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Ryan

Hydro-lift question

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Ryan
I went to use my 3212v the other day and the hydro-lift was not working. After looking around I noticed the clevis came unscrewed from the cylinder. Has anyone used lock tite when putting these two together? How did it come unscrewed? It is pretty weird. Thanks, Ryan

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KVANDY12
Ryan I don't think I'd use lock tite to put them to gather. If its a bolt and nut I'd get a lock nut and put back on, lock tite could be a problem if you ever had to remove the cyc. sometime. Mine is connected with a pin and a cotter pin.

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HubbardRA
Ryan, If it is the clevis that screws onto the rod, then I would use the low grade locktite. For those who don't understand, this clevis screws directly onto the cylinder rod and does not have a locknut of any type.

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Ryan
It is the front clevis, no nut. I will use a low-grade lock tite when I put it back together. I think I am going to have to take the dash off. I should have seen this coming because the lift seemed to go over center. Thanks for the information!

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Kent
I'm still trying to picture how this could've happened, going from my poor CRS memory. The cylinder can't turn -- the hoses prevent that. The clevis can't turn -- it's pinned to the cross-shaft (i.e. rockshaft).... I think it must not have been threaded on well to begin with...

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GregB
Since there is a thread clevis at one end, does anyone know what the correct length of the cylinder should be? Either fully retracted or fully extended. I put the hydro kit back on my Big Ten, it works better now that I shimmed the relief valve about .035". That was the amount of the notch worn into the taper. But I would still like to make sure that the cylinder is the correct length. Anyone have one apart and can measure the length? Thanks, GregB

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Kent
quote:
Originally posted by HubbardRA
Kent, The rod and piston are free to rotate inside the cylinder. There is no keyway to prevent this.
Rod, I was thinking the rod was pinned on the other end, but I guess not...

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