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beuce

Bouncing Tiller (garden tilled w/pic)

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beuce
I hooked up the tiller to my Homelite T-16 last night and man does that thing bounce when I try to till my garden. With my 3112v I can push on my lift arm for some down pressure to help eliminate the bouncing, but with the T-16 and cable lift I can't. First experience with this type of lift system, am I doing something wrong? Problem fixed, see my last post. Here is a not so good picture of the tilled garden

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beuce
OK good answers, I was hoping I was missing something :D With my 3112V I was able to bury the tiller in 3 passes by putting pressure on the lift handle. Maynard, you said an inch at a time, do you let the tiller "float" or do you set only let it down a certian height to get you inch? I made several passes (probably 10 or so) with the lift all the way down and really only got about 3 inches of good tilled soil. Thanks

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thedaddycat
If your ground is really hard, you might be better off to use a moldboard plow first to get things loose and then go back with the tiller. I have a lot of rocks to deal with here in Connecticut that would beat a tiller to death. The plow will pull anything up to about basketball size up out of the ground, then you can go back and till it a lot easier....

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tillerman
I really like my tiller. Most of the time I plow with the moldboard plow first if it is hard ground. This takes a lot of stress off the tiller and makes a better seedbed also. Your tiller and tractor will last much longer. I always try to conserve the machinery. Lots of luck, Tillerman

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beuce
Mack, I just got the tiller and it was the first time using it. I made a few passes and nothing was happening so I looked at the tines and sure enough they were on backwards [:0] So I switched them around last night, but it still doesnt cut real good. They are brand new too, the tags are still on them... daddycat, and tillerman, Hmmm another implement to add to my arsenal ;) maybe not a bad idea :D. Seriously though, I had absoutly no problem tilling the garden last year with my 3112v, 3 passes and the tiller was buried. I think it has a lot to do with the down pressure I could give by pushing on the lift arm. Can't do that with my cable lift :(! I guess I could put the other tiller on my 3112v, but I don't really want to do that....

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mowerman1193
Another reason FDT's rule...:D:D No really I think the dumbest thing they can do on these tractors (any brand) is to use a cable for the lift..Although I do like the lift quadrant on my 3415H as you can lock it into one of the notch's and get a little down pressure on the snow dozer blade...

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beuce
Mowerman, yeah I agree, but the cable eliminates beating my electric lift to death. I guess I can see the point of a cable for that particular reason... I do like my FDT, but I like my RBT as well. It is kind of a toss up at this point. Probably wouldn't have ever bought a RBT if it wasn't for it being a Homelite...

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D-17_Dave
A lot of the problem I think may have something to do with the moister in the ground and how hard it is to penatrate th etop crust. Most farms plow the crop leftovers under in the fall so it will rot and also allow the ground many diff. angle to let the wayer from the winter pennetrate the soil and get it good and moist. When it gets drie enough to work, it breaks up nicely and as it's pulverised creates a very good seed bed ready for planting. With the seed in the moist ground and the soil soft, it will cap over and hold the moister in and below the crust, aiding in seed germination and youg plant growth till a good root base can develope. So I guese the long and short of it is plow in the fall. But now with a hard thick crust, breaking through is imparative to being able to get deep enough to do any good. spring tooth chisel plow would do a fair job now too. Good luck, take your time, reap the rewards later. Dave.

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callwill
I've used my tiller on a 3212H and i has bounced when i try to go too deep and or too fast. I do not recall being able to put any down pressue on it with tthe rear lift as it was just that- lift only- the lift rod was actually two rods with a loop on each that allowed for free movement up in the down position.

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thedaddycat
Some of the earlier tarctors had nothing more than a straight rod that was threaded on both ends for a clevis. Some had a clevis on thefront end and the other end was bent to attach to the rear lift.

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vfd702
I got my 64 Landlord out today with the hydraulic lift. I went out onto some soybean stubble from last year. It absolutely pulverized the ground in 2 passes. I run it in the float position. When I had it on my 7117 with electric lift I saw no difference in the tilling performance as both tractors do a float. My ground seemed fairly hard. Had absolutley no bouncing at all. Not sure why yours would do that. ken

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beuce
Ok I feel like an idiot. Like I said earlier in this thread, the tiller tines were on backwards so I changed them around. Well I took them all off and put them bank on BACKWARDS :(!. I went out today and tried tilling, but this time I watched what was going on and realized it. So I changed them AGAIN this time the right way and low and behold my tiller works fine. Thanks for everyone who replied, like I said I feel like an idiot 8)

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