Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

  • Announcements

    • Kent

      Sign In or Password Problems?   10/09/2016

      If you can't Sign In, you need to reset your password.  Use the Forgot Your Password link at the bottom of the Sign In screen, and the site will send you an email to reset it. If you have an AOL email account, use the Contact Us link at the bottom of the screen -- AOL is intermittently blocking email from the site.
    • Kent

      Feedback Please!   10/28/2017

      See News and Announcements forum.
Sign in to follow this  
Tacey

Briggs Won't Shut Off - - - 11hp Vertical Crank

Recommended Posts

Tacey
I cut the grass this evening, and when I was done, I turned the ignition key to "Off", and she kept running! I pulled the spark plug wire off to shut 'er down. Anyone know what's wrong? I'm guessing a bad ignition switch. The model is a Simplicity 6011 Broadmoor II. Thanks in advance. Tacey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BLT
Could be a wire fell off. Check in the area where the throttle cable connects to the engine. This is where the ignition wires terminate. A wire might have fell off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
back40tj
Could be a wire but I'm betting a bad Ignition switch. Glad to see someone has the same tractor as me. A new ignition switch is only $6.00 or so! Mine came with an ignition ground switch to shut off the engine. There should be a test for the ignition switch terminals but I don't have one. You just need the ignition switch and and a Ohm tester. But I don't have have the exact test procedure. Maybe someone has on here the test you need.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tacey
quote:
Originally posted by back40tj
Could be a wire but I'm betting a bad Ignition switch. Glad to see someone has the same tractor as me. A new ignition switch is only $6.00 or so! Mine came with an ignition ground switch to shut off the engine. There should be a test for the ignition switch terminals but I don't have one. You just need the ignition switch and and a Ohm tester. But I don't have have the exact test procedure. Maybe someone has on here the test you need.
For six bucks, I'll just replace the switch. I don't own an ohmmeter, so I just start at the battery, and start replacing parts 'till it's fixed. I'm glad it's a Simple trACtor. :) Tacey PS These 6011's with the vertical crank Briggs have little following, so they can be bought very cheaply. Mine works very well, so I may start a collection of Broadmoors. Don't tell the wife, though! ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tacey
quote:
Originally posted by wasmeneh
Listen to Al, check the ground wire. If if off all the switch changing you do won't change a thing. Mike
One thing I do know, is that Al FORGOT more about these tractors than I have ever, or WILL ever know. I bought a new switch today 'cause the old one is getting all loose 'n' funky. Besides, those nice shiny new keys are too pretty to take back for a refund...;) Plus now I get to fiddle-fart around with the old Broadmoor's dash. Oh, the joy!!! Tacey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tacey
OK so I finally installed the new ignition switch. Now, the engine doesn't turn over at all! LOL All that happens is that the elecrical guage on the dash reads "- 10" when I turn the key to the "Start" position. So what do I replace now? :I Tacey Pretty soon, it would have been chreaper to take it to the dealer for fixin'... That wouldn't be as much fun, though... ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Simplicity314
The power drain/no start is likely an open or loose connection somewhere. or you have a hot grounding out. Of course, I'm sure it's wired correctly I have the 6008 and I have the same problem with it not shutting off. Haven't bothered looking into it because in the fall I'm tearing out the whole elec. sys and replacing it with a bare bones system--> battery to starter, ground and solenoid breaker. That's it--don't need the headlights. All that safety stuff is coming out. The friggin harnass on that thing is thicker than anything in my pickup (ok, so that's streching it, but that electrical system is a little silly for that little tractor--or riding mower), and tracing it is a pain, especially how it's wraped and run through the plastic. 'Dem tractors ain't as simple.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tacey
quote:
Originally posted by Simplicity314
The power drain/no start is likely an open or loose connection somewhere. or you have a hot grounding out. Of course, I'm sure it's wired correctly I have the 6008 and I have the same problem with it not shutting off. Haven't bothered looking into it because in the fall I'm tearing out the whole elec. sys and replacing it with a bare bones system--> battery to starter, ground and solenoid breaker. That's it--don't need the headlights. All that safety stuff is coming out. The friggin harnass on that thing is thicker than anything in my pickup (ok, so that's streching it, but that electrical system is a little silly for that little tractor--or riding mower), and tracing it is a pain, especially how it's wraped and run through the plastic. 'Dem tractors ain't as simple.
The switch is wired into a connector, so I'm sure it's wired correctly. The switch sure looked like it was the factory original. This tractor has run great since I got it 3+ years ago, from the original owner. The wiring all looks to be in good shape. I have used it pretty "rough", that is, lots of mowing, snow plowing and snow throwing, and lots and lots of hauling. I guess a wire could be worn or loose. Thanks for the feedback! Tacey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Simplicity314
Yeah..who knows? My wires are still nice and shiny too for the age of the machine--but they're well protected! It's so much trouble getting to them. So how does yours do in the snow? I was always curious about that--I use my '64 LL to plow. Do you weight it? I won't ask if you use chains! Mine 'll spin on a 2% grade of wet grass untill I shift my weight over the spinning wheel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JBLACK
Hi, did you use a simplicity switch? I have found that sometimes even though the plug on the back matches, the aftermarket switches are not the same. Check the wiring diagram for your tractor in tech pubs and it will show you where each position on the switch should go via a letter and color code for the wire.I was a bone head and did it twice! then spent the money for oem and had it done in short order. hope my mistake helps. John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tacey
quote:
Originally posted by Simplicity314
Yeah..who knows? My wires are still nice and shiny too for the age of the machine--but they're well protected! It's so much trouble getting to them. So how does yours do in the snow? I was always curious about that--I use my '64 LL to plow. Do you weight it? I won't ask if you use chains! Mine 'll spin on a 2% grade of wet grass untill I shift my weight over the spinning wheel.
I use chains plus a home-made weight. It pushes snow very well. I have photos in the Gallery on Simple trACtors. These little tractors suit my needs very well. Tacey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tacey
quote:
Originally posted by JBLACK
Hi, did you use a simplicity switch? I have found that sometimes even though the plug on the back matches, the aftermarket switches are not the same. Check the wiring diagram for your tractor in tech pubs and it will show you where each position on the switch should go via a letter and color code for the wire.I was a bone head and did it twice! then spent the money for oem and had it done in short order. hope my mistake helps. John
I used a Genuine Simplicity switch I bought from the Genuine Simplicity Dealer. The plug only lets me install it one way. Tacey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Al
Hi, There several Simplicity switches. They are not interchangeable. If you get one for a Kohler powered tractor, and plug it in you may fry the ignition module and melt the points or both. BE ABSOLUTELY SURE THE TERMINALS ON THE BACK ARE SHAPED, oriented AND LOOK EXACTLY LIKE THE ORIGINAL SWITCH, IF ANY DIFFERENCE DO NOT PLUG IT IN. The exception is the new replacement kit switch Simplicity has to replace a couple of older number switches. READ and HEED the instructions CAREFULLY. We change a lot of ignition modules for people that buy a 5 terminal aftermarket switch and it is the wrong one. There about 10 or 12 versions of these switches that all plug into the 5 terminal plug and they are not interchangeable. As I said about the 2 spec number Command 25s we had in the shop 1 in the JD400 and the other in the Deutz 1920. If we swapped the engines and plugged them in and hit start it would destroy the ignition modules in both. The different spec engines are pinned out differently, but the plugs are the same. The same is true of these ignition switches. As for not shutting off, try grounding the Kill terminal on the side of the engine. If this kills the problem is in the tractor. If it doesn't, the problem is in the engine and the kill lead probably came unplugged from the ignition module. On the 4, 5 and 6000 tractors the switches are nounted in the plastic dash. They must have a ground wire running to the switch or it can't kill the engine. With the tractor off, disconnect the kill wire from the engine. Take an ohm meter and measure from ground to this wire. Should be LESS than 1 Ohm. If not plug the lead in the back of the socket on the switch to the kill wire. Still open Measure from the ground terminal on the switch to the frame. Should be less than 1 ohm. OK Then measure from the M terminal on the switch to the G terminal that has the little tab to the outer housing. Should be nearly 0 ohms. Al Eden

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tacey
quote:
Originally posted by Al
Hi, There several Simplicity switches. They are not interchangeable. If you get one for a Kohler powered tractor, and plug it in you may fry the ignition module and melt the points or both. BE ABSOLUTELY SURE THE TERMINALS ON THE BACK ARE SHAPED, oriented AND LOOK EXACTLY LIKE THE ORIGINAL SWITCH, IF ANY DIFFERENCE DO NOT PLUG IT IN. The exception is the new replacement kit switch Simplicity has to replace a couple of older number switches. READ and HEED the instructions CAREFULLY. We change a lot of ignition modules for people that buy a 5 terminal aftermarket switch and it is the wrong one. There about 10 or 12 versions of these switches that all plug into the 5 terminal plug and they are not interchangeable. As I said about the 2 spec number Command 25s we had in the shop 1 in the JD400 and the other in the Deutz 1920. If we swapped the engines and plugged them in and hit start it would destroy the ignition modules in both. The different spec engines are pinned out differently, but the plugs are the same. The same is true of these ignition switches. As for not shutting off, try grounding the Kill terminal on the side of the engine. If this kills the problem is in the tractor. If it doesn't, the problem is in the engine and the kill lead probably came unplugged from the ignition module. On the 4, 5 and 6000 tractors the switches are nounted in the plastic dash. They must have a ground wire running to the switch or it can't kill the engine. With the tractor off, disconnect the kill wire from the engine. Take an ohm meter and measure from ground to this wire. Should be LESS than 1 Ohm. If not plug the lead in the back of the socket on the switch to the kill wire. Still open Measure from the ground terminal on the switch to the frame. Should be less than 1 ohm. OK Then measure from the M terminal on the switch to the G terminal that has the little tab to the outer housing. Should be nearly 0 ohms. Al Eden
Al, you're the greatest. This would make a nice addition to the "Tech Tips & Articles" section. Tacey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tacey
UPDATE: BLT and Al were right on. A bolt on the engine shroud, and the ground wire it was holding on, rattled loose and fell off. The switch, since it is mounted in a plastic dashboard, depends on that wire to ground out the engine to shut 'er down. Therefore, she wouldn't shut off. The new ignition switch I bought was the wrong one. There are 2 different switches for that model tractor. I must have asked for the wrong one at the dealer. The tractor is back to running great. Thanks for the help guys. Tacey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×