Ryan Posted May 10, 2005 Posted May 10, 2005 I went to use my 3212v the other day and the hydro-lift was not working. After looking around I noticed the clevis came unscrewed from the cylinder. Has anyone used lock tite when putting these two together? How did it come unscrewed? It is pretty weird. Thanks, Ryan
KVANDY12 Posted May 10, 2005 Posted May 10, 2005 Ryan I don't think I'd use lock tite to put them to gather. If its a bolt and nut I'd get a lock nut and put back on, lock tite could be a problem if you ever had to remove the cyc. sometime. Mine is connected with a pin and a cotter pin.
HubbardRA Posted May 10, 2005 Posted May 10, 2005 Ryan, If it is the clevis that screws onto the rod, then I would use the low grade locktite. For those who don't understand, this clevis screws directly onto the cylinder rod and does not have a locknut of any type.
toad270 Posted May 10, 2005 Posted May 10, 2005 I would try not using loctite But if I did it would be removable (BLUE) loctite #242
Ryan Posted May 10, 2005 Author Posted May 10, 2005 It is the front clevis, no nut. I will use a low-grade lock tite when I put it back together. I think I am going to have to take the dash off. I should have seen this coming because the lift seemed to go over center. Thanks for the information!
oldone Posted May 11, 2005 Posted May 11, 2005 on the cylinders that I have worked on, the nut that holds the piston on the rod had lock tite plus the clevis end. so I put it back on too.
Kent Posted May 11, 2005 Posted May 11, 2005 I'm still trying to picture how this could've happened, going from my poor CRS memory. The cylinder can't turn -- the hoses prevent that. The clevis can't turn -- it's pinned to the cross-shaft (i.e. rockshaft).... I think it must not have been threaded on well to begin with...
GregB Posted May 11, 2005 Posted May 11, 2005 Since there is a thread clevis at one end, does anyone know what the correct length of the cylinder should be? Either fully retracted or fully extended. I put the hydro kit back on my Big Ten, it works better now that I shimmed the relief valve about .035". That was the amount of the notch worn into the taper. But I would still like to make sure that the cylinder is the correct length. Anyone have one apart and can measure the length? Thanks, GregB
HubbardRA Posted May 11, 2005 Posted May 11, 2005 Kent, The rod and piston are free to rotate inside the cylinder. There is no keyway to prevent this.
Kent Posted May 11, 2005 Posted May 11, 2005 quote:Originally posted by HubbardRA Kent, The rod and piston are free to rotate inside the cylinder. There is no keyway to prevent this. Rod, I was thinking the rod was pinned on the other end, but I guess not...
oldone Posted May 11, 2005 Posted May 11, 2005 Heres a picture I took a while ago that might help. John
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