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Advice-Mower Deck


firefoxz1

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First this is a 7012 deck (1690252) and I have finally got around to redoing my it. How important is the baffle, with the rollers, being against the deck? Mine is rotted across the top where it touches the deck. It is still sturdy enough where it bolts fast so should I add a strip of metal along the top or would it effect the cut if I left it alone? I already have it all apart for cleaning and painting. Also how hard is it to find a shoot to bolt on? It seems all the left discharge decks I see have no shoot ext. on them anymore.
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I dont know the answer to the baffle question but I belive you can still get the deck shoot new and I seem to see several on Ebay over the last year or so...
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I'm thinking the baffle helps in the clipping control department without the baffle the clippings may be confused and endup causing a grass twirl instead of expulsion. With a little navel jelly and a bit of wire brushing, maybe a job that Ol'e welder in a tube "Jb Weld" wouldn't mind helping on. Can't hurt to try it. I would smear it on thin for first coat on all surfaces and allow to set per directions. This action sets up a firm base for the second coat to adhear to. The next coat should be applied to one side of the deck with a rubber coated finger, a glove works, so that you have a fillet kind of JB Weld, along the suface that needs repair. Allow this to set up per instrustions. Warming the area up will ensure all the hardner is dry. Then add more JB Weld to the other side as it will readily afix to the material that has been pushed up through the deck and cured. finish as desired.
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OK. The Deck itself is in great shape with no holes only a few pits, I have no problem with the deck shell only with the w shape baffle that bolts to it. Thanks, I think you're right Leroy about the ejecting the grass clippings though, it would probably effect the airflow around the blades and not throw the clippings out or not lift the grass right. While it's apart I might as well add some metal to it. Kevin, I have been looking off and on on E-Bay and have not seen one, I could probably make one if I knew what it even looked like on this deck. I don't think they had any major bends in it. I quess I should try to find one and then copy it for my 7112.
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One thing you might consider is "armoring" it. Adding on a piece of heavy (3/16" or so) flat stock across the outside of the front vertical shell. That seems to eliminate most of the flexing encountered when the leading edges of the deck strikes something tough in action. This in turn will protect the arbor mounts from the all but inevitable stress cracking which kills most decks.
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Hi, That baffle probaby don't cost over 20 to 25 bucks. I would just buy one and be done with it. If you are mowing and it is not fastened at the top it is only a matter of time and it will be in the blades. If they tear it up and pieces hit someone 25.00 wouldn't amount to a drop of spit. Al Eden
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Thom, If you only have pin holes, then I would weld them up, or patch with a metal plate. The baffle needs to be there to get that Simplicity cut. If the entire baffle-roller assembly is loose, then it needs to be refastened to the shell, even if you have to make some type of bracket(s). I have a deflector for a 48 inch mower. It is not on my tractor now, so I could take pictures for you. You will have to wait till weekend. Getting ready to go to airport to go to a business meeting and will not be back till late Friday.
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Thanks for the advice. I added a strip of steel across the top of the baffle plate so that it will be against the deck. You know, sometimes you don't stop to think that a part may be a reasonable price and still available as Al mention (thanks Al), had I bothered to check I probably would have just replaced it instead of messing with it as I have to wait for the top pulley hub I ordered. I just checked, $17.80 a Jacks. I worked on it maybe 1.5 hrs and say my time is worth $40/hr that equals $60 and it still don't look as nice as a new one would have.
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