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Deck undercoating


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I searched the past forums and could not find any positive or negative answers on the subject of undercoating a newly reconditioned mower deck with a bed liner product. I have been looking at the do-it-yourself bed liner products like "Heculese" (spelling???). Has anyone tried these type of products??? I know that it can be rolled on and is supposed to resist impacts on a truck bed, but how do you guys think it would work on the bottom of a mower deck?? They advertise it being skid resitant. Do you think this would make the grass stick to it or wash off easier?? I believe they have some what of a textured finished when applied. I have never seen this on a bed so I hope someone has tried it on their truck or mower deck. thanks, Randy
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I think a good primer/paint job will buy years of service. Additives like this will extend the lives of your deck a lot.A paint brush application will last longer than a spray on. http://www.superiorgraphite.com/products/index.php?id_ctg=119
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I don't know what the good shops charge for a deck undercoating, but I've seen several of the cheaper coating kits peel off of the applied surfaces. IMO you get what you pay for when you buy a coating.
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Mack, I tried the Slip Plate stuff inside a snowblower. Was trying to find something to keep the chute from plugging and the auger housing clean. It worked okay, but was noticeable worn after one winter and gone after two years use. Maybe I didn't prepare the surface properly before applying it. But in researching the product I seem to recall that it says that periodic reapplication is required. One small spray can of Slip Plate was about $11. Since both silicon spray and Pam are less expensive than $11 for two years, I decide not to reapply the Slip Plate. /r David
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try looking at this post http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21432&SearchTerms=ez+slide
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I've done it on all my decks and so far so good. They've all lasted over a year with no failures. I just primed the deck after the refurb and sprayed it on out of a rattle can. As I said so far so good.
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I've thought about this for several years and called Rhino Lining, its a spray-on bed liner system. They told me that I needed to prep the deck, remove spindles and they would spray it for $75. But would not guarentee this application. It seemed to me a good deal, but never got around to it.
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I have used epoxy resin plus hardner --- brushed it on with a throw away brush --- seems to be working good.
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wasmeneh, did you use a spray on bed liner product or an undercoat?? jbird243, I had though about that also, but figured it would be more brittle with the occasional rock hitting it. They both sound like great ideas, I just haven't figured out which way to go yet. Thanks, Randy
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Well, I have observed over the years, what coat the underside with, sooner or later it will peel off. My thoughts are to flush the underside with water, and that will loosen up clumps and discharge them and letting the deck dry without grass. In the fall, mow dry leaves as this acts like a pummace to clean the deck and no grass will rot on it over the winter.
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When I was running the old Bolens 1050's the decks came with a hose fitting in them for cleaning them after each use. Worked really well.
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  • 4 weeks later...
You might give EZ-Slide a try. One green rattle can from Farm and Fleet should last you into the next decade. It is made for much harsher duty than your mower will ever see. Get out your wire brush and bring the deck underside down to clean grey metal. Provided you prep the deck properly one application seems to last a couple years. It does not seem to peel. It eventually just wears away gracefully. It does make cleanup a breeze.
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Most of the decks that I work on have rusted from the top down as much as from the bottom up. The grass that collects under the belt guard seems to dry slow due to the lack of air. But either way when ever you clean off rust try using OSPHO it a phospheric [spelling] acid compound used by the gas company to stop rust. It combines with the rust to form a hard black surface that is then ready to paint or coat. I have had good luke with it in all sorts of rusty tractor applications. Be carefull it's really nasty stuff and you don't want it on your clothes or skin. John
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POR-15 is a really tough coating. It is a brush on or spray on rock hard paint that is made to paint over rust. I had a really hard time, I mean a really hard time, sandblasting it off. http://www.por15.com/
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We used to use zinc chromate in the navy as a corrosion preventive. Maybe a primer. Been a few years since I worked on a corrosion gripe in the Work Center. My deck is 30 + years old and isnt rusted (a little surface). I dont think I'll live long enough to see it rust out. ddh
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I used Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and a coat of glossy orange paint under the deck of my 4212. Sand and gravel still play hob on certain areas but the rest holds up well for a season. I clean and touch up as necessary. About two or three times a year, I clean the top and bottom of the deck. Good time to check the blades and grease/oil everything. I also wax all of the exterior surfaces of the tractor/deck with automotive wax twice a year. The tractor and deck still have about 99.9% of the factory paint.
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The best deck undercoating I've found is a product named "395 Metal Preserver A, High Gloss Black" manufactured by: Ensign Products Co. Inc. 3528 E 76 Street Cleveland, OH 44105 Toll-Free: (800) 452-0019 http://www.ensignproductsco.com/ Phone: (216) 341-5911 Fax: (216) 341-9338 Email: ensignproducts@yahoo.com No priming needed lasts 2 to four years and penetrates the metal.
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