t help it to start. So far it still hasn’t hit a lick. I had previously checked spark, and it had spark, but I checked again. Still had spark. I cleaned the plug just in case. No help Unscrewing the needle valve on the carb, caused fuel to run out, but then it would stop. Should this flow until the tank emptied? Is it a sticking float? If I read the diagram right, fuel should pour out? So far I’ve had the carb apart 4-5 times, and no real progress. I’m desperate for ideas. I’m think it may just be a hopelessly bad carb and I need to by a new one? Those 392587 carbs that seem to be half the price of the 391071 ones look tempting.
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I recently had a very similar experience. You have fuel and spark, but what about air? My air cleaner was almost completely clogged. Just about all my engine was getting was coming in around the worn throttle shaft :( Now, from the sounds of it, your carb might need a good rebuild or replacement as well, but I would check to make sure that it is getting sufficient air. Wade
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The other side of the coin is that if the carb is sufficiently worn, it may not be able to develop the necessary vacuum to work properly during initial startup with choke closed. I guess that would be too much air :) Wade
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I took the air cleaner off so air is plentiful. I rebuilt the carb late last year, and dissambled and re-assembled it several times today. This thing is auch a mystery to me. These seem so simple but there must be some trick i'm missing
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Did you put a couple tablespoons of gas in the sparkplug hole? Sounds like no gas to me. If it kicks over the the problem is the carb. Did you replace the float seat in the carb body when you rebuilt? Did it match the one in there?
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The carb should continue to flow till the tank empties if you remove the needle. If your getting gas dripping into the lower carb body, then your getting gas. I'd change the plug. note on the carb, when repaireing it, did you get the venturie back in place correctly? Leaveing this laying on the tool bench will cause the carb not to vaporise the fuel and not run. An unlikely thing, but I thought I'd mention it. Most likely a bad plug if it fires good. A shourted plug will fire outside the engine, but under compresion load, it will shourt and kill the ign. Also, a weak plug won't fire good if it's flooding out from the exccess gas in the carb. While cranking on it, hold the throttle closed manually at the idle screw. By holding this closed, you stop the supper rich flow of gas into the cyl. drying the plug and it will eventually fire. Depending on how bad it's flooded will control how fast it fires and clears itself out. As it fires, and you open the butterfly up, do it slowly or it will reflood until the carb clears out.
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I didn't replace the float seat. Maybe that could be it, making the float action not be smooth? I didn't see a separate venturi. I'll try a new spark plug as well. Now that we have DST, I have time in the evenings to tinker... Wht's weird is that gas will drip out the carb body, then I drain the bowl at the needle valve and no more gas comes. Put the vlave back, carnk it and it leaks again. Seems illogical.
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It depends upon what float needle you put in Brass with a gasket in the seat or brass seat with gasket on the needle. You may have put the wrong one in for the rebuild kit.
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Check your head gasket and intake gaskets, You may have a leak and can't get enough suction to pull the fuel up into the cylinder.
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gas in the plug hole, if it fires then you have a carb problem. take a nail file to the points and run a business card through them to remove oil.
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