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Tillin with a hydrolift .... new experience

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Guest
I've only tilled with a 3012V and I now got the 3112H working with my tiller tonight. Side note: Besides getting that running, I also checked my fluid level in my hydrolift and found it was low... the problem I was having with a slow lift. You kinda need a lift when using the tiller. Well I rushed and put the tiller on and didn't add the belt stop, thus the clutch would not stop the tiller from turning. So I still tried to get out to the garden to till. My results the first test were not so good. First, when I lowered the tiller it put so much pressure it stopped the tiller and I had a burning belt smell... Whoops. Went a little easier (yes, I know to use float... still didn't do it), got to move forward and it tilled some, then ... watch out... take off, the tractor starts driving with no brakes working! So I quickly raised the lift (good thing I got the lift working... even better I didn't try the hydrostatic HB112 without brakes either!). So after all that, I gave up and parked her for the night. I am going to get out there and go through the system a bit more before I go for my next test. My first thoughts have been, when will my poor old 3012 get fixed! :)[:0] Anyway, thought you all might be interested in me sharing a little Simplicity Tractor Fever on tillin with a hydrolift. If you have any constructive suggestions or thoughts on some things I should check out on this or try in my operations, let me know. Thanks!

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Kent
Michael, It sounds like you may need to adjust the float position on the lift. You shouldn't have experienced the "runaway" if the float was working correctly... There's an adjustment for the controls specified in the Owner/Operator manual for the hydraulic lift. Also, how tight do you have the belt adjusted on the tiller drive? It needs to be tight enough that the belt does't doesn't slip in dirt, yet will slip if you get a rock or root hung up in it. This adjustment make take a little experimentation...

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dav
I also got out and tilled today. The Big Ten is running pretty good and the weather is cooperating...finally. I had put new O rings in the hydro about a year ago but haven't used it that much since. Last Spring I got a few what I call 'Nantucket Sleigh Rides' when the tiller went down, the rear wheels went up and the tiller moved the tractor. I thought the weight of the snowblower was the reason it raised very slowly. The tiller causes the same problem. Today I found that the piston leaks a bit. When I put the lever into the raise position, the drive pulley almost stops. Takes a bit of practice to get it right to lift without slipping or stopping.. I guess that as I dismember the 2110 for parts to rebuild the 101, I will swap hydros and re rebuild the ailing one. I did find out that I have the hoses backwards. Both hoses are identical so I think I may try to find the shorter hose and install it. I heard that the contractors on the BIG DIG in Boston had to use vegetable oil in equitment in case a hose blew, it would not contaminate like regular hydraulic oil. I wonder how it would work on a tractor? Tomorrow I hope to finish the ground work by using the tool bar and spades to make the rows. Tried to mount the bar in the dusk but it seems I might have part of it assembled upside down. Something to ponder as I get around the second cuppa in the AM.

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Guest
Kent/Dav- thanks for the replies. I was using the float the first time, but I was starting in a bad location which caused the tiller to bind and stop turning. So in brief, the two major rules of operation: 1) Be prepared to lift the tiller immediately or turn the key; i.e. the brakes will not work. 2) Always watch the tiller; backup immediately or lift the tiller if it binds. Otherwise, the only other change is that I can't backup like I did with the 3012 Manual lift. It may be due to loss of immediate control with the hydrolift. Oh yes, the garden is now tilled and the tiller works great.

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BLT
Ever since I got used to the float position, tilling is now easy. I kept bending my lift rod and made three spares. Now the spares are getting rusty. I get no Nantucket rides, no burning belts and nver have to back up, just hoist up tiller back up a bit and drop it in float, then go forward. What a difference for the good side.

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Guest
BTW: Mechanically, does anyone know or understand how the float position actually works?

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John_RI
The float position allows the implement to ‘float’ up & down with the terrain. As an example, a front snow plow has to be able to ‘float’ relative to the tractor in order to maintain contact with the ground. What the float position does is to allow the hydraulic fluid to freely flow back and fourth from one end of the lift cylinder to the other, allowing the implement to rise & fall to conform to the terrain. This is accomplished with a valve position allowing the flow from one end of the cylinder to the other. The spring CENTER position on the valve closes off flow to both ends of the cylinder to lock it in that position. I agree with Kent that it’s a good idea to use only enough belt tension as is necessary so that when the tiller comes up against something hard, the belt will simply slip.

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Guest
John, Thanks for the reply. That's exactly how my machine is working. Except, if I am not fast enough to react to the tiller stopping, I get smoke :)! Edited for two more questions====== So is the float position the same for the up/down side of the hydrolift? Thus is the float position function the same on both sides so that depending if a front or back implement is on, you have a float position. Or does float on one side favor either lifting or dropping the implement?

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