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Paul_B

16HP Briggs into a 7117/7119

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Paul_B
I have a 16HP briggs in my 3416H that's fresh. What would it take for me to put my briggs into a 7117/7119 simplicity chassis that originally had a kohler? Is this easy or a bolt in and go?

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Brent_Baumer
Never done it but have seen it before. Pretty sure Smilin Sam had one he changed out as you describe (only it was a 900 series AC) a few years ago. Complete with starter/generator. I would not think it would be a problem. The early 7116's had briggs in them from the factory. Brent

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PhanDad
I put a 16 HP Briggs in a GTH-L which had the 17 HP KT engine. The Briggs will bolt right in. Needed a different driveshaft, ignition switch, and wiring harness modifications. The Briggs I used had a S/G; locating the voltage regulator wasn't real easy (mounted it under the gas tank support. I wrote a post about the swap, but don't have the url for the post atm.

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Leroy
quote:
Originally posted by PhanDad
I put a 16 HP Briggs in a GTH-L which had the 17 HP KT engine. The Briggs will bolt right in. Needed a different driveshaft, ignition switch, and wiring harness modifications. The Briggs I used had a S/G; locating the voltage regulator wasn't real easy (mounted it under the gas tank support. I wrote a post about the swap, but don't have the url for the post atm.
If you posted it in here? there may be some hope you could repost it. I have an old 16 horse that i was going to install in my 7117 but i dont have a drive shaft nor a wireing diagram. I wasn't sure if i should go with a lovejoy connection for the driveshaft.

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BLT
I think opposed piston engines have a deeper oil pan to crankshaft centerline dimension and then you will somethow you will have to raise the engine mounting plate on the tractor. Then you will also need to redrill the mounting plate, as it will also be a given that there are no extra mounting holes provided. I have a 7116 with a Briggs 16 HP engine that was supposed to be a Kohler or maybe a larger size OP engine . From what I understand, the was a fire that caused Kohler not to ship engines and B & S engnes were used to fill the gap. All of the wiring diagrams can be downloaded at the Simplicity web site, it isn't that difficult. You might be able to use the same driveshaft as you can back the engine in to meet the exsisting shaft. My $0.02

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AC808
I have a 912 that i received with the Kohler in pieces in a box. I mounted a 12 B&S. It bolted right up, both to the frame and the crive shaft. The ignition switch is slightly different, just swapped it for one that was on a tracrot with the Briggs motor. I then made a bracket above the motor to mount the regulator. Wired it up and away it went. Wasnt a difficult project at all...

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HubbardRA
I have one tractor that came with a B/S and now has a Kohler, and another tractor that came with a Kohler and now has a B/S. Set the engine on the mounting plate and bolt it down. If the driveshaft is too short, then use longer bolts and make adapters from tubing or a stack of washers. This works fine. Hook up wiring, throttle, fuel line, and exhaust and you are ready to go. Usually a weekend job.

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RayS
Leroy, if you still have the rubber puck or spacer that went between the engine and driveshaft all you need is a a driveshaft out of a 7000 series or even a 3112H. That is what I have in my 917H that i put a 16hp Briggs in and have not had any problems.

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PhanDad
Leroy, here's the link to my post about the GTHL conversion: http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=24432&SearchTerms=gthl And a second post with answers to some questions: http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=24668&SearchTerms=gthl I've sent several members a detailed explanation of the wiring modifications with marked up wiring diagrams and other pics. If you'd like a copy, let me know. The files for the scanned diagrams are too big to post. Here's a pic of where I installed the voltage regulator: [img]/club2/attach/phandad/Rebuild_0001.jpg[/img] As Ray stated above, the driveshaft from a "late model" 7116 will fit using the rubber rubber coupling; that's what I used. I think it measures about 19 1/4" long. The driveshaft for the KT17 was about 17" if memory is accurate. You can also use a driveshaft from an older sovereign without the rubber coupling. It's a bit longer but I don't know the measurement.

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SmilinSam
You guys know of course that the 7117 and 917 tractors were all pre drilled for any one of the three types of engines available. Single Kohlers, Single Briggs and twin KT series Kohlers. They all drop right in without anything but the bolts. The voltage regulators mount best just like they did in the 3400 series tractors, That being inside the cowl using the three bolt holes already there behind the Hydro control lever assembly. Attach with three bolts and spacers. When I have them I like using the little square regulators with the Armature tab underneath like used on the 728/738 type broadmoors and the like. I put those on top of the generator bracket and use most of the existing kohler wiring rather than running new wires.

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PhanDad
Here's a pic (courtsey of the daddycat) of the voltage regulator mounted in the cowl that Sam talked about above: [img]/club2/attach/phandad/SovOldDash.jpg[/img] I tried to mount the regulator there, but with the sundstrand hydro, the neutral safety switch is mounted near the same spot; the GTHL has the starter solenoid mounted in the cowl; there just isn't much room as can be seen from this pic of the stock GTHL cowl/dash area: [img]/club2/attach/phandad/Dash_0001.jpg[/img] Maybe if you relocate the solenoid, you could get the regulator in there. Sam, how do you get it to mount in there?

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RayS
On my 917 I have my volage regulator mounted just like in the picture above and the solinoid is mounted to the top of the engine like on myHB 212. I also relocated that circuit breaker in the bottom picture.

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HubbardRA
On my 713S the regulator is mounted under the dash as shown above, and I mounted the solenoid on the engine near the S-G. On my 716H I mounted the solenoid under the dash, and the voltage regulator is mounted on the engine. Didn't have a manual, just wired it up the easiest way and mounted components where I thought they fit best at the time.

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SmilinSam
You would have to use a different solenoid than whats in the picture above. An older model that curves downward and has the studs out to the sides.

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